Daily Tundra with off-road trips in mind

I am glad to see that you also like it! Yea man, they had a 35% off deal and I got the bumper and winch together shipped to my door for under 2k, unbeatable, bumper also came powder coated included in the price, where anyother bumper manufacture would charge around $300 if they even offer that. Also, it is super light for a metal bumper and that is one of my top needs for a bumper.

 

OK, I have been looking at something that can give me a clear rear view because of I always have stuff in my bed that blocks it, also I am trying to add a rear tire carrier at some point that may need a cam relocation, but maybe with the anytime rear view, I don't need to relocate it.

 

I got the 12k monster winch too with the synthetic line. That sale was amazing, i just couldnt resist getting it. I really want to get the rear bumper now too. It would be less than a grand shipped since I have some lights left over from the front. I used some Rigid fog lights in the front for the SAE rating and I can put the amber chase lights on the back bumper with the clear flood cubes I have sitting in my garage. Just would need to run alot of wire to the engine bay for my switchpro setup. Wire cost is ridiculous right now.

I will probably break down and get the rear bumper during their black friday sale later this year.

 

nice! I considered their rear however, the only rear need for me is to have some solution to carry my spare tire, that won't fit underneath my bed anymore, only if they offer some kind of swing out options, plus, personally I love the "closed off" look in the rear and not a huge fan of the tubular look, but that extra departure angle sure is nice!

 

There is a camera relocation kit that come with the Ultraswing I think. Similar items have a relocation kit too. I was looking into it some time ago, but the price turned me off. Plus I didnt need it on all the time. I upgraded to the HD diamondback as a compromise and it was the best decision, you can pack anything on top of there, its secure, you dont need to take it on and off, it doesnt obstruct the rear view or reduce your departure angle.

Plus i am building a little camping trailer to carry all my camping stuff when we go out, I love having the rear camera on all the time to see the trailer since with my lift and the small profile of the trailer, I cant see it at all without the rear camera when im driving.

 

You cant fit your 35 under there? You should be able to if you cut the guide tabs under there. Even with Coachbuilder shackles I have seen 35s fit under there. Your KO2's also run slightly smaller than 35".

 

You are correct, my "small 35s" technically could fit under there even with my coachbuilder shackles, however, like you said, I would need some cutting and modifying which I am not a fan of. Additionally, I just think that having the spare underneath the bed is a bad spot when needing to access it on the trails, it may be very difficult to get to say in the mud/water/inclined/off-camber situation, where a hitch mount would be so much better.

I am very close to pulling the trigger on the dirtcomplex trailswing, i like there design more than the rigd ones, but they are 2K!!!!! I just can't justify it, yet. lol

 

an enclosed bed with cabin height room is one of my must haves, but if not, diamond backs will be my go to as well Impatiently waiting for this company called GAIA campers/caps to come out with a stainless steel option for our tundras, I have seen RSI, alubcab, gfc's offerings and I want to see what GAIA has to offer.

 

Good point on the access underneath. I would just hate to waste the space under there, but, if you wanted to spend some money, I have seen some round fuel containers that are made to fit under there where the spare tire would otherwise go. I forget the brand but you should be able to find it on google.

 

I hear you, I actually don't mind that big of an empty space under there, it makes it much easier for me to work on my axle, suspension when needed. I could actually sit up straight under there believe it or not haha

 

Yeah it is pretty annoying to lower that spare when I need to work on it. I actually bought a second tool to lower the spare since its really annoying to get to the one in the rear with my 2 carseats back there. I have no problem sitting up under there when its out though with my 2.5 inch lift back there.

How much lift do you have overall? I am at 2 inches in the front and 2.5 in the back. I love me some rake and I do have some static weight back there with the diamondback, Molle panels and tools/powertank setup. My roadmaster suspension has been amazing combined with 5160 and coachbuilders.

 

2021 May
Getting ready for summer, acquired bluetti 700watt hour portable solar battery bank, and 175watt renogy solar panel.
I had seen van life builds using this bracket and 80/20 alu extrusion so I figured I'd DIY something too.

getting about 120-140watts on a good sunny day, which is more than I need to fun a fridge to it indefinitely.

Got these brackets that work for the THULE tracks came with my LEER cap.

view from the top, its a huge piece, tried to mount it the other direction but the tracks are not long enough for the low profile mounting method.

really low profile i say.

another angle.

I ran the solar cable down from the top of the LEER cap and up from the floor under the 2nd row seat, found a rubber grommet to feed the wire thru.

finished look, now i can run my iceco fridge indefinitely.

 

I have 1.9inch front (bilstein 6112) and maybe 1 inch in the back (coach builder +2 shackles), with all the weight I have in the bed, I want/need to raise it to 2 or maybe 2.5inches, but I am not sure if the bisltein 5160 can handle that because it's only rated for a 1.75 inch lift in the rear, don't want to pull the shocks too hard.

 

Have you had any issues with the lack of front license plate? I used the Ironman provided bracket and its nice with the flip up but not as clean of a look as yours.

 

Luckily my state does not require a front license plate, I saw that flip up bracket and tbh I won't mind using it if I had to, because I assume it also serves as a protection covering the winch components.

 

I am running the 5160 with a total of 2.5 inch lift and there are no problems with the shocks. I had the same fear but I talked to Dave at Coachbuilder and he said its fine to use because the suspension setup of the truck itself will limit it to where there is nothing to worry about. I would definitely still recommend aftermarket bump stops. I am using the Durobumps front and rear and they are pretty amazing, bumps are buttery smooth offroad with them.

 

Its true that it covers the winch completely so I like the stealth factor so people dont get tempted to steal. The factor 55 hook I have is fat though so i run it into the bumper through the winch ports and secure it with a shackle, very hard to notice there is a winch still.

 

Im looking at doing something similar with my bluetti. Do you mind linking your solar panel? What made you decide to use the glass solar panel over the flexible one?

 

Here it is: https://renogy.com/175-watt-monocrystalline-solar-panel/

I went with hard panel over the flexible ones mainly due to I don't want to potentially ruin the paint on my LEER cap or any part of the truck, I know people say the VHF tape or whatever adhesive they use is safe but I also depends on how you apply/remove them, just don't want to deal with that, plus I want to be able to check if the panel is secured which its harder if you tape them and some part of the glue is coming loose, where as hard panel you can just check on the bolts. Also, apparently heat hinters the efficiency of the solar panel, and having a gap to allow air flow (hard panel route) definitely helps to cool it off instead of being taped on a hot roof. This is just my thought process, hope it helps.

 

If that's the case I maybe able to add something to provide me with a bit more load capability in the back, I am happy with the way it is now, will wait till after I actually get a stainless steel topper.

 

The RAS is really awesome for payload, stability, lift and its on par with a sway bar. I havent noticed removing the sway bar when I put the RAS on.

 

so Dose the RAS hinders the ability for the truck to flex during offroad condition?

 

Not at all that I have found. I dont do crazy rock crawling but I do do some moderate to moderately difficult trails with some flex.

 

Yup! For sure helps. I’m just trying to figure out if I should go with the rigid panel or not. I’m mainly concerned with the cooling aspect but I don’t know if I want to make my truck any taller or not. Thanks for the info!

 

No problem, I think it mainly comes down to which you would dislike less, [little more height] vs [irreversible mounting].

 

Looks like you’ve had it for over a year, have you run into any issues?

 

Not at all, if anything, I loved how easy it was to add accessories onto my crossbar that I wouldn't have had if I went with the flexible panel. Another thing to consider is, I know with a hard panel I won't be mounting stuff over it so it blocks sunlight, where I assume with the flexible panel, there is a much higher chance that you would still use the cross bar to mount stuff. That will significantly decrease the energy input. Just something to consider.

 

Yeah, I am leaning towards the rigid panel. I forgot that I am gonna create a DIY solar water heater that will stick higher then the solar panel. With that, do you think it is better to run 2 100W panels or 1 200W panel?

 

Joolca makes an awesome propane furnace system that is a shower and a sink combo, I love it and its as endless as how much propane you have.

 

I am a simple guy, I am happy with the 175watt or 200watt single panel's output, also there will be some more wiring comes with connecting two panels, plus, I don't think my track would fit running two.