PCV Valve Replacement Instructions-4.7L

Here is a look into a 2002 PCV grommet hole after about 10k miles with new valve gaskets service. Prior, this hole was gunked before changing the PCV valve last year. The new valve seems to be working fine, but you can see some cack droppings starting to develop down inside the cover hole.

 

Are most people replacing because this part fails and throws a code, or age, or if your pulling stuff near it it’s a good idea to just change it out? Thanks

 

I've never actually heard of 1 failing. I replaced mine because it was 17 years old and it's a $10 part. It was pretty nasty too.

 

Oh ok. Has anyone here ran catch cans? Cats on the 4runner page were all about them, keeps stuff cleaner, but also lots of nay sayers. Mostly boosted engines that ran them but the theory seems sound.

 

I had one on my old 24 valve Cummins, I liked it.

 

Mine (PCV) was all gunked up when I changed it during the valve cover gaskets replacement at 150k miles. Probably had been clogged since 80k miles when I noticed a black soot ring around the PCV area. Didn’t pay much attention to it and drove it another 70k miles which probably lead to early failure of the VCGaskets/tubes.

Here is a good link which explains things better.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197

 

Did this today @ 131k. Was unsure when last replaced but valve didn’t look too bad. Grommet was pretty toasted. Came out in 3 pieces and all accounted for. Truck seems to idle a hair smoother, could be my imagination.

 

I did mine today while swapping injectors, it was pretty nasty.

 

Been studying the PCV more. It's actually more important than I realized. I want to replace the PCV on my wife's Rav4 but it's a hell of a lot harder to reach. I couldnt even find it initially and had to watch a YouTube video. Bummed that it won't be easy.

 

You got this.

I wish I had replaced mine at the 80k miles mark when I noticed the black soot ring around it. Wonder what is that? Told myself: Myself its a Toyota Tundra and it will last forever.

Probs why my cam and crank seals have light seeps and why my VC gaskets failed at 130k.

 

Pulled my PCV out tonight with plans of getting a new one at the dealer tomorrow when I go to town.

Pulled the PCV right out no problems at all “was expecting the worst.” PCV was in good condition could hear the valve sliding up and down and could blow easily through it, and there was minimal gunk buildup. I’ve decided to clean it well with mass airflow cleaner because it’s safe on plastic and just check it every 6 months or so.

 

Do the threaded valves on the later models (03+) still have a grommet to replace? Going to order a new valve online, not seeing a grommet part. Can't tell by looking without starting to tear into it.

 

No they do not.

 

Thank you! Exactly what I needed. Love this community!

 

Hey Guys,
I bought a spare set of valve covers. I intend to have them powder coated and then
Swap themout with a new plugs and valve cover gasket.
My 05 has a grommet style PCV. my spare set has a thread in type.

will older valve covers work on 05 and 06 engines?

 

Is this something that needs to be a genuine Toyota part? Or can I just run to the auto-parts store and grab one.

 

Aftermarket is probably ok but the Toyota part wasn't very expensive a few years ago. Less than $20 I think. Try McGeorge or Serra Toyota for best prices.

 

I just swapped my PCV out in my '06 which has same config as yours if V8, and it was thread-in, I removed the OEM part with 72k miles on it. You'll need to do the 4 half-moon plugs at the back of the head (2 on each side) with FIPG also It was $8 from the dealership.

$18 12204-50030 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Valve Sub-Assy, Vent (12204-50030)

12204-50030 -- PCV Valve (Left) $8.29

I ordered at parts.toyota.com and set it up for store pickup with some other little odds and ends.

I'm suspicious if you're telling me yours isn't thread-in.

Don't forget, there's more to valve cover gaskets than just the main gasket. You need FIPG to seal a couple of the right-angle corners, you need the plug hole gaskets (8), new hardware gaskets (18) at least. If you need more info, holler.

 

00-02 just pops in. Kind-of a pain when that has hardens up and keeps trying to pull it out.

 

We covered it on the first page but 00-02 is the press in, 03-06 is threaded.

 

Right, but @AV8R4AA is saying they have an '05, which has vvti and should be thread-in.
Also said he got a spare pair of valve covers of an older model which are thread-in, but that makes no sense unless they were pulled from an '03-'04.

Seems like there's a conflict here - either someone already installed pre-2003 valve covers into his truck, or the info given is incorrect, or there's something else weird going on here.

 

Edited to correct. Thanks for the heads up, I gotta quit posting before the brain is fully functional.

 

Tried to replace pcv on 05 tundra at around 100k miles, could not get it to break loose (thread). Gave it as much as I could while not wanting to break something. So said screw it I'll try another time.

Ended up using that pcv valve when I bought 06 sequoia with 200k, it came right out no problem.

Still need to try again on truck.

 

Maybe try it when it’s hot(the engine)

 

Or like a spark plug, try tiny adjustments to tighten and loosen instead of just loosen.

 

Yeah I was thinking that, aluminum head expansion vs steel plug... Thing that throws me is how easy the Sequoia was with twice the mileage. Unsure if it was original or not though.

 

Could just be that some prior person used threadlock when replacing. You never know. Doing while engine is hot is worth a shot.

 

Little PB blaster application for 3 consecutive days May help. I did my manifold bolts and O2 sensors and they all came out easy. Can’t under emphasize the back and forth with stubborn bolts. It lets the threads clear debris instead of packing it in the grooves.

 

I bought truck at 60k miles and almost certain its the factory valve. But they come with a thread lock/sealant pre-applied. Which would also make removal while hot the best plan...

I'll try again this spring. With gas prices she's been parked until I need it for turkey hunting season.

 

Just did this PCV valve replacement today. It was easy, probably one of the easiest maintenance items ever (with my luck things are usually stuck). The old valve still moved up and down inside the housing but was very dirty. Simple thread-out the old and thread-in the new. Replacement PCV valve used: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-pcv-valve-pcv549/10099422-P?searchTerm=pcv

The foam cover on it is nastyyy. When I pulled it off a cloud of particulates puffed out and I'm sure it's a mix of dust and deteriorated foam. Moving it around causes puffs of dust and deteriorated foam to come out, coating my hands. I bet it's more deteriorated foam than dust, but since I don't have another foam cover on-hand I just reused the old one.

Does anyone know the diameter of the thread-on PCV valve? I used a monkey wrench.

Also, I'm unsure of how deep to thread in the PCV. As I threaded-in, resistance started to build until the final rotation, with 1 full rotation of decent resistance to get the tube facing out. I could've threaded it in even more but I stopped once I got to similar depth that the old one was threaded in. I didn't want to damage these aluminum valve covers. Comments are welcome on if I stopped too soon or threaded too far.