Bilstein 5100 on OME Coils Advice?

So I was curious if anyone has the same suspension set as me, because I have a question regarding mine. I’m a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4. I have Bilstein 5100 rear shocks and will be combining them with Bilstein 5100 Adjustables, on the lowest setting, with Old Man Emu Coils in the front. Everything thing else suspension wise is OEM. Now I’m curious if this levels the car out or if there is a slight depression in the back, or however it might look. I’m curious because I am thinking of order add a leafs to put on around the same time and would want to order them. Thanks y’all!

 

I'm asking because I'm not 100% sure. Why do 1st gen owners want 5100s with aftermarket coils up front? Is it an Access Cab thing? Billy limits the recommended perch and aftermarket springs add lift at the lower perch? What's the difference between taller aftermarket springs and OEM springs at a higher perch?
And if you want 2.5" up front, are Billlies the best choice? I have a 2WD DC and never understood why Bilstein limit's AC 4WD to 1.1 inches of lift with OEM springs.

 

I'd say order the front stuff and see how it sits before buying anything else. Could save you some money in the long run.

I got 5100's and ran stock TRD coils on 3rd notch because it was cheap and I'm a cheap ass and wanted the truck level. I think it rides fine. Drove 4200 miles across the country like that and my only regret is not putting the 5100's on the back too. I think there is definitely better stuff out there but it suits my needs well enough. In hindsight though I should have bought something already assembled but otherwise good bang for the buck.

 

Basically, this. But in less words, using your OEM coils, you're going 3rd notch to get the lift, the ride is harsher. Using taller ARB/OME aftermarket, you're going 1st notch to get the lift and the ride is buttery smooth.

For those of us riding 60%+ pavement, it makes a difference. Especially on shitty, high-traffic in-town roads that see lots of abuse and less money thrown at them.

Without a clearer avatar pic or an AC/DC/RC designation in your truck details or you including it in your post, I can't tell: Are you in a DC, or an AC, or RCLB w/cap?

Also, have you chosen which of the four ARB spring options you'll be using?

I generally agree with Nick, with a Caveat. Depending on your cab and spring choice.

If you're going OME 884, buy the fronts and hold off on the rear, unless you're buying from BilsteinLifts, who force you to buy either a 1" rear block or 1.5" Icon AAL with their pre-loaded front/rear 5100-OME combo.

If you're going OME 885, depending on your cab and drivetrain (you're 4WD so safer from having squat a 2WD will have), you're going to NEED the rear lift.

If you plan to go 886 or 887, you absolutely will need rear lift. With the 886, you'll probably need 3" out back. If you go 887, you may be able to get away with 2" - 2.5" in rear.

 

To answer a few things, I have an Access Cab and also have an ARE Camper shell. And I am using the 885 springs along with the 5100s. To be more precise about my situation, I already have a set of Toytec Add a Leafs(not installed) that provide 1.5” in the back, but asked this question on the forum because I’d hate to put all my shocks and struts on and not need the leaf springs, and their 30-day return will of expired.

 

Ah. Makes sense.

I actually think your best option is to check out @Dave8699 's truck. Here's a link. He's running 5100/885. AC/4WD/camper shell.

Pics of his result here. I'm not seeing any mention of AAL or blocks out back, but he does mention having bags for towing.

If it were me and it was easy, and you know you'll never go higher, maybe return? Not sure. But I hope this info helps.

 

Here's the rub, preload doesn't compress the spring at ride height in it's resting position, the weight of the vehicle does. If you preload a spring so much that the truck doesn't get lower after the tires touch the ground when you lower the jack, and further compresses the spring, you went somewhere extreme. Preload changes where the spring sits on the shock. Not how the spring handles the weight of the truck.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/preload-adjustments-on-oem-fit-coilovers/

 

Thanks for that. His truck essentially has the same suspension additions that mine will, apart from some upgrades on his part that I don't see as necessary. Sent a message asking him about his rig. Also, probably would have been valuable to mention I have drawers in the back of my truck about 70% of the time with work tools and camping gear that weigh about 300-400 pounds. Starting to think the leaf springs will be utilized.

 

4-wheel drive's front CV joint axle angle between transfer case and wheel increases with lift. Bilstein's recommendation stays in line with OEM's maximum tolerance for axle angle. Outside of that they become liable for stating their part will safely function within OEM standards, and any complication or breakage to drivetrain will not occur due to the aftermarket part.

2 wheel drives obviously don't have that issue with front suspension lifts.

 

And there you have it. Thank you. I was talking to a guy who went long travel on his 4WD today and was lamenting that very issue - different gen though. But, what's different about a an AC and a DC 4WD up front? I guess geometry, I imagine all of the suspension parts are the same, maybe not.

 

I think it's really important point to add on this: Majority of folks would say the chart you posted is only true for stock-length coils and 5100s.

If you're using a lifted coil like the ARB OME 2884 - 2887, virtually everyone I've seen warns only to use the 1st circlip setting, never the 2nd or higher.

 

Yes, but I'm still curious what is different on the AC 4WD vs. DC/CC 4WD to warrant different settings with OEM.

 

Definitely a good question. I think I recall it was empty_lord who'd mentioned previously that the frame was significantly different from the RC/AC, and I'm guessing it has something to do with the wheel/axle placement, cab placement or who knows? Can only guess.

It may just be me, but in side shots I've seen of the DC versus the AC, it looks like the front wheels sit a little farther forward in the wheel on the AC, slightly off-center, favoring the front. Could lend some credence to the former wild-ass-guess.

 

You’re probably right. I’m pretty sure the AC actually has more room for uptravel in the rear leafs than the DC for example. Probably is a frame thing