General Supercharger Thread

Cool, thanks for the explanation y'all!

Definitely need a stickied thread on supercharger faq/tips and tricks

 

I'd like some education on this intake air temp thing.....

My intake temp is the reading from the Harrop sensor - I'm assuming.

82 degrees oppressive Houston humidity
cold start this morning
intake temp = 90
on my 3 mile drive to the hwy - it slowly creeps to 110.

on the hwy - @59mph - it creeps to 132 & stays there. I was in boost maybe twice (on ramps are a weakness)

the questions:
why is the intake temp so high? normal?

shouldn't SMOOTH HWY driving settle it to a few degrees above ambient?

or is this a simple heat soak issue?

I remember Holdener saying we get ~1-2lbs of boost in the bypass mode. I doubt that would cause a big heat gain.


I stand ready for education.

 

I can give a basic answer based on my limited understanding of thermodynamics. I’d say the 2 biggest factors driving up the heat exchanger temp are:

1. Air passing through the rotors is still being compressed regardless. The rotors are doing work on the incoming air which increases the pressure and temperature. This is just like in my world of air conditioning, the compressor adds “Heat of compression”. The supercharger operation is nearly identically to that of a commercial AC screw compressor in fact, it just compresses air instead of refrigerant vapor. Sure this air may be getting bypassed through the bypass, but any air entering the cylinders still has no other path in aside from going through the rotors and is therefore subject to heat of compression and temperature rise.

2. The HX loop is routed through a hot engine bay so it’s going to pick up a few degrees on it way from the front mount HX to the blower HX. While minimal, even the coolant pump is adding heat to the fluid as it performs work on it and moves it through the system. Since the system is using the ambient air as the final medium of heat rejection, it’s never going to be anything but a bit warmer than the ambient air. Like the phrase: You can’t get blood from a stone.

 

I would check your inner fender, Lance one of the project managers at National Speed is definitely aware of enlarging the hole. Not sure if they do it automatically or leave it as a customer request. The enlargement of the hole was a result of the original intake sucking in too much engine bay air and ProSpeed came up with this solution.

 

Well said, stock is actually 3.5" ID.

 

Definitely need to change the name of the thread, I have both Magnuson and Harrop.

 

He managed my project.

So, check the inner fender not the engine bay wall? Or are these referring to one and the same.

Reading the message nags posted. It read like you can do a SABM or enlarge the current hole.

 

One in the same, for your purpose just enlarge the hole, I might add a screen of some sort. The fender liner should protect it from water.

.

 

Well I installed front glass and no liner. Found out the hard way that I need a liner. I added a prefilter in hopes of keeping water out but still got water in it from our drive down from Oregon in the rain. Filter was completely soaked. So having a liner made or cover.

 

Thanks. I may just cut a second hole like SABM and call it a day.

I think running the intake to the grille will cause issues based on ViktorG's opening comments during his girthy 5" intake build. I have too much crap going on up front right now anyhow, and I really don't want to mod the airbox itself.

 

I think this nails it. Someone mentioned the rotors themselves get hot too.

 

for the Hombre's with boost gauges:

how often are you in boost?

what are the minimum conditions to cause boost?


@Silver17 @snivilous


and yes...I'm gonna get a damn boost gauge.

 

My understanding is at a certain throttle position and so much vacuum the bypass valve is closed so all the air is forced through the rotors and boost starts to happen. So essentially it's all based on throttle position. If I'm on the interstate at 80mph and there's a decent grade then I might get into boost by one or two psi, if there's a good headwind I might get into boost but usually just kiss it where it reads 0psi (I assume this is around the time the bypass valve is closing, so vacuum is going to zero and boost is beginning to start). So normal cruise control driving it's rare to get much into boost. For around town I have to get on it decently well to get any boost, like probably 70% throttle I'd guess?

I'm also at 5500ft elevation, and when I go down the hill (like 2500ft elevation) it's a lot easier to enter boost. The blower will make more boost at a lower elevation, and it also seems to enter boost earlier in the throttle range. At sea level it's really easy to enter boost, like the range of throttle with boost is a lot longer because it can make more boost (so can make it earlier, because it can make it more easily...). I'm in boost everyday I drive it though

 

So I've been doing a ton of reading and looking into Viks build and tests. I'm thinking of upgrading the pump that comes with the maggy kit to the aeromotive pump. I plan on doing smaller pulley and would like the peace of mind. Any thoughts? Either the aeromotive 325 or 450. Pulley size I plan on ordering is the 2.30 griptec. Or do we think the included pump is fine?

 

I think the included TRD pump was shown to be around 195 LPH and the TRD injector flow needs at 255lph. I would think the 325/340 LPH pump would be fine. I also plan on doing the same 2.30 pulley on the maggy

 

Yea that's what I gathered also. Do you have the part number for the 325?

 

This is the one I've been looking at

https://www.extremeterrain.com/deatschwerks-tundra-in-tank-fuel-pump-340-lph-9-307-1026.html

 

I would go with a TiAutomotive 267 (Walbro 450), that way you have room to upgrade the injectors without needing to upgrade the pump again.

 

I emailed Stillen and asked about a version of this for he s/c. They don't have anything, but if anyone is near Costa Mesa, CA they'd be willing to look over truck to review it.

 

That would be sweet

 

This is the pump (DW 340) that comes in the Harrop kit that is adequate even for stage 2 with 650cc injectors and an 80mm, probably even 75mm pulley.

 

Why do harrop pulley's go by mm and maggies use inches? been bugging me lol.

 

This, do the Walbro 450. Viktor had me upgrade from the 340 Aeromotive since he said it wasn't gonna flow enough with a smaller pulley. About the same price for either too.

Harrop is Australian and Magnuson is from the US I believe.

 

https://aftermarket.tiautomotive.com/projects/f90000267-in-tank-fuel-pump/

Looks like this one here.Noted and adding it to the list lol

 

Like snivilous stated above, Australian vs American units of measure.

 

Do you have to modify the basket or make any other changes to use the walbro 450? I was curious about the flow of the pumps so I was playing with a fuel pump calculator. For 550whp it’s coming up with a 274lph requirement at 43psi for gasoline. 600whp requires 299lph. Is the idea to just have a lot of headroom left over when sizing? Even at 600whp my DW pump should be capable of 14% more flow than is needed, and 24% more at 550whp. I’m nowhere near 600whp but i wonder if that’s enough head room to get it to that point. How much extra flow do you want available?

 

ProSpeed recommended drilling additional holes "a couple inches up from the bottom." I drilled out the stock inlet to 3/8" and drilled 3 additional holes in the basket 2" from the bottom.

 

Here is the enlarged fender hole that ProSpeed cut. While I had the truck in for a touch-up tune they mentioned needing the hole and I let them cut it while they were tuning. When I originally bought the intake they didn't mention the hole being necessary.

Note: The two holes the the right are me relocating the grounds back to the fender from where ProSpeed moved them to

 

Was the restriction only noticed at WOT?

 

Yes, I believe that's what they said, with the scaled MAF it needed more flow and I didn't even have the SABM