2nd gen cluster

I haven't had a chance to fix the off needle yet, but I'll do that when I take it apart again sometime soon. A couple questions:

1. Has anyone cleaned up/buffed the cover? I'd like to try that before replacing. I figure most plastic compounds would probably work (like the one for headlights?) but wanted to see if anyone had experience, good or bad, there.

2. @chrisf111 I'm following you up until a point - the Optitron clusters we have would come with Optitron boards right? So the chip should be there. I think there's more to it there as I've tried 3 different switches, at least two of which *should* have worked with it to dim, but no go. I'm not sure why. I may have to test out the voltage on the wires coming in to the switch to see if I get what you're saying (i.e. a variable/adjustable voltage when the dial is moved). What is your truck normally? i.e. is it a Limited or did you upgrade to the Optitron?

 

I also need to buff my cover. Following this discussion.

I upgraded to an Optitron in my SR5 2007 Crewmax. The dimming function worked the same exact way in both. Am I understanding correctly that it's just certain switches that are not dimming? If that's the case I would suspect that it's the bulb in the switches not needing as much voltage as the others. They get to full brightness with the same voltage the stock switches need to light up dim. I used switches from this site ( https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-push-switches.html ) and they dim. The RED/GREEN combo was the closest match to stock colors. It is not perfect but kinda close. On my junkyard list is a few switches from a part out vehicle to grab the switch bulbs in to.

 

Read the thread when you have some time:

TLDR version: the cluster itself is what doesn't dim when the headlights go on for several of us. The switches I'm referring to are the dimmer switch (not any push button switches). I've tried several that, in theory, should work, but don't: my stock one, one from. Tundra Limited and one from a Corolla. None of them dim when the headlights turn on, only manually.

There's definitely more going on there...

 

Thanks to @Tundra3k for recommending Neoprogram and the CH341A EEPROM reader.

I got one on Amazon for $15 in the mail today. After 2 hours of playing with it I was able to read my chip and reprogram the odometer on my 2014 cluster without removing the chip.

I can do a full edit of eeprom values in under 30 seconds now. Just clip, read, modify, write.






Milage before

Milage After (I now have a million mile Tundra lol)

 

Can you do a little more in depth write up on this? I need to do this to my cluster.

 

As always, nice work sir!

 

Same request as @chrisf111 - do you have some details on modifying the programmer? I basically destroyed mine I think trying to do it

I've just been driving around with about +8k on the odometer for now, which isn't the worst thing. I captured my mileage before and after the install to modify back to the actual mileage at some point...

 

This is the programmer I used. You guys may be having issues if you’re using a different programmer.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CH341A-24-...-BIOS-USB-Programmer-SOIC8-Clip-/165360405043

and followed this guy’s video :
https://youtu.be/RqOM-4MLGhY

 

Nope, same stuff here...the things I struggled with was modifying the programmer. It might just be I need a better soldering station vs. the $10 HF one I typically use. I had a tough time with the tiny wires and getting them where they needed to be to re-route in such a tight space...ended up melting the base of the pegs more often than not lol

 

Would you be able to do my cluster for a small fee?

 

Hmmm, if you wanna send it to me, I’ll solder it for you.

 

At this point it might be cheaper to just buy a new one from Amazon and have it sent directly to you lol...I got so frustrated with the initial one I got and I'm not even sure how good the clip is at this point (it wasn't the 341 programmer, but another one that was supposed to natively read/write the proper chip, but that was a complete fail). If you don't mind messaging me your address I can ship it over. I guess I don't really have any need for two...not much chip programming of any other type planned!

 

I swapped an Optitron cluster in and followed the instructions on how to correct the odometer, however now the odometer isn't incrementing, but the trip is working. My original was 63782 and I have the Optitron set to 63774 (thought that was close enough). Anyone experience this?

Update: So I talked to Automotive Circuit Solutions about this and apparently if the PCM sees that the mileage is lower than expected, the cluster will essentially lock you out and thus stops counting. So for anyone that does the swap and wants to correct the mileage, be sure to have it set exact or a little over from the original cluster. I was able to set the mileage as close as possible without going under the original and it started counting correctly again.

 

Interesting I ran a 2018 cluster with only 50,000 miles in my 2007 Tundra with over 200,000 miles not problem. Cluster was displaying 1/4 the real value and it counted and worked no problem.

I would lean more toward your first flash was a grouping of bytes the MCU didn’t understand or like. Most correctors will set all locations to the same value. To get more accurate you need to increment some of the first positions to add a mile or two. I think sometimes the MCU doesn’t like this and wants to start with all values in all locations the same.

Also a chance you had a typo or bad out of order byte location. If will read and display whatever data you put in it, however the MCU in the cluster needs it synced correctly to be able to increment the value

 

I'm in the same boat as Jeff. I've been running a cluster with 50k miles less than actual for over 6 months now with no issues. Incrementing correctly. From what I understood the mileage was ONLY stored in the cluster. There are quite a few threads I've read about that people swap in clusters with vastly different mileage, both higher and lower, without issues.

 

The ECU does store a Milage value deeply hidden inside. Why I am not sure because it seems it’s not really used for anything.

The cluster is the main and it even transmits it odometer value out to other ECUs on the communication network


I should add that I have now corrected 2-3 clusters for other people. All came out of newer wrecked trucks had has less milage on them than the truck they were installed in. All were working when first installed just with a much lower Milage value in them than correct for that truck. I added miles to all of them to match the truck they were in.

So I believe a cluster with lower miles than the vehicle should still function

 

I am also about halfway to having a way to correct milage via the OBD port without evening removing the cluster. I know it can be done.

A few days ago I finally got the correct signal to send into the OBD port to read out the Milage. (The first lines of the EEPROM)

Now it’s just a matter of finding the signal to send in new values and rewrite over the old ones. Hopefully soon.

All of this is Toyota proprietary coding with no documentation anywhere. It makes it very hard to figure out what is going on/what you are requesting.

The potential for an odometer correction software using a pc, usb to OBD2 cable and a few clicks of the mouse does exist.

 

I had a sub-30k cluster working in my Sequoia that had 126k+ (until I replaced it with one from the dealer that came with the miles set to the 130k+ the truck had at that time). No issues. I have swapped several clusters into other Toyotas (a Tundra and an 86) with until fixed much lower value clusters without issue, odd this is happening to you.

 

I did mess up a value at first (03 instead of 0E) and thought that was the culprit. Corrected it and the ODO still wasn't incrementing. At that point I was worried I screwed the cluster up and purchased another in haste (from a 13 FFV Tundra Limited). Tried what Automotive Circuit Solutions suggested and it started working again. Maybe it truly was that first flash and it took two additional flashes to correct it (one that corrected my mistake and another that increased the mileage slightly). Another amateur move I made was not saving a dump of the cluster before starting. We all live and learn from our mistakes.

Jeff, that would be epic if you could get that ODB port solution working.

 

Did I screw up?

I just ordered a 2010 Optitron cluster 0CF10 LKQ for my 2008 5.7 4WD SR5: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3639094134...EiERqs-QJm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Reading through this thread I see there are different part numbers for 2008, but I also see people have success with mismatched model years. Does anyone know if this will work correctly?

Second question, where are y'all sending it to get the mileage reprogrammed? I dunno that I want to get into EEPROM programming.

 

There are a few places on ebay where you can buy the programming, ship it to them, and they’ll ship it back for ~$80-100

 

This is who I ended up using:

https://www.odosolutions.biz/a/amp/...luster-mileage-correction-programming-service

 

I used this person for programming
https://www.ebay.com/usr/odometersolutions

 

Hi folks! Can anyone definitively confirm that the clusters are incompatible across 2010 Limited Sequoias and Tundras? I have moved to the US from Canada with my 2010 Sequoia Limited and would like to just buy a programmed Optitron cluster from Tanin. But early in this thread I saw posts saying that they are totally different with incompatible pinouts and I do see the part numbers are not the same, but later I saw what I understood to be Sequoia clusters used in Tundras but with the EPS light on. Do Tundras of the same generation not have EPS? I understand the fuel capacities are different but that would only matter if the senders have different resistance ranges.

 

As long as you use a 2007-2013 cluster the wiring is the same. The pin outs changed in 2014 for Tundra. The wiring for 2018 Tundra and Sequoia is the same.

The Sequoia has the electric power steering which no Tundra has. Using a Sequoia cluster in a Tundra will make the electric power steering warning be illuminated. The Pokémon ball looking logo.

Why not just use a 2007-2013 Optiron cluster from a limited or above. I see no benefit in trying to source a Sequoia one when they made Tundra ones.

 

Thanks! My problem is the reverse, I have a Sequoia and Tanin only lists Tundra clusters. So it sounds like it would work in my truck but I would lose the EPS warning light... that's vexing. I'll see if I can find a Limited Sequoia cluster then and see if they can program it.

 

If that is the case I would definitely look for a wrecked Sequoia cluster. Odometer programming is not hard. Make sure you keep fuel tank size and Flex fuel vs non flex in mind. It all needs to match

 

Makes sense, thanks! Until I read this thread I was under the impression that the trucks were much more similar than they are (ie difference limited to IRS and SUV specific rear junk).

 

Quick update on how awesome Tanin are, they said that I entered a 2010 Sequoia Limited VIN and that's the cluster they are sourcing for me! So +1 to using these folks