What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Also I have fox rear shocks. Tundra is now blocked on the squat. Not sure what the next step is with Deaver, probably needs a phone call since the email exchange has me wondering what to do.

 

You’d be able to see over the wheel well arch wouldn’t you?

 

You are fairly close to the top? Can you employ your thumb and index finger as a rough caliper for the outside distance? The void will be just under. Only thing to be aware of is you could run into some random bracing, but you can drill that as well if it happens.

 

True you can see the taillight from underneath and now that I think about it, when I pulled mine and screwed in the relay for the DIR harness there so I probably won’t be able to see much but I’ll check it out anyways.

 

I'll look for a pic - I don't think you can see anything.

not the angle we were looking for.

 

I posted that when I first started the truck after cleanup. It has since dropped back down close to normal. I had thought about a reset, but it never threw any codes, so fuggit. I did however notice a bump in my MPG’s today. Shoulda done that long ago.

negative cable comes off for electrical work but I was just unplugging stuff. And always for welding sometimes.

 

I'm so lucky these trucks aren't terribly sensitive. I've started welding several times before remembering to pull the neg cable and no issues.

 

Same. As long as you’re not welding on the fuel tank, or standing in a puddle of water you should be good.

Wait….. were you the one that got shocked by his wirefeed welder not long ago?

 

Guilty, I was trying to control the gun and got a tad intimate.

 

its a tumor on the throttle plate itself. It might rob a little power from full throttle, but gm put one on for a reason.

just curious whether the computer could figure out what to do with it. The s10 guys complain about a drop in economy after removal, maybe adding one will eek out and extra mile for each tank…dunno. Sometimes my mind like to ask dumb questions, and i stew on it for a bit.

 

Replaced both driver side O2 sensors. Will do passengers another day. I bought some special sockets for rounded off nuts, but one of them still wouldn’t come off. Was about to give up because one socket was too big and the other too small. Then I grabbed an American size socket and it was just perfect to hammer on. Hopefully I’ll get my check engine light off soon.

 

Made v4 of the DIY seat risers, with custom stainless hardware (right angle grinder ftw). No pics. But now at about 5/8" rise instead of 1" (v3 was 3/4"). Much happier seating position wise.

I may take the grinder to more of the hardware that showed up after about three weeks. To see if I can get it slightly lower.

 

I purchased a regular bed yesterday and will be getting rid of this one pretty soon within the next couple weeks. I haven’t had much luck posting it for sale so if somebody wants it you can have it. I’m located in the Bay Area. I can drive to your place and you can help me take it off there if you cover gas other wise it will get scrapped. I rather give it to someone to use it.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/stepside-bed.98883/#post-2569122

 

There HAS to be someone out there that needs this bed. I'd hate to see it get scrapped. Very generous offer you're making.

 

yeah I really don’t want to scrap it but I’m limited on space otherwise I would hold it. I scrap it and that’s 1 less in existence. That’s how I see it.

 

I went the other direction when I found a rust free step-side bed. Made the old bed into a trailer. (the wheel is actually centered).

 

This is awesome.

 

Lol that’s really cool

 

I saw my truck today. Even got to touch her a little.

 

I may leave my seat risers on V4. Driving around the last couple days and haven't felt the need to adjust anything.

Previously I'd want to bring the back of the seat up a little to level things out. Plus I'd have to bring the steering wheel up a notch for leg clearance.

 

Oh yeah, I need stainless brake lines for the rear. But I’m out of my depth on that. They are drums so is it a cable inside a sleeve or does the hydraulic pressure go to the drum before it’s converted to mechanical force?

 

No, you don't need stainless steel brake lines for the rear. You can upgrade the rubber line that goes from the LSPV hard line to the tee at the center of the rear axle, and that's it.

The hard lines that go from the center tee to the drums will suffice. The brake fluid goes through the hard lines to the wheel cylinders, which expand when you apply brake pressure and cause the brake shoes to go outwards and apply friction to the drums. I replaced my hard lines with custom stainless steel brake lines ONLY because I needed banjo fittings for the rear disc conversion.

As I said, the only thing you'd want to upgrade is the rubber line from the LSPV to the center tee on the rear axle. This is what I have, the 12" FF hose. https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/stainless-braided-brake-hoses/ @alb1k has something similar.

 

Thanks @des2mtn. You really won’t let me waste money? Don’t I need a bit more length if I get the leaf pack fixed and my ass off the ground?

 

I'm here to keep you in check -- partially because I've been down some of these rabbit holes before, and because my truck is trail tested.

The link I sent has a little extra length over the stock rubber line. I don't know of the top of my head if you need an extra male to male adapter or something - if so it should be M10 x 1.0 thread. In reality, you shouldn't even need a longer line unless you're running a shock relocation or spring-under-axle, which will increase your travel. But the stainless steel is an "upgrade" over the rubber. Even with a new leaf pack, you're only going to have so much droop and the brake line will only go so far because of the shocks being in the stock location.

 

@des2mtn is exactly right. Get the one stainless line from Archive. I'll find a pic - it's more than you will ever need.

 

or get that, I didn't read everything.

 

Shipping is kinda high. They want $19 to ship a $26 part.

 

See that single stainless line in the middle. It's like 4" over stock and that's it.

 

Link?

 

I added it to the springs or hangers or something. Email Eric, it's not a standalone website item.

https://archivegarage.com/explore-archive/ols/categories/tundra-2000-2006