General Supercharger Thread.

When you say reverse style are you saying vent hole pointing back or forward?

 

Nice! PM me details

 

The ones that point back towards the windshield. Supposed to help *PULL* air out of the engine bay.

Here's one example I researched for my M3: https://trackspecmotorsports.com/bmw-e46-m3-hood-center-louver-vent

This kit includes the center heat extracting vent for the BMW E46 M3 only.
Designed specifically for M3 hood lines and low pressure zones behind the radiator and above the wheel arches.

• Optimized louver design to maximize extraction flow velocities within a vehicle in motion
• Reduces under hood pressure delta to reduce front end lift and increase net vehicle downforce.
• Significantly reduces under hood temperatures by extracting heat and allowing fresh cold air to enter the engine bay.
• Maximize life of engine accessories by reducing overall operating temperature.
• Increases dense, cold air flow through radiator to promote lower coolant temperatures.
• Louver backbone design maintains hood structural rigidity.
• Contoured to fit your specific hood curve.

 

None to really PM. Just shoot them an email and ask! I haven't gotten a price because I'm still deciding how I'll move forward with the intake kmillen@stillen.com

 

We are thinking about the same thing then.

Unless channeled, a big portion of airflow typically goes out of the bottom of the engine bay; skid plates could limit and redirect this. A few brands make hoods for Tundras with the vents built in; I think only one of them has front facing scoop which channels to the CAI area. The others are relief vents.

Without sensors to measure, it is hard to tell how much pressure builds in the bay but I don't think there is a lot to alleviate by venting but could be worth it if you were optimizing this factor.

Out of the few that have them here on these forums, I don't think anyone has reported temps but they tend to complain about dust build up (indicates some improvement in air flow)

 

Been following this thread and all the discussions for quite some time. What are your thoughts around me getting rid of the TRD dual exhaust and swapping back in a factory muffler/tailpipe? I know I lost some torque that was definitely felt when I moved to the TRD (prior to the Magnuson install). The drone is bearable, but I've been thinking about possibly going back to a factory muffler to regain the lost torque and then moving down a bit in tire size when the time comes to further assist in performance and reduce interior cabin noise. Would swapping the exhaust back to stock and moving down from a 295/70/18 to maybe a 33" tire be anything worthwhile performance wise or not worth the hassle for a minimum gain if any? I spotted a take off factory muffler/tailpipe on Cragislist for $50 so I was considering it.

 

I learnt on this forum - once your are blown, exhaust don't matter....bigger the better. @dirtydeeds

 

Ok, thanks for the insight and $ saved.

 

This may inform your decision on CAI @nobodyintexas :
https://youtu.be/1O4kmds3_u8

 

Comments on remedy for dual torque loss:
Any torque loss felt after installation of TRD dual exhaust?

At best you'll regain what you lost with the exhaust but I doubt it will be significant.

Tire weight is more important than diameter. Lighter is better but depends on your application if it is even feasible to do so.

 

Did you know

if my intercooler pump is actually on. My intake temp is 132-ish

if the damn relay ain’t working it will be 167

that’s how much the HX Works

Now I go back in this thread and order that new relay

have a great weekend

Taking the plaid on a road trip

 

Agreed on the fact that once you have a supercharger that dual exhaust torque loss is no longer a thing. I too have TRD duals. As far as tires, I just went from 32 lb wheels with 69 lb tires to 27 lb wheels with 65 lb tires. Also the diameter shrank from 33.4 to 32.7”. Hard to say on full throttle acceleration if it’s noticeable by the seat of my pants, I’m sure it would put down a couple more hp on a chassis dyno. I have noticed better gear holding on hills though.

 

Ordered

thx dude

 

No problem! Mine has worked flawless so far. Don’t forget to swap the included 30amp fuse out for the correct 10 amp in your excitement to change it! Lol

 

Here’s what is weird

When it faults. my Amber backlights are not on. My damn main fogs are on

that’s how I caught it

I Shake the relay and it all goes back to normal

it never ends….

 

You can try rotating it 90 degrees to see if it keeps it from sticking.
Edit: Also dampen with a rubber pad.

 

Another observation

leaving my house the temp was 159

I thought, damn heat soak

then it stay that temp till I got to the main road, went about. A mile

then

I hit a bump and the temp dropped to 129 in about 20 seconds

that’s how good it works

 

Knock video:
https://youtu.be/G5bJlFHKOX0

 

Tells me the HX is doing a big chunk of the work to lower charge temp. Edit: relative to Ambient

 

agreed.

and it works fast. it was quite awesome to watch the temp dropping.

I guess ~129 is the thermal wall.and/or capacity limit for the HX.

It was 96 degrees yesterday.

 

Living in Texas, if you were crazy enough about it I bet you could use 80% distilled water and cut the antifreeze portion down to about 20% and still have enough freeze protection but have much better heat transfer. Water is a lot better heat transfer medium than glycol. Glycol also takes more pump energy to move around the system. Here is brief article on the subject that lays it out quickly and concisely. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/glycol-or-water-coolant/amp/

 

Wow check this out too. I would assume the Harrop could suffer from a similar issue as this magnuson (both tvs2650). Sounds to me like the design and intention of putting the sensor after the intercooler is good for reading the real IATs, but only if they did a proper job of precisely locating it. There’s evidently a solution in the way of these 1” thermal spacers which helps getter a better reading. They also create more of a thermal barrier between the hot engine and the blower housing which keeps the blower from getting as hot. I gather that our actual IAT is likely cooler than our sensors are telling us it is based on their location. The problem with this is if it says it’s too high it can pull more timing and thus make less power. On the flip side the ECU thinking the IAT is hotter could be safer as it will pull timing it advance and likely prevent knock. Either way, the reading being accurate would probably be the best of both worlds. Maybe if there was enough interest Prospeed would make them for our trucks. https://fiinterchillers.com/product/magnuson-2650-tub-spacer/

 

I hear you

but the speed in which the HX pulled the temp down from 156 to 129 tells me our system is quite adequate

it also tells me it works exponentially better when the f’ing pump is on!!!


I’m gone give the water thing a go. See what happens

I’m willing to bet the 129 degrees is fairly accurate. And your comment about reading a higher temp is safer. Is comforting

129 iat on a 97 degree day is kosher with me

 

Nice numbers. Sealed box is probably better if you aren't constrained by air flow.

Took the truck out on a spirited drive last night. Definitely hit the +40 degree over ambient threshold.

Can't say how much is pulling air from the bay and how much is the S/C coolant soaking up heat. Based on your numbers I would bet it is pulling about 50% or more from the bay (without a larger or second hole).

Someone mentioned Water wetter to me; not sure if you can run it through the intercooler.

 

Just an FYI,, Whipple has updated their pull down tab on the years now to include the 2021 Tundra,, 72 hundred and some change and they are also saying you add the flash tool. -200 if you choose no flash tool. Plus it says the supercharger comes with new injectors.

 

Too bad it took them so long. Whipple was my first choice, even had a significant end of the year deal on one. No tune meant no joy. If even possible, probably would have needed a 90 to 100mm pulley to run it without a tune (until they got it sorted) lol

For anyone interested in Whipple, I recommend signing up to their site's newsletter for periodic deals. You can do the same with the local speed shops in your area if you don't plan on doing the install yourself. I've seen deals as high as -20% off in some cases.

 

my memory...

did we agree - way back when - that the whipple, while possibly producing a cooler charge, lacks a smidge of low end TQ compared to the Roots/TVS style?

 

I think it was @ViktorG that made some comments about the Whipple.

 

Whipple has done some rearranging in the last couple years from what I read if I remember correctly. That being said they do state running low RPMs theirs run without boost and produce better city/highway MPG or something to that effect??

I’ll look and see if I can find their exact words so I can phrase that better.

here it is, they still have it up on their site.
The all-new system features Whipple’s massive oversized air-to-water intercooler for unmatched cooling capacity, the massive 2.9 liter Whipple twin-screw supercharger that reaches 99% volumetric efficiency, 102mm built in inlet, high flow intake manifold and industry leading power potential. The unique bypass system offers less than 1hp of consumption during cruising for excellent fuel economy.
So I imagine there might be the slightest whatever but doubt if it would be that noticeable?? But who knows, I have not run one or the other so I can’t say. I hope that will change some day. I have been waiting for Whipple to join the fun for Tundras.

 

That’s how it looks based on comments from the Prospeed guys who install all 3. I’ve seen videos of other cars like 5.0 mustangs and camaros comparing the larger Whipple to the TVS. Usually the smaller TVS blowers give a stronger punch down low, and despite being smaller often can make higher peak numbers as well.
Whipple strikes me as the Ford Motor co of superchargers. All talk with playing the numbers game and claiming to be the biggest and best performing, but for many applications they are not. I think there’s more to picking the right supercharger for your vehicle than largest displacement. Larger doesn’t necessarily mean better IMO. A smaller blower will be more spun up at lower speeds which is better for snappier torque at the lower RPMs. I guess I just figure if you can have more low end torque, why go with a Whipple that makes less but also doesn’t make more up top either.