Tundra v8 better mpg

Not true at all. Lifting your truck and installing larger, heavier tires, puts more load on the engine, meaning you have to burn more fuel to achieve the same amount of work. Regearing helps reduce the load on the engine making it easier to push your truck along.

There is a reason everybody's fuel economy takes a sh!t once they do a lift and big tires.

 

Until they run you off the road and try and shoot you. People are crazy these days.

 

You are taking about an event so rare that you would be a fool to worry about it.

In fact, the odds are about 1000x higher that you'd die in a regular traffic accident on a given day than be shot at or run off the road by another driver.

 

If you define the work being done as "going down the road at a particular speed" then yes, your engine will use more fuel to accomplish that.

The ecu can't change the gear ratios in the transmission. Unless you spend all your time driving in city streets under 45mph then the ecu changing shift points is going to do very little for you. Going down the highway at 65 is going to have you in 6th gear no matter what.

If your fuel economy didn't change then i suspect either you didn't go to a much larger tire, or your driving habits have changed to be less aggressive.

 

Ok. After a tank of fuel of driving slightly differently, I am getting better fuel economy in my Tundra. I went from 14 to mid 16. My new method:

1. Leave it in S5 until 45-50mph
2. Accelerate up to speed more quickly.
3. Drive the speed limit.

The problem with driving in D is that when you try to be gentle with it around town, it will shift all the way to 6th gear, which is well outside of the drivetrain's power band for non-highway speeds. So your truck bogs down in 6th until it decides to upshift. I'm finding that keeping the engine in slightly higher RPMs during cruising helps it to hold the gear and prevents this bog down-then upshift pattern, which is worse for economy than cruising in a lower gear and making it upshift when needed.

This is how I drove in my old 4runner, too. I kept it in S4 (it's a 5 speed) until hitting 45mph. That thing would try to shift to 5th (the overdrive gear) as soon as you hit 30mph. This is why most people consider it a slug that can't get out of its own way.

It's not like I turned my truck into a Prius, but for those of us with lifts, armor, and big LT tires, it's a pretty easy way to move back into the stock fuel economy range.

 

1. We aren't talking about manually selecting gears. You were the one making claims about the ECU changing shift points.

2. There is a such thing as gears being too high of a ratio. You can't just keep making your final drive ratio higher and higher and expect better and better fuel economy. It is a balancing act to find the best efficiency. And most often, putting larger diameter, heavier tires and a lift puts enough extra load on the engine that a lower differential gear ratio is required to maintain efficiency.

3. Maybe you did find that perfect magic tire that lets you go larger without sacrificing fuel economy, but I'm doubtful.

 

Wouldn't the easy way to fix this be with a throttle mapping mod (like Pedal Commander), or better yet a tune? Or just push the tow-haul button?

 

I believe tow-haul uses engine breaking when coasting, which is counter productive to the goal. Slightly more of the go-pedal until reaching speed is easier to me than adding a pedal commander. The pedal commander also does nothing to keep you from hitting 6th gear around town.

This is easy enough for me. I learned on a manual and enjoy rowing gears anyway. Your mileage may vary.

 

Nope, never gonna help.

That's where the 'concentration' comes in.
Need to slowly accelerate watching that MPG meter and trying to optimize there.

If you're seeing 16+ now, you'll see 17's+ with the aforementioned.

 

Not sure what you’re trying to say here. I’m telling you what worked for me, not what might work.

Mid 16s is better than stock EPA numbers, and I’m on skinny 35s with armor, a retractable bed cover, and a dual battery setup.

Accelerating to speed faster gives me better numbers than babying it for longer.

 

Yea but the supercharger would sound alot more sexy than regear

 

I mean, aslong as you arent in the passing lane there shouldn’t be big problem.

 

This looks very cool. I'm curious to hear if you determine a difference in gas mileage. I believe the new 2022 Tundra has one that deploys at a certain speed and I don't know if this is now featured on 2022 models either for handling or mileage (or both) reasons.

I've been reading this thread with interest. On long rides, for something to do, I test what MPG's I'll get. The truck is all stock (except Diamondback on back), on long drives at ~65ish I can get usually get around ~19-20. If I draft (not too close) behind semi trucks I've gotten 21.

Very cool install!

 

I did trim the ends better and got a chance to try it out yesterday. Pulling a small trailer with firewood with total weight of ~1,000 pounds Lie-O-meter sez 21.5 MPG over a twentysome mile stretch with cruise set at 58. Really to good scientific way to compare before and after. I have thought of one way to test drag. There's a decent sized hill with a long flat stretch at the bottom. Start at the top coasting and see how fast and far I go before it coasts to a stop. Do this a few times then remove the air dam and repeat the test. Of course doing this will use as much gas as I'm likely to save in a year's driving.

 

Do both

 

Picked up over 1MPG moving back to a narrower tire and forged wheels ... still running 34s, but the 285/75 KO2s on Rock Warrior wheels are less work for the engine compared to the 295/60 Wild Peaks on 20" Methods.

Went from 12.xMPG to ~14.1MPG avg.

If I could just sell the damn GFC camper and go back to a traditional cap I'd probably pick up another 1-2MPGs on weight/aerodynamic improvements.

 

I live in the Interior of British Columbia Canada.It is probably the Rust Capital of the World, with all the sand and salt that causes corrosion in the winter time.Especially on the brakes of my Tundra, which if I don't maintain annually by taking them apart and cleaning them,I'd be going through brake calipers, pads rotors left right and center.That is the only way I get any decent life out of them.
Just have use your own judgment.
I'm not one to believe that I can get any sort of life span that Toyota expects me to get
in the area I live unless I do my part and help keep them salt and sand free.
I also probably live the worst place that you could possibly live if you ever expect to get any type of good gas mileage.
I get maybe maybe 12to 14 miles to the gallon.Driving the Mountains back and fourth through Highway to Hell..
But it is what it is..I still believe Toyota Tacomas Tundras Land Cruisers are the best most dependable trucks and "jeeps" made.
Tundra aren't perfect, but with proper knowledge of certain of terrain climate conditions limitations on parts over that aspect and proper maintenance they last a long long time abd yiu come to terms with the gas. mileage.Rule number 1 driving a Tundra..Drive 80km an hour, take your time relax have fun and enjoy the ride.
There is certainly things that I have done to my truck add to the fuel expense.
But one thing I don't do is speed.
Driving those MTN's of BC regularly ate going to kill you in the pocket book. Not only for fuel costs but for increased wear and tear.
Overall
I'm happy with it.

 

I live in the okanagan and get pretty good mileage. We could take a look over your truck to see if theres something we could do or fix. My current tundra was inspected by the dealer i bought it off of as 100% fixed up and ive found well over 2500 in bad parts that all affected the mileage. Im running 285/75r18 on stock 5 spoke wheels and get 12.5L/100km traveling without slowing down.

 

That's 18.8mpg in freedom units. Which is about what I get most of the time averaged over a full tank.