What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I did rotors, calipers and ebc pads used front. Full rebuild in the back. Feels good but haven’t had a chance to stretch the legs.

 

I haven't done that swap yet. I just did the caliper upgrade. Once I get the truck all back together and get the brakes bled I'll see how they feel. I've heard that some people get a little bit of a squishy brake pedal just doing the caliper upgrade. If I'm not happy with how it feels then I'll probably do the BB AND MC.

 

As far as plug and play i believe sos performance has a big brake kit but its quite a bit more expensive than the calipers that I got. They also sell the sequoia rear disc swap kits.

 

I've had to rebuild mine in the back a couple times and will need to do it again after i get my axle seal leak taken care of and i quit ruining passenger side brake shoes. Lol

 

@daveeasa i saw that you had posted in the t100 thread. Did you ever get around to doing the swap?

 

No MC changes for me so far.

 

I was missing one fender flare and one was damaged. Instead of trying to find paint match ones I bought some textured ones on eBay.

 

@Silver1stgen13 nice work. That's looking like a sweet setup.
As for reservoir mounting, I think you're better off with the 90' fitting. I mounted mine under the frame rail towards the front. Like this

 

MS22, the ride height on the front drivers side sits higher on most Toyota / Lexus vehicles for some reason.

I used 2 (.50") Coachbuilder strut / coilover shims under the drivers side perch to bring the ride height back to normal:

https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...oilover-shim-provides-50-of-lift-tundra-99-06

 

You don't have any issues with the tire rubbing on it up there?

 

This was my other thought. Glad to see it can work. They are generous with the hose length.

 

Tire would hit the frame first I believe.

 

If you tuck it under the frame rail and not on the side it shouldn't be an issue. Just have to play around with where the hose comes up around so that the tire doesn't hit that. Mine has been rubbed very slightly once or twice on the fitting, but I don't have the nice 90' fitting and going on two years without any problems so far.

 

Ok cool. Appreciate the help!

 

So uhhh i found a thing when walking thru the local junkyard...



Bought the whole setup w/ unichip... as fun as a turbo is, a roots blower that's actually street legal sounds better. Also once its done I might entertain offers for my current turbo setup.

 

Talk about a nice find. Way to go.

 

I tried to multi quote but I dont think I did it right lol...... I used 2 (.50") Coachbuilder strut / coilover shims under the drivers side perch to bring the ride height back to normal:
I talked to Eibach today and thats what they said lol I never heard of the Yota lean

So far no rubbing anywhere, tire is about a 1/4 inch from my mudflap when turned

Everything else looks ok, just wish I can get the wheels to stuff up in the fender a little more

 

Best MPG on Hwy only (130 miles) with all my mods, not too shabby.

 

I will raise you;

 

$2500, and I can pull anything needed or related to the supercharger(colder thermostat, colder plugs, belt, etc). Pretty happy about that deal, just a bit worried about what tune is on that unichip. I'm going out there to pull the parts today.

 

That’s a steal

 

Jacked up the rear of the truck and spun the tires to isolate my current squeak to the rear u-joint. Guess it's time to replace them and the carrier bearing.

 

You and me both, brother. I just got back from overseas. I've spent the last 2 hours getting to this point, and probably have another hour to get caught up in Lunch Table. I should probably just cut my losses and have a memory gap, but curiosity is killing (my free time) right now.

I swear we're twins. I can't help if a little ADD and chronic mild depression may be a huge motivator in my inability to get shit done.

I bought the same ones on scAmazon. I have yet to get them done, but I have them. Stupid part is, I'm guessing this is, what, a 15 minute per window thing? Tops?

I bought mine on Summit, this is the exact part purchased for my '06 AC: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BDY-TO1102229V

I wanted chrome at the time, in hindsight maybe paint-matched would've been cooler but at the price I paid to have it shipped to my front door ($225 shipped w/holiday coupons November 2019) I'm not complaining. Treat any non-chromed parts with PB Blaster or other before install, it's worth the extra few minutes. Wax the chrome a couple of times over also.

There was a TSB for this on 2WD exclusively, for '05-'06 years. More info here.

Well, looks like I missed all the sales while off-continent, and I'm sure the holiday sale glut may've just set me back waiting on re-stock another 4-6 months so not sure it matters at this point, I'll need to see if anyone has inventory on anything before EOY.

I think I answered those but hell if I'm going to dig back and try to find. Gist is this:

• Slush budget sits around $2,500-$3,500 and that ideally would include tires. I can potentially fudge it a bit, scrape added funds together. Hovering on Wildpeaks rn, likely AT3, 275/70/17 unless I can Spidertrax 0.5" - 1.5" to run 285 w/o rub keeping my OEM wheels.
• Current driving trends are 85-90% craptastic road-scab- and pothole-laden ATL roads, 10-15% mountain/trail riding, mostly camping, fishing, and hiking excursions for the kids and/or my better 3/4 and I. Mostly rock/clay, no sand, no intent to crawl, purely utilitarian. Current shocks are OK, but worn.
• Rebuildable ... not really necessary, just something that I can get 35k-50k miles out of w/o rebuilding or replacing is sufficient for my needs.
• Aiming for ballpark 1.25 - 2.25 lift (front) for now (I might've said 1.5-2.5 before or "2.5 max", IDK)
• In the rear, only intending for new shocks in for now, hence the 2.25 - 2.5 max front lift.
• Preferences: Plug-and-play would be a nice change, prefer paying extra for pre-assembled fronts, I don't have extra hands or extra time, and hate springs. Don't want anything that'll (A) prematurely eat up other parts or (B) necessitate a re-boot at this time. Also hoping to skip UCA for now, honestly.

This is a 'Phase 1' for me, i.e. initial stance change that'll unlock my ability to stuff the tires I want under it without doing anything that's going to increase maintenance time or cause premature fatigue. Emphasizing that last bit, it's key. I have zilch time to work on the truck as it is, I don't want to be spending the time I would've had tweaking and working to fix other crap that happened due to "upgrades".

I'm basically about 10k-15k miles away from needing new rubber anyway, so I've got time to kill waiting for stuff if needed, given how little I've been driving since lockdowns pushed most of the guys I work with not having to check-in at a physical location daily.

 

So I know how y'all love stupid questions so here goes....

Water leak in the passenger footwell area!

Mine is AC related, NOT 'rain water through the clip in the cowl' related, which seems to be the exasperated response most people get when posing this question lol.

I've done some research and so far the only cause I see mentioned - with regards to this being an AC issue - is the drain hose being blocked.
I'll be diving under the dash to investigate this but my question is...
Are there any other known causes for this in relation to AC condensation? Anything else I should check or do while I'm under there to mitigate the issue? (other than RTV on the plastic clip under the cowl for rainwater that is)

I'm not averse to doing my research but almost every mention of water in the passenger footwell gets blamed on said clip (which I will seal up, I promise ) so I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything else

Also, on the AC note... mine makes an odd "sighing" sound periodically while it is running. Interweb research say a hissing sound could be a Freon leak or compressor issue, but I'm not sure I'd categorize the sound as a hiss... it's more like an exhale, like my AC is tired of me and my shit and wishes I would just stfu lol

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

I’ve got the same issue that I’m about to fix. You need to reseal the holes under the plastic cover where your wipers are. It’s on YouTube and another tundra forum.

 

I think you might be talking about the cowl fastener seal leak. Shown in the video at the end of the 1st post here. I think @tokolosh is saying that's not it, it's coming from the AC itself.

The whole issue with the cowl seal fastener is just that: As you'll see in that video I mention, water drips down into the blower motor and leaks from there.

If your drip isn't coming from the blower motor, then yes, next thing to check is the HVAC condensation box drain tube, but it's not under the dash. It's on the firewall in the engine bay, fairly positive w/o going out to my truck it's in the red circle below.

You can take a weed eater string and run up in the nipple ... if water drips past, it's probably clogged with slime mold, or debris and that's making the water build up in the evap housing until it overflows into the footwell. If it's the case, you should pop off your blower motor, vacuum out all the solids (there'll be at least some) and do your best to clear it up. There are foaming kits you can spray in there to dissolve the remains, but you don't want to use them until you clear out all the solid debris.

 

Dunno about the leak, but the sigh - My Prius makes that exact noise. There is a flap on one side of the blower fan box & the flap makes that sound as it opens & closes. Well, whatever is lifting the flap & lowering the flap is making the noise as the flap lifts & as it lowers.

 

OME!
FML!

But seriously, that's where I mentioned I was at before flying out the door: Running 5100s front and back with OME 2885 springs.

The 2885s are taller than stock, so some added spring lift, which I assume would allow me to run 1st notch on the 5100s and get ~3/4" lift up front, or 2nd and get closer to 1.5", I think?

I prefer keeping a tiny bit of rake, anything but ass-squat. I assume running on lower notches up front will improve on-road ride quality, which my truck'd appreciate given how shit the roads are here. Nearly everyone I've seen on here that's running 3rd or 4th notch has major complaints about ride quality.

 

I'll check that out, thanks!

Interesting, I'll research that angle. Thanks!