Westcott lift rides harsh!

What psi are you running. Load e should be around 30.

 

30?
You'll destroy those tires in a month.

I run 44 front, and 40-42 rear.
-99

 

as mentioned, anything with a bushing should be done on ground with truck weight. Doing it in the air can cause incorrect torque, making those components tight. Increased wear on the bushings and could also make the ride worse.

 

I was thinking the same thing.

my lord, do NOT run Load E at 30 psi, they will melt off.

I run 40-45 cold psi

 

My fear is its gonna be too stiff as my e rated ridge grapplers already firmed the ride considerably at 47psi

 

Pre - loading a spring doesn't change it's rate. It changes the shock travel starting point.

 

this^

 

Right, but will require more force to produce the same amount of travel as the non preloaded spring. Therefore making it more harsh feeling.

 

That's not the case. Pre-loading is a bad term. Adjusting your coilovers or adding spacers does compress a spring when it's off the truck. So does putting the spring on the shocks in the first place. When installed, the springs compress more than you loaded them under the weight of the truck. Unless, you either loaded them so much the shock is at full extension under the weight of the truck. Or, you loaded them so much the shock has inadequate droop or extension left, you haven't added harshness because of preload. You added it because you changed the spring position on the shock, and are now limiting the shock from doing its job in the range it wants to live. Maybe @AccuTune Offroad will tell me if I'm wrong.

 

Fun subject, and we have a few tech articles that go into detail on the subject I will link below.
https://accutuneoffroad.com/preload-adjustments-on-oem-fit-coilovers/
https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/tacoma-4runner-coilover-preload-faq/

For the OP, I don't think I saw which type of kit this was. Pretty sure this is the spacer that gets installed above the spring on the coilover and not on top of the coilover. A preload kit, not spacer lift. If thats the case, you are essentially adding preload to the spring. Adding preload is really just making the shock sit higher in the overall travel, like mentioned above. See below for a good visual. This could be causing the shock to top out much quicker than it should, resulting in a harsh ride. I wont address the E rated tires, since others already did that, but that is also a common cause for rough ride quality. And also correct above, adding preload does not change the spring rate. A 700lb spring will require 700lb of force to compress the spring 1 inch, no matter how much preload is added. That same spring will require 1400lb of force to compress 2 inches... so on and so forth.

 

Hmmm, this is not how it works on mountain bike shocks that I've tuned. Maybe there is something I'm missing on vehicle application. The stroke of the shock does not extend like the diagram. So if you have a 500lb spring with 2in shock stroke, you require 1000lb of force to bottom it, with no preload. If you preload the spring 1/2in (250lbs), then it will require 1250lbs to bottom out. So more force is required for a given amount shock travel, making it feel harsher.

 

It sounds like you’re doing with your bike what most people think they’re doing with their trucks when they add preload. If your spring is shorter than it was before, after the weight of the bike and the rider are on then yes it would get harsher

 

The spring would not be any shorter if the preload force is overcome. Thinking about it more, it should only adjust your sag point. My experience on a bike has been firmer ride with more preload, but perhaps that's just the loss of negative travel creating the illusion.

 

The only thing I am saying is that preload does not affect spring height or rate, unless you limit it with your shock extended length, or do it to the point that you compromise shock travel. Or do other stupid shit. I don't know anything about mountain bikes.

 

installed on my platinum now with avs and i'm happy to say that my ride isn't harsh. i've only driven about 75miles mix street and hwy since install. very happy rn.

18x9 +18 toyo at3 35x12.50r

 

I had the Westcott 3/1 installed on my Limited TRD, swapped out the factory 20in TRD wheels with 18x9 +18 offset wheels and 35x12.5 x18 Toyo Open Country AT3 D rated tires. I thought it was pretty stiff also over small bumps so I called up Westcott. Its wasn't terrible but def felt like there was too much pre load but I tried to account for the heavier tires making some difference over they factory SUV tires. Turns out the shop that did the install re installed the rubber isolator that fits under the spring into the Westcott kit. They insisted it needed to be in there and didn't want to take it out. Well they ended up taking it out and I can tell you even though it's only maybe at best 1/4 difference it made a noticeable difference in ride quality.

 

Having similar issues as OP. Like @jamesP the shop also left the rubber bushing for the two front. Westcott states that it needs to be removed and the shop is stating that removing the rubber bushings will not affect quality at all. We will see. Keep you guys updated.

 

This (looking @ picture) is how they let you drive out of there???

Never seen such a worse-than-amateur installation.
Take it back, have them do it right........but are they even capable?
-99

 

Westcott said the rubber bushing is causing the spring not to sit properly on the collar causing the spring to rotate but the shop agreed to fix the issue even though they said said there shouldn’t be metal to metal contact. Hopefully ride quality improves after the fix

 

They should let Icon, Fox, King, Bilstein (and everyone in between)...and especially Toyota itself know then, b/c they all have been doing it wrong for decades apparently!

Ex: OEM Toyota TRD (no idea what year, but Tundra; pic from this forum)

 

I've got a spare set of Ironman4x4 coil-overs I'm looking to sell. They ride great. You can even take the front sway bar off and not have any more body roll in corners than a completely stock setup..

Just sayin..

 

I wouldn't expect too much a change in ride quality.

 

Granted 30 psi would give your a comfortable ride, your tires probably won't last a year or 12K to 15K miles before it's time to replace them.

Most 35" E Load Rated tire usually would have a load index of 121 or 123. Depending on the trim and package, the GVWR on the Gen3 Tundra is between 7,000 lbs and 7,400 lbs. With that said, 30 psi inflation would be under-inflated. You'll see uneven tire wear with the shoulder area wearing out after than the center of tire. With a 35" E load rated tire should be 34-35 psi, give or take 1 pound of pressure.

 

If you're running their 35X12.50R17 or 37X2.50R18 you should be okay at around 35 psi cold. At 35 psi, they'll be able to handle a 7,400 lbs truck.

 

WTF kind of shop did you go to? Almost everything I've ever worked on has the spring just sitting on the perch. Some cars have rubber spring isolators, but those are on top of the spring, not under it.

 

After removing the rubber isolator the ride is much better and taking bumps and dips without that harsh “dropping” feeling. Now it’s at a stiffness that I was expecting with a lifted truck and much more tolerable. Still definitely not “factory” considering I’m on 37’s.

 

Wow my tires are way over inflated then, currently sitting mid to high 40's. MPG is awesome, ride is harsh though

 

I was sitting at 40psi on my toyo open country at3s 35x12.5x18 (D rated) and dropped it to 35. The ride improved a little, but still rides like shit IMO. Can’t wait till some shocks become available.

 

I just now looked, there is no rubber spacer on mine between the spring and collar. Was kind of hoping there was so it would explain some of the trash ride I now experience. Womp Womp

 

I just got my leveling kit installed and I am having the same issues!!