Door check repair kit warning

To all those that have used, or plan to use, the door check repair kit (formerly known as the mutha Russia kit). I bought the kit and used it to repair my failed door checks about a year ago. The kit is awesome and I highly recommend it to anyone even considering it. Such an improvement and one less annoyance of everyday life.
That being said, my door checks (not door hinges) recently developed a ‘creak’ sound when opening and closing, and was getting progressively worse. Dry graphite lube is ideal and I believe is what the kit came with. I didn't have any, or couldn’t locate it if I did, so I had planned on picking some up. However, before that happened, I had a bad day, was short tempered, and hearing that door creak was too much.
(Here’s where I fukt up)
I had a can of PB Blaster all purpose lube in the truck, and soaked the door check down and deep inside quite generously. Immediately after that, the creak turned to a squeak, and the door closed as if I had taken the door check out completely. Zero resistance. Door check- compromised. You ever get so aggravated that you just stop and laugh?
Anyways, I’m not sure if cleaning them out, then using graphite, would bring them back to life, but the way it swings so freely, I highly doubt it.
The point of this post is to warn against using any type of lube on the door checks other than dry graphite, especially with the repair kit installed.
Thankfully, the kit comes with enough bits to do 4 doors, and I only did the front 2. I do have to do the repair again, but at least I don’t have to buy the parts again as well.
Hope this helps at least one person avoid the same headache

 

I'd try spraying them out with carb cleaner before I replaced them completely.

I have the same kit, and yeah, it was cheap and easy. Probably not available anymore although I have not checked.

 

The Dorman part worked out great for me DC rear door.

 

As long as you use dry lube they’ll probably last forever. What’s the Dorman part? Just the plastic inserts or the entire door check?

 

Dorman Products 924-963 - Its actually a Nissan Altima part per Dorman website. Someone else around here used it and I decided to give it a go as well. The leg that attaches to the cab is shorter so its a matter of taking it apart and replacing it with the leg from the factory check. The door is nice and tight throughout the swing and stays in place in any open position.


Here is the link that I saw it on.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-dc-daily-driver-2wd-to-4wd-conversion.48447/page-3#post-2379172

 

I just did mine three weeks ago, and my kit did not come with the lube. So I sprayed them with Slip Plate graphite dry lubricant thinking that would be a good substitute, but they squeak like crazy. What other lubricant should I seek out and purchase?

This is what I used:

$19 SLIP Plate Aerosol, 12-oz

https://www.amazon.com/Slip-Plate-Plate®-Aerosol-12-oz/dp/B005ESITFQ/

 

Hmm…. I would think that would’ve worked, but the stuff I was talking about usually comes in a tube (similar to loctite thread locker) and ‘poofs’ out in a powder form. I may have found the stuff that came with my kit, when I get back to it, I’ll post a pic. Thanx for the info on the spray, I almost bought a can of that.
Actually, I’m remembering now that the original line that came with the kit was in a small bottle with a brush, similar to nail polish.

 

That's what I thought too, so thought the slip plate would be a good substitute. Maybe I didn't put enough, or it was still too wet before assembling/using. I'd spray more, but the problem with that stuff is it goes EVERYWHERE and the overspray is about as hard to get off as black spray paint. :-/ I guess I'll start looking for the paste stuff.

 

Okay this is what came with the kit I bought, back when they were still coming from Russia. Evidently it’s PTFE + graphite + MoS2. Not sure what MoS2 is.

you are correct that it WAS a paste. I dropped the ball and left it cracked open so it’s all dried out. Not sure what I could even mix into it to bring it back if that were possible.

This is what I’m left with

 

The dry graphite that comes in a small tube and ‘poofs’ out as a dry powder I believe would work just the same as this paste. However, being in paste form with a brush keeps it contained better. More control, less mess. The only time I’ve actually used the poofy pow in the past is for lock and key mechanisms.
That’s all I’ve got.

 

Thanks for this, VERY helpful!

MoS2 = molybdenum disulfide, more commonly referred to as "moly"

This helps with finding a suitable replacement. I found these two... I think either one should be a good substitute:

CRC Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease 05351 – 2.5 Wt. Oz, High-Temperature Brake System Grease

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8IF1Q/

CRC SL33011 Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease, 2.5 Wt Oz

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL33011-Synthetic-Caliper-Grease/dp/B000CPAWOM/

 

I just noticed the first one is supposed to be a six pack... if I do indeed get six, I'll have some to share, LOL!

 

Brake grease huh? Interesting.

 

When I was working on my BMW 750 drive shaft splines (motorcycle), the wisdom was to use a moly grease, but only to use the Honda grease.
It's dark gray, and sticks like crazy. I used my wifes toothbrush, and it worked great!
I've heard it is very hard to find.
I got mine at a Honda car dealership.

 

When I lube my brakes, I usually use a copper anti-seize from 3M.

 

So with this said, can some break down what came in this kit, in addition to the moly? Steps taken? My internet sleuthing has not turn up much, perhaps I have not had enough coffee...

 

There were a couple of different kits. The one that I got had four sets of the plastic replacement "pads" and some spacer shims (I didn't need them). Really not much to it for the price, but if you need it, you need it.

Steps to replace are to remove the door check/stops, drill out the spot welds to remove old pads, insert new pads, and reinstall back in the truck. The welds aren't necessary since bolting back into the door holds everything together. Pretty simple really.

One thing on the grease, what came with the kit was designed to dry after application. What I suggested above does not dry, so not a perfect replacement after all. However, I have not been able to find any other similar single-solution product anywhere, so will probably use three different dry lube products in combination: graphite (Slip Plate), PTFE (Dupont dry lube or something similar), and Moly (have yet to find one).

 

The decision to use the wife’s toothbrush is amusing. Not the type of product you could clean out of a toothbrush and hope she doesn’t notice.
“Hun, where’s my toothbrush?”
“I dunno”
“Well it’s gone, what happened to it?”
“I dunno”
Just make sure to throw that bad boy in the trash before she spots it in the garage, eh?

 

Reminds me of Speedkar99 on Youtube. Always using his brother's toothbrush or socks or underwear or shirts. LOL

https://youtu.be/l6WXqdaiuKo

 

Hey does anyone have a source for the check strap rebuild kit? My 2003 Rav4 rear door check straps are totally gone end they shut by themselves and it’s totally annoying! I’ve looked everywhere and the only source is OEM Toyota but they want close to $200 for the pair! Thanks!

 

Any chance the 2006 and up model will work on your RAV4?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1340560263...XfJ0OtURse&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


If anything you can order those and put the new rubber bits into your originals like many of us have done with the Tundras. I used a rear door check for a Nissan Altima I believe that I used to repair rear door check on my 05 DC.

 

What door check kit do you guys recommend for the first gen Tundra? Both of my rear doors are closing even on level ground

 

@dirtnsmores I used

$13 Dorman 924-963 Rear Right/Left Door Check Compatible with Select Nissan Models

Dorman 924-963. I believe it's a Nissan part. Info on how to take it apart and use the leg from your OEM door checks in this thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-dc-daily-driver-2wd-to-4wd-conversion.48447/page-3#post-2379172

I'll be using that same Dorman part to refurbish my front doors as well in the future.

 

I can design and make (3d print) the plastic wear parts for the door check. I did this for my 2000 Toyota Camry. It works like new now.
If anyone needs this done for their vehicle (any make/model), let me know. Just take apart your old door check and send me the worn plastic latch(es). I will 3d model and print them for you.

Attached is a picture of the one I made for the '00 Camry. The left one is the worn latch. The right one is the new one I made, showing the distinct "hump" that sits in the valleys of the door check arm to hold the door open. As you can see, the plastic just wears away over time and leaves a flat surface that no longer "catches" to hold the door open.

 

What's the catch? (or cost)

 

I would just ask you to cover the shipping and cost of filament to print it. I would print 8 pieces so you can fix all 4 doors. Maybe $1 each piece and about $5-7 for shipping, depending on where you live.

 

I use Guard Dog moly on my beemer k-75, the Honda moly is good too, although I think they are both discontinued now. Ted Porter at the Beemer shop has a good replacement moly if you ever have a need. Off topic I know, sorry, but I love talking motorcycles, especially older BMWs. Carry on.

 

Ordered/received 3d printed plastic rebuild parts off bay. Would Super Lube be appropriate? Seems compatible with PLA plastic, only possible issue would be the rubber in the body of the unit.

https://www.super-lube.com/Content/...ti-Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon.pdf

thanks

 

I love SuperLube products. However, I wouldn't use wet lube for that application. I think lubrication would actually defeat the function of the doorcheck. I'd am for a dry lube, but I'd also question why lube is required, where you're putting it.

 

I replaced the door checks on my mom’s honda odyssey van a couple weeks ago. The OEM checks came with lube on them.