Leaking injectors?

What exactly am I looking at? Leaking injector gaskets? I did a quick search but didn't find anything that fit what I typed exactly.

 

Coil tube gaskets. Hold up, I'll dig up a pic.

 

Look at this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1297#post-2692231

Hopefully it makes sense where the leak is coming from.

Are you seeing any valve cover leaks, around the edges? Like, these examples from my driver side?

 

Maybe....this is the driver side best I could get with lighting. Doesn't look recently wet. I may clean it then see what I get after. Passenger side looks pretty clean.

 

That looks pretty dry to me. You'd know, because the drips I show in that last pic drop right onto the manifold, which you'd smell when you get out of the truck after a long drive.

You really can't replace the tube gaskets without popping off the whole valve cover which - to do things right - would want to clean and re-FPG the corners and half-moons, and replace the valve cover gasket at reinstall.

Dependng on your mileage, the previous owner may've swapped the valve cover gaskets and skipped the tube gaskets because they're a pain, or they failed to buy them, who knows. You'll find several YouTube videos showing how to do 2UZ valve cover gaskets and they just gloss over the tube gaskets, or skip replacing the valve cover bolt gasket-washers.

Really, it's a tiny, insignificant leak right now. You may be able to add some ATP

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 and it'll tie you over for another 10-20k miles. It'll rejuvenate (but not over-swell) the existing gaskets. It took my leak from a small dribble to a few drips per trip and that's exactly what I needed to make time to do the job. You can add at any time between oil changes.

 

OP - that photo is a closeup of one of the ignitor coils. Under it is the spark plug inside a thin metal tube. There is a circular seal where this tube goes through the valve cover. Appears you have a little bit of seepage at the seal. The seals are a stupid design. You have to remove the valve cover and bend some metal retaining tabs to pry out the old and replace. If you go this route you'll need a new gasket, a tube of FIP seal and likely new bolts. Also be advised if you have never removed the valve cover or live in the rust belt one or more of the bolts may break. I always replace the bolts because they have a rubber seal on the back side that gets brittle and cracked. If that photo is the extent of your leak, I would leave well enough alone. Like many things once you start tinkering it's a slippery slope...

 

Thanks for the in depth response...Sounds like you and @shifty` are basically saying the same things. I read up on the ATP

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 seal conditioner and of course there are a ton of good reviews and some that say they'd never do it. I'll round up the necessary supplies so I have it and monitor it for now. Was more just wondering in the op if it was a huge problem. Seems as it is not but yet but I can make a couple day deal outta it if I doesn't go smoothly. Thanks for the info fellas.

 

Here's the thing about

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 and any other leak fix. There's an expectation problem with them, and that's what fuels the wild swing of reviews you're going to read. There are people who genuinely think these products are a cure-all, work 100% of the time, and it's the magic ticket to making their quart-per-week leak stop, for example. Then, there are more-realistic folks who understand leaks can come from any number of things, including gasket tears, not just your gaskets shrinking with time and age. No product out there is going to fix a gasket tear.

Additionally, there are several places to use "stop leak" products, some are specially tailored for one application and won't work with the others.

• In the crank case to fix a rear main seal, or other engine block oil leak points.
• In your coolant to fix water leakage, or other coolant leak points
• In your power steering reservoir to fix hydraulic leaks, or similar
• In your transmission, to fix any number of leaks there
• In your driveline, to fix axle, gearbox, diff and other seal leaks

There are also a couple of different ways these types of products work, and pros and cons to each method. Like, how does the product work, and what does it use to achieve that? It's different on a product-by-product basis, too, wildly variable. Like, some products use methods to clot at leaks, some use chemicals to swell or over-swell gaskets, sometimes beyond the natural limits of the gasket, which will ultimately destroy it. But those products that DO over-swell do it for a reason! Just like with flat-tire fix "goo" or "slime" products, those over-swell products have their place, they're only intended as a stop-gap, but some less-savvy people truly believe it's a permanent fix.

The chemical AT-205 uses rejuvenates gaskets. It re-plumps closer to their original size but, per their own words, won't over-swell a gasket. You can use it in trannies, crankcase, or hydraulics at their disclosed amount. You can use it at any point between fluid changes, it doesn't hurt to leave it in your fluid. For a tiny leak like yours, which could very well be a case of gasket shrinkage with age and/or lack of significant mileage, there's a solid chance there's nothing to lose by trying it and it'll fix your problem.

But @bfunke is 100% correct that this is a miniscule leak and wouldn't hurt to leave alone either. And definitely right that taking corrective action (replacing the tube gaskets) is a 2-3 hour ordeal requiring about $150 in parts or so (if memory serves).

I will say, there are hardcore gearheads on other forums like Ih8mud who swear by AT-205, recommend the hell out of it for small leaks like this, in the power steering reservoir for rack leaks, and for rear main seal leaks. Those guys claim to have seen this fix a wide array of issues as long as gaskets aren't torn or blown out. Those are the kind of people I tend to listen to on this stuff, the gearheads who drive Toyotas, not Amazon reviews where you have idiots who actually expect this product to fix a puncture in their oil pan or magically repair a blown head gasket - as much as it pains me to say it, those people exist! They're often the ones leaving 1-2 star reviews.

FYI: One 8oz bottle of AT-205 is enough to treat 6qt of oil. I wasn't going to buy two full bottles to cover the last half-quart. My results with the product were pretty solid, it definitely stopped all of my valve cover leaks it could. The last little dribble of oil it couldn't fix was actually coming from the corners of the valve cover gasket where a previous mechanic did a piss-poor job of FIPG'ing the corners. They also left the gasket-washers off the bolts, and generally did a shit job.

 

This is great! I think the same way, I'm not near as familiar with this stuff as you are but I will dive in with instructions. These are the responses people need to see to their shitty Amazon reviews but those are also the sort of people that will argue their non real life based pint til they are blue in the face or they get their ass kicked because they just wouldn't shut the hell up. Nobody really listens to those types.
Thank you for the responses @shifty`