Help!!! Truck kept running when I turned it off and took the key out, now I can't start it!

I don't know where to start. I was driving earlier today and noticed the tire pressure light was flashing, not solid like it does when the one tire gets low. Then the light went solid. So, this isn't the problem. Later today, I turned the truck off, took the key out, and the engine kept running. I couldn't shift, but the engine was on with the key out of the ignition. After maybe 10 minutes, it turned off. Fast forward a few hours. The alarm went off and there was a loud rapid clicking noise from the engine. It was sitting there, just in the driveway for the night. I opened the door with the key in the door because the fob wouldn't open it. I popped the hood and disconnected the battery. The clicking is obviously not happening now but I don't have a vehicle now. I'll ride my road bike in to work tomorrow. Any ideas?!? I'm in trouble and don't know what to do. The truck does not have remote start.

 

Park it outside? Rats chew some wires?

 

It's parked outside but nothing like that. It's a 2008 with 95,500 miles and I just got it 3000 miles ago.

 

I dunno weird electrical shit usually goes hand in hand with chewed harness lol

 

Yeah. I'll look into it but if anyone else has any clue, please let me know!

 

Disconnect the battery for an hour and then reconnect and try

 

I know you said no remote start, and I believe you, but that is the EXACT thing my dad's 2018 4runner did right after a remote start install so that is immediately where my mind went. We disconnected the battery left it for 10 or so minutes reconnected the battery and it has never happened again

 

Make sure it doesn't have some kind of aftermarket alarm system/remote start installed in it that is throwing a fit. Look for a brain box somewhere under the dash.

 

Stuck starter??

 

Good idea. I'll check for that under the dash when I get home today. It was a rainy 19 mile bike ride this morning but at least I got a good workout. I know the battery was testing low, could that have something to do with it?

 

Yes, low volts or a battery going out will cause all sorts of issues with a Tundra. Load test the battery and have it checked/replaced.

 

I do know it tested low so I'll definitely replace it since it was recommended when I had it checked out. I'll also check under the dash after work.

 

Alright lets look at this from a big picture. Truck started fine and operated normally (except for the TPMS Light). Not sure if that is connected yet or not.
Stuck starter would not keep the engine running for 10 mintues, I am not seeing strong evidence to support a bad battery yet but maybe. I do see evidence of the truck conflicted in thinking if the key is present/ignition on or not. Wireless door locks not working, alaram going off, engine running but not able to shift ect.

I lean much more toward ignition switch and/or relay malfunction based on what you have described. (The guy above mentioned similar problems with newly installed remote start system. A remote starter just bypasses the ignition switch to make the truck think the key is in it really. A broken or stuck ignition switch would have the same effect.)

The ignition switch shown below in the red box has two arms (two seperate switches inside of it). The grey ACC wire on AM1 is what controls the shift lock to the transmission shifter. The fact you could no longer shift gears with the key out leads me to belive this part of the ignition switch is working properly.

AM2 inside the igntion switch is where I am looking. The black wire on IG2 leads to the IG2 Relay and then to 3 fuses (10A INJ, 7.5A MET, 10A IGN). IF this part of the switch broke of stuck open it could keep power going to these fuses even with the key off. These are the fuses that power the igntion coils, the insturment cluster, and engine control modules. Everything you need to keep the engine running.

The fact you mention a fast clicking noise is intresting. Need to isolate where that sound is coming from. My assumption is that is could be the IG2 Relay (smaller red box in photo) coming on and off due to the relay going bad or the AM2 in the ignition swith being broken. If you can hear it again try to trace the source. Maybe inside the engine fuse box, certian side or corner of the fuse box?

Get your multimeter and check for voltage on fuses (10A INJ, 7.5A MET, 10A IGN). If the key is off they should have no power. If the key is on they should have 12V+. If you hookup the battery and measure voltage on these fuses with the key off, somthing is broken the igntion switch or the relay is stuck closed. You might try measure voltage while turning the key on/off multiple times. See if it ever hangs and the fuses stay powered up even when key goes off.

At least this is where I would start.

 

Wow that’s a pretty detailed troubleshooting post! Not my thread but thanks for that

 

Yeah, thank you so much for that detail. Your idea does make sense to me and I will try to check all of this out. Thank you (and everyone) for taking the time to help!

 

My truck did weird shit like this right when the battery pooped out after only 1 year.

 

Put a new battery in it and send it.

 

Yeah it does seem like it would be a good start since I know it was recommended to replace anyway. Thanks for that!

 

The computer controls almost everything on these trucks. It sounds like your computer is confused. I would replace the battery no matter what as a weak battery is hard on a starter. That includes making sure the battery contacts are nice and clean. Low voltage could mess up the computer so maybe you'll be all set. I would get a good scan tool (buy or borrow) and check to make sure there aren't any stored codes. It's been awhile since I've used it but Techstream (Toyota's software) may have a reset command to clear out any bad data.

 

So, I had the truck towed into the local Toyota dealer. They're telling me that it needs basically all new wiring, totaling $14,400 with parts and labor. I thought he was kidding. I'm getting a second opinion but I'm sick to my stomach. The problem is that the previous owner apparently put in an aftermarket windshield and didn't seal it properly. Is anyone aware if this can be returned to the New Jersey dealer? I've had it 2 months and have put on maybe 3-4,000 miles.

Toyota says it needs part wires:

82111-0C700
82141-0C082
82142-0C080
82161-0C270

Crazy, hey? I have no words...

 

Hmmm replace wiring harness because they got wet? Sounds fishy to me

 

Proof Toyota doesn’t know what’s wrong. They just want to replace all the wiring for $15k. They are assuming if we just replace everything it will fix it’s self. I assume they are saying the wiring got wet because the windshield and it’s now all bad?

Im willing to bet it’s a simple problem just hard to find and isolate it.

Did you get a volt meter and check for voltage on the fuses as the key goes on and off like I mentioned above?

 

Sounds like water leaked in and got some electrical connections wet. Now they are corroded and Toyota's answer is always going to be replace everything. You could check the carfax and see if the windshield replacement was paid for by an insurance company. If so the name of the glass company could be listed. Also the insurance company could cover it if subpar work was done.

Before buying new harnesses I would call a few junkyards. I'm sure you could find them used. Swapping harnesses isn't a fun job but it can be done by almost anyone. It'll just be a matter of removing the dash to get at them. I would do it myself before paying that kind of money. Another option would be to get a junkyard harness and cut and splice the wires near the connector. If done right, solder and heat shrink, it would last just as long as the original harness.

I would ask for more information. Exactly where has the water been leaking in and where the damage is. Also is anything else damaged? Water can lead to rust, mold, and mildew.

 

I didn't check it yet. I have the truck going to a smaller shop that I trust to get a second opinion. If that doesn't work out, my neighbor will help me with the volt meter. Thank you again and I'll keep you updated.

 

So, I took it to the smaller shop and a day later I got a text that the Tundra was fixed and that it was $542. I thought it was a mistake so I called them back and asked what's up. They said the moon roof drain was plugged and water was backing up into the electrical. They fixed the connections that were bad and we back! Thanks everyone for the help. Hopefully this helps someone from paying a $16,400 bill that would have had the same problem again, lol.

 

It's always nice to have a mechanic you can trust!!!!

BTW...I dislike moon/sun roofs. I have passed on vehicles because they have them and the issues that can happen when older.. My wife loves hers.

 

1982Dude, I was wondering if that would be the case for a 2013 same model?? I am new to this forum and have been checking all day on ideas, advice, suggestions. My truck is doing something similar, got a brand new battery, checked sensors, and I'm looking for advice before I take the next steps of taking it to the local Toyota Dealership.

 

I'm curious what wires were damaged from rainwater getting in. Sounds like the problem I am having now. Any ideas where I should look?

 

I had that problem, my alarm went bad. Try unplugging the alarm module. That fixed mine.

 

Interesting, I’ll check it out. Thanks!