What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yearly leather deep clean and conditioning ... done!

 

I did a wash and my semi annual wax job, you know the drill, wax on - wax off.

 

Stretched her legs out on a quick camping trip. I seriously need to clearance these 35’s before the next trip

 

Next up on the list ...

Took the dog out for a run around the park.

When I was cleaning up slobber in the back, I noticed this down the inside of the rear window, passenger side, ran my finger thru it to confirm .... yep, at some point a single stream of water leaked in from the outer seal. Guess my rear window drain is/was clogged or overloaded at some point.

​

So I took a minute to clean things out.

If you pop the roof rack seal rubbers from the rear window surround, you can clean the drain. That rear window surround trim is hollow, it actually acts as a channel to route water from the roof rail provisions, around the outside edge of the window trim, to finally exit out of a drain at the base of the window. If you carefully spray water from a bottle into the entry spot I'm showing below, you should see it drain out of a small divot drain you'll find near the bottom corner edge of the rear window trim (see pic). If not, you may want to clean your window surround for drainage. Here's a picture of the drain process, note the drain divot:

​

I sprayed mine with Microban/water mixture, then took some .065 round weedeater line that's helpful with clearing out sunroof drains, and ran it down into the sorround until water was flowing out the bottom nicely.

​

Oh damn, almost forgot, tired dog tax!

​

 

Oh and @alb1k revisiting a previous conversation in this thread...

I got some camper shell clamps to play around with this idea of a no-drill saddlebag setup. I think this could legitimately work. I didn't have a bag with the right strap to make it happen, so rigged a cinch strap just to show the general thought. Main purpose of the clamp is to offer up a stable slot to thread a bag's top strap through. (clamps weren't quite tight enough in 2nd pic and pulled in, but you get the idea)

​

 

Very slick. How will you prevent swinging?

 

Thanks @Sunnier for the recommendation, @des2mtn for the input as well. This looks like it will work very nicely. CALI RAISED sounds like a cattle farm, so I just got the CALI version.

 

If I used a canvas bag, it won't matter, I don't think. I dunno. Was just kicking around ideas. If nothing else, now I've got a spare set of clamps in the event I ever get a cap

Ah! When I originally saw this, I thought it was your hitch plug light.

 

Nah - that one is still in there. But - I do need to yank that If I follow one of these CA/AZ boys and girls into the orange zone so I can have a rear recovery point...

 

Kicking around ideas - and since you are drill adverse. If you had a rigid molle panel of the right size, or aluminum that you cut to size or something similar...It seems to me you could clamp it at the top and have some downward pressure to keep the bottom from moving around. A pressure fit with some rubber at the bottom to minimize movement?

 

Truck’s heading in for paint Wednesday, so I removed the fender flares and rear bumper in preparation:

 

Keeping original color?

 

Yes, gonna stay black, which is my preferred vehicle color. Obviously makes the paint job easier as well. Getting close to the end of the makeover. Paint, new color matched flares and rear bumper, then the new rims and tires go on and hopefully it’ll be done (and my parts warehouse/garage will be empty).

 

Stuff all painted and mocked up. When new gaskets and the unichip cable get here I'll start tearing my truck apart.

 

Where's the problem area that making you want to repaint the whole truck? Looks great in all your pics.

 

This seems more specific than what I've seen before about cleaning this out. I need to do this on mine at some point.
@shifty` could you put a link to this post in the definitive leak thread?

 

Hood is starting to bubble and pit. Various other scratches and dings that don’t show well on camera but are clearly visible in person.

 

Any plans to rebuild the S/C? Or did it have super low miles.

 

Done.

 

PS - I updated my reply with more info and a picture that may help. Credit where credit is due, PHM deserves props for enlightening us all on this one, and also on the rear slider drain (link). I intend to do a cleanout for my rear slider drain also, I'll take similar pics and link it to the leak thread.

I truly suspect my previous owner had issues with the rear window not draining correctly, it leaking may've been the last straw that had him fed up enough to trade in the truck. When I bought it back in 2017-2018, the previous (2nd owner) barely had it for 5-10k miles IIRC, then traded in, which I found odd. The plastic inside trim piece at the lower edge of the slider had been popped off, I found it in the center console.

I'd also like to find a suitable replacement channel felt for that rear window. Not sure where to start on that one. Maybe if I can find a glass shop with an assortment of seals I can pull the upper or lower channel felt and try to find a comparable piece.

 

Gonna remove the side molding and paint over that? I know if i ever repaint my truck im definitely getting rid of those!

 

I’ve gone back and forth, but I think I’m gonna keep it. Going to paint it all, though, and get rid of that grey line in the middle of it.

 

Worth every bit of effort to weld shut all the holes. Probably the thing i like most about my rig when I see it next to others.

 

Yea it seriously looks so much better, ive seen one in person where the guy did that and it looks so clean. I did however paint my black ones to white to color match my white truck and it definitely hides it.

@TravisJr , yea getting rid of that stupid gray line and making it all black will look a lot better.

 

@Dave8699 I couldn't find a build thread for you (maybe it's my ineptitude), but I'm curious since you're in the apparently-exclusive 5100 + AC/4WD/V8 club: Do you have a current side shot of your truck? Just wondering where your stance has settled out with the 5100/885 combo (and with what rubber).

I'm still in analysis paralysis whether to go 5100/884 or 5100/885. I don't necessarily need the extra 0.5" - 0.75" front the 885s would offer on an AC/V8/4WD truck. I've seen how good the 5100/885 looks on @empty_lord 's RC/4WD truck (maybe a tad taller than I'm hunting), and I've also seen how crazy-goofy-squatty the 5100/885 combo looks on AC/2WD trucks. Hence my curiosity to see where you're at with yours.

 

I did 2885 with OME struts on my 2001 AC and I got close to 4 inches of lift. I'd go 2884 since you aren't looking for the most lift and you can always use the 1st notch if you want just a little bit more lift.

 

What you say is consistently what I'm reading here, at TS, and two other forums:

• OME struts + OME 885 = 3" - 4" lift, almost always. 4" for a non-DC 2WD. 3.5" if you have 2WD DC or 4WD AC/RC. 3" if you have 4WD DC.
• 5100 + OME 885 = 3" lift for AC 2WD. 2.25" - 2.5" for any 4WD platform, with 4WD, DC closer to 2" and RC closer to 2.75"

Numbers vary depending on mileage/age of existing OEM suspension.

Also, the difference in "actual" lift varies significantly whether you're [4WD vs. 2WD] and [DC vs. AC vs. RC]. Seems AC/2WD/V6 owners have issues w/serious squat running 885's regardless of OME or 5100 strut, here's one AC/2WD/AC example with 5100/885, they would've truly benefitted from the suggestion to go 5100/884, they'd be closer to levelled. I see a lot of DC owners speaking definitively about how much lift a guy with an AC truck will get. (that's not aimed at you)

I've read repeatedly the OME kit is notorious for under-stating actual lift numbers, for whatever reason. OME says 2.5" for their 885 full kit, but that's apparently only what you'll see with the heaviest possible cab + drievtrain (DC+4WD) and only if the truck is also sporting a winched/armor bumper, and other added weight. Reality is, everyone else needs to expect their result to be +1" over their listed height if they go full-OME kit (which I won't).

I've searched, heavily. Probably going on 40 hours already this year, hunting pics of AC/4WD trucks (specifically) running 5100/885 or 5100/884. Nobody has the 5100/884 combo. A few have 5100/885, but only a fraction have before/after side shots.

Unfortunately, a lot of the guys with AC/4WD opted for non-Bilstein coilovers. @bmf4069 is running Toytec. @jImmegart is running King 2.5. @FirstGenVol is running Icons. That's just from hunting here. I think @Dave8699 may be one of the few running 5100/885.

 

Question for u guys. on Coastal Offroad - are there any discount codes, coupons available or do they ever run any sales?

I've definitely settled on them, just trying to time my purchase accordingly

Thanks!

 

New lower ball joints. Old ones had a lot of free play after 240K miles and my tires where looking scrubbed on the outsides. Replaced a noisy axle bearing that’s been slowly getting louder for years and put some new shoes on my 2000 AC. I can’t believe how quiet she is now!

 

Installed a bedrail on one side, installed the EZ Lift tailgate bar, and got the front and oil pan skis plates mounted. It makes a big difference in closing the tailgate, but wish it was a little more low-profile. Not going to complain much though for $22. Really pleased so far with Skidrow plates. Seem to be quality.