5.7 Supercharged E85 fuel system diy project

The injectors sit next to the supercharger, so yes you can remove them and the rail without removing the blower. The rear area is a bit of a bitch to reach though, lots going on back there. Also be careful knocking shit into the injector holes if it's dirty around them.

 

Copy that, thanks! I was remembering (or maybe misremembering) something to the tune of that during the install that the injectors needed to go in before the blower in the install guide, but couldn't recall the reason. This is what I was hoping to hear, I really didn't want to have to huck that bugger around again.

 

Just checked, easy to reach. Passenger rear might be a bitch due to fuel line and harness being tight. Blower doesn't interact at all with the rail or injectors.

 

Dude, thanks for going out to have a look! Awesome! In the meantime, I went digging in my downloaded files and found two install guides. One has the injector/rail being installed first, and the other has the housing going on first and then the injectors afterward. Sweet, now there's le$$ rea$on for me to not do this.

 

I didn't see the posts, sorry I didn't respond to ya.

Looks like you got everything you need to figure out out though.

It's not terribly hard to do. That being said, there's a few tips I've learned the hard way. Lol.
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Tips for replacing injectors:
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*The hardest part is getting the stock lines off the rails. Get a good fuel line removal tool (metal, not plastic, if you can find one)

*The rails are held with 14mm bolts.
Have a few short and medium extensions and a swivel and they aren't hard... But the back can be a little tight so have those.

*Also have a magnet to pull them out easily without losing them. God help you if you loose one of the back behind the engine. That's where parts and tools go to die. Ain't coming back.

*The rails sit on black plastic spacers that those 4 bolts go through.
Keep an eye out and be sure you grab those after you pull the rail

*Before you do any of this, get a high pressure air hose and blow really good all over around the sides of the SC and get the dirt and other crap out of there so it doesn't fall into the open holes.

*A bent tip, (like an "L") small, flat head screwdriver is a great tool to pull the injector seals those don't come out with the injectors.

*Do your best to get the crud out of around where the seals sit on the intake of it's bad in there. I originally used q tips and alcohol but quickly realized that's a short trip to dropping a q tip into the cylinder.(didn't happen but I had the vision. Lol).
So I switched to a larger flat head screwdriver with a rag wrapped around the tip soaked in brake or intake cleaner.
I also stuck the tip of the vacuum in there while I did that to suck up any big grime that got knocked loose.


*Wash the seals in Simple Green. Then dry and liberally cover with whatever grease you are using. They make injector safe lube you can get at the auto parts store.

*Use that same lube when you put the new injectors into the rail on the bench.

*When you put the rail back with the injectors attached, go slow... Gently put the spacers in and very slowly line everything up and push carefully to get the injectors to line up and push into the seals. You should be able to feel them pop into place.

"If it feels wrong don't force it.. Use a flashlight and be sure everything looks good.

Good luck! Enjoy your new powah!

 

awesome build man. love the blacked out look as well...

 

Thanks man! I appreciate it!

 

This helps a ton! Believe it or not, I bought my truck not knowing it was a FFV. No badging, no nothing. Just found out when I pulled the tank and saw the funky pump (oem non ffv pump in hand ready to install). Managed to also break a nipple off of the switching valve while I was at it. Am I correct to believe that I can use this OEM non ffv pump, completely bypass the switching valve, stop leaking that sweet nectar , AND not end up with any codes? Also that all I’ll need is the 1 non ffv supply line?

 

Whether or not it's a FFV or not is indicated in the VIN. Normally there are decals somewhere under the hood although those could be removed by someone motivated to do so.

 

I broke that exact same stupid nipple on the switching valve! LOL.

As far as the line go, you are correct. The non-FFV supply line just has a fitting that fits the top of the pump. The one you have now has a different fitting on the end that connects to the switching valve.

So you remove that line (connector on the other end is right at the front of the tank.) and install the non-ffv one, (same fitting on the front side, pump connector fitting on the rear side)...Now you can go straright ot of the pump to the engine, bypassing the switch.

The ONLY thing I am not 100% about in your case is the electrical connector to the pump. Im not certain if the FFV and non-FFV are the same.

I know that the FFV and NON do have different Fuel pump control modules... located inside the frame rail drivers side. They have like 1 extra wire for FFV coming from the ecu. Now.. they may have the same OUTPUT wiring, which would mean in theory the non ffv pump/canister may work as long as you arent trying to run ethanol..

But I am not certain. Since you have your stock FFV pump and the new non-ffv maybe you can compare and see... drop the new pump into a bucket of gas and plug it in and test. lol (That was NOT a real suggestion)

Curious if this would work. In my case I still used the FFV canister.

 

That’s a very good point to consider! I’m faily certain the connectors are the same, hopefully the wiring is the same minus whatever extra wire it takes to run ethanol. (I have no interest ever running ethanol anyways). Tough part is once i submerge that sucker in the gas tank, I can’t return it. Will get to work on this tomorrow and update! Oh, also, I was able to remove the fitting from the fuel supply line and swap it with the proper one that’ll plug into the tank. (without buying the new line from toyota). Hopefully all goes smoothly!

 

Awesome. So which line did you use?

 

Update! Successful non FFV fuel pump swap.
I managed without buying the $100 fuel line from toyota. Used the supply line that ran from the switching valve to the hard fuel lines in front of the tank. Redirected it directly to the tank, and used the fitting that used to be on the short red hose running to the switching valve.
Plugged all the holes on the switching valve, but left it in place and plugged in to wiring harness. Switching valve is completely un used now. The non FFV fuel pump fit just fine and the harness that plugs into it is identical to the FFV harness. No error codes on dash. No more glug glug upon start, didn’t have to buy $300 broken switch valve, and got an OEM pump. (the FFV pumps are on national backorder) Thanks for the help!

 

Awesome!

So I'm confused on the line.

Are you saying you were able to change the actual fitting on the old line and swap in the one from the small one?

 

Exactly, stole the fitting from the short red hose pictured. Notice it’s cut…

 

Gotcha. Zoomed in and see it now.
And then it's zip tied it looks like?
Can you tell us how you attached it to the other hose? And it's holding ok?
That's where I would be nervous!

 

Well i heated up the hose end to get it over the fitting (very tight fit) Factory there’s no extra clamps or anything either. It’s very snug, the zip tie was just a little extra. No leaks so far.

 

Nice. I saw that trick mentioned when someone was having trouble with fuel pump hoses. Sounds like a solid setup.

Great find on being able to reuse the original hose.

 

There is a verified loss of pressure when the rails are run in series. It looks like this might be a little easier and cheaper solution than the ViktorG 'Dead Head' parallel fueling system he describes on YouTube titled 'How to Build a 750 HP Toyota Tundra Fuel System for $600. Are there any risks with the way this series/parallel fueling mod works?

 

I just purchased the DW 650 injectors, looks like the previous owner was running stock injectors with the blower on it :>( Running an xtool to monitor trims and A/F. I also just purchased an MPVI3 and have started logs. Can you share you tune file with me?! Since your setup is so close to mine, it will probably give me a good place to start? Main thing is getting these new injectors in and base timings so I can at least drive and log rich instead of lean....Also looks like the VSV ground mod has been done but I'm still getting 48 psi with my new DW420 pump installed, when I use the xtool and actuate the pump switch, fuel jumps to 60psi from 48, so the ground mod doesn't seem to be keeping the switch on for some reason....

 

Amazing write up, did you do away with the FPR in the flex sender and if so was that function replaced elsewhere?

 

So when my FFV pump went out at 140k miles I thought well this is a good time to swap in the 38 gallon tank which I love. I also went with the Aeromotive 325 pump in the non FFV basket. So I basically bypassed the fuel switching valve on the frame above the tank. Problem was my truck went into limp mode ran rich and wouldn’t run over 4500 RPM “limp mode”. So i rigged the pump in my old FFV basket plumped up the switch again and it runs normal again. But twice now it has blown the fuel line off the pump. It’s also developed a slow to crank issue.
Any information on how to tune out the switching valve? I would love to bypass the whole FFV system and go back to the non FFV basket / pump housing.

 

@4firemandan correct me if I'm wrong, but bypassing the pressure switch valve shouldn't need anything. The fuel pump may just be pushing too much fuel for your system to handle without a ECU retune. Do you think downsizing the pump should do it? Seems odd to me like there's an additional factor

 

I can see where that might be it. I don’t understand why the truck would ignore the 02 sensors, and MAF sensor just because the fuel pressure is more than it was.
Do you happen to know a tuner that would know? DAP will not answer emails or phone calls. I’ve emailed a few others also. Someone on this thread mentioned that the fuel control module is different between the flex fuel and non flex fuel rigs. I would SO love to delete the FFV system. I have seen another thread about using HP tuners to get around it. I just don’t have time at the moment to learn HP tuners. I kinda need a simple fix for now.
@fytedapowr did you bypass the FFV is your truck tuned?
Thanks to everyone on this thread.

 

Bump. I have been on the hunt for an ‘18-‘20 Tuntra 1794 and came accross one that was a FFV and had a Magnusson supercharger on it. Plenty of add-ons as well. But after reading this article on build considerations, I now know I don’t have the mechanical skills or knowledge to handle this kind of build. If I did, I would be on that truck. One of my sons had a FFV Mustang with a Coyote & Supercharger with advanced timing. It was a monster on the road. “Corn Fed.”

 

There are few over on the supercharger thread that are ffv and supercharged and doing well.

 

@snivilous tuned my Sequoia to perfection.

I was having to relearn the ethenol regularly until I got a non flex ecu.

Good luck!

 

Currently running a 2650 supercharger on FFV. I do reset my eth content once in a while via a bi directional tool. After ever fill up it calculates eth content. With resetting it'll usually get me between 5-10 fill-ups before eth content starts to creep up and lock-in. Nice thing is the stock flex fuel pump does have good pressure. I'm boost reference and 76mm pulley with 750cc injectors and have injection duty cycle right at 90%. Probably a good idea to upgrade for me but as of now no issues. Now if I were to run a ethanol mix say E30/35 or so I would probably drop fuel pressure and the 750's wouldn't cut it no more.

 

It seams with the Magnuson you can no longer use FF and must use 91. Also, most reporting a drop in MPG. With that, here in Kommiefornia where fuel is at a National high? The fuel cost & lower MPG is just too much of an additional cost for a daily driver.

 

I hear ya. I daily mine and premium is around $4.55.