Dash lights dimmer switch wiring

20007 5.7L. Does anyone have the wiring diagram that shows the colors going into the dimmer wheel from dash lights. Also, is this switch supposed to be illuminated? (mine is currently not).

Long story short, I shorted out the negative side of the illumination circuit (no-fuse to blow) and currently have the illumination (AC/4x4/rear window/etc) switches grounded to the body. This is working but the ground needs to go through the dimmer wheel in order to dim.

 

The dimmer is shown in the bottom right corner. I believe the dimmer signal runs through the cluster and the red wire coming out of the bottom left corner of the cluster runs to the "ground block" for all the switches ect in the Illumination circuit.

 

This is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you. Do you happen to have a higher quality version of it though? I can't make out any of the labels.

 

Nevermind. I found HQ version here: tundras.com/threads/ultimate-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

Yes sorry I just ripped it from the PDF really quick. Glad you found a better copy.
If I have time I could do a high res one

 

After trying to connect the ground circuit of the illumination negative side to each one of the dimmer switch wires I think I came to the realization that the switches/clock/ac lights do not have dimming ability. It appears that the dimmer only dims the speedometer and gauges (which also stay lit all the time, headlights on or not.).

If someone could confirm that the AC controls/4wd/clock do not react to the dimmer dial in a 07 that would put my mind at ease. For now I am done with this experiment.

 

All of the switches and buttons including the AC panel are on the dimmer circuit.

 

The red wire coming out of the bottom of the cluster controls all the buttons switches ect.

The dimmer feeds the signal through the cluster and down to all the switches.

 

Hmm. I tired connecting the negative side of some of the switches right to each of the 4 wires coming out of the dimmer switch and couldnt get them them dim. Maybe something happens inside the cluster that changes the voltage going through the red wire. Looks like I'll have to tap into pin 37 where the red come out of the cluster.

 

I would not be surprised to learn the dimmer just feeds a signal into the cluster and the cluster then dims the circuit. I would definitely get a multimeter on the Red wire labeled ILL- coming from the cluster. It seems to control the ground to all the lights as the other side of the Lights are wired directly to power/fuses.

 

Yep. I think the A/D signal is an analog digital converter that goes into the cluster and the cluster outputs to the Red wire. If I mess with it more I'll update here.

 

Found the problem today. Took apart the entire dash to get to the Red wire labeled ILL- coming from the cluster. Nothing. Opened up the cluster to dive deeper and found my problem. I think when I shorted out and started this problem the Analog Digital converter blew up. See picture. I thought for a moment I could tie into the leds on the cluster themselves but they must be a different type of bulb or at a different voltage, they would not power the switch backlights.

At this point I am just happy to have gotten the cluster back together successfully.

I guess if I wanted to fix this issue I have 2 options. 1) new cluster with a functioning A/D converter. 2) buy an A/D converter and wire it in direct series between the dimmer switch and switch light circuit.

For now though I feel as though I've done enough to work on this problem and can live with non-dimming switches (note: they still work, as I tied them straight to ground, they just don't dim like they should).

 

Odds are that you can find that chip and do a board level fix. Are there any readable numbers on that chip. It's a N channel MOSFET.
the large tab is ground and heatsink, the 3 pins are soldered into the holes of the board.


But, you need to be very good with de-soldering, & soldering. It's 4 pins, it is doable.
I used to do this type of maintenance when I was at ABC!
You could always hit up a junkyard and buy a used console.
See if you can pull some numbers..

 

Best I can tell it is a K1284 (though the 84 portion is pretty obscured).

Having a hard time finding this piece online. This one on ebay is the only I found for $25 shipped: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325130216048


Any suggestions where to source this?

Also I could just wire this thing directly between the dimmer switch and illumination circuit (red wire) and get the same effect. I see no reason it needs to be on the cluster board. Are there other components that will do the same job? I guess I just need something that will output 0-12V depending on input? This stuff is a little beyond me.


I am also considering just finding an optitron cluster if I can't source one of these components for cheap.

 

Was about to say it wasn't an ADC, but KK6PD nailed it. Look up the datasheet for K1284 and find an equivalent on Mouser or Digikey.

Before doing that probe for continuity on the traces next to the transistor. Kind of looks like they got blown or bridged.

 

I've been going thru suppliers, looks like https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/transistors/mosfet/?series=IRF has them not in stock... there several different packages available, you will need one that matches the one you have...
this one, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...rs/IRF9630STRLPBF?qs=I1ZA2VTqfvQm6TqyUcJmUg==
The case style is "D2PAK-3" part number "2SK1284" ....Finding one may take a bit of time.
I looked at the ebay listing $9.21 is a great price, shipping for $13 sucks, but the "Chip Shortage Thing" may make this a Best Buy!!

Removing and installing may look daunting, But... I can walk you through it!
Let me know what you might want to do!!

 

Would I be able to get this one (same data sheet, just a different case, it looks like) and not wire it to the cluster panel. I would wire it up one side hooked to the dimmer output, one to ground, and one that outputs in place of the red ILL- wire. I would bypass the cluster all together. As far as I can tell all the cluster is doing is providing a grounding point. $11 shipped.

Am I missing something here? Also researching Optitron Clusters in the meantime, looks like one can be had for less than $100 on car-part.com. Might be worth it if I'm already taking the cluster out again.

 

Update: Just scoured ebay and found this Optiron Cluster. $103 shipped. Couldn't pass it up. It should fix my illumination problem and then some! What really sold me was gaining the ability to adjust things like auto headlight off, door locks, etc. I will update when it arrives and is put in! Should be here by May 6th!! Kind of bought on a whim, hoping I don't have any issues with fuel tank reading the wrong level, but from what I saw that was only for Flex Fuel donors. Also need to figure out how to have it reprogrammed to show my mileage (low priority, not selling anytime soon, at it's age it's actually exempt from DMV odometer readings in FL.)


https://www.ebay.com/itm/363680335222

 

Well this issue can be closed out.

Opitiron cluster arrived today. 10 minute install. Disconnected my override ground to ILL- circuit and the switches function off the dimmer dial now. As a side bonus I have a fancy new cluster. One cool thing about this cluster is it lets you change the headlight timeout time/courtesy timeout time/ and change a single unlock keyfob press to unlock just the driver or all 4 doors. Handy!

See some pictures below of before/after pictures.

There is at least one more optitron cluster on ebay in the $100-$120 price range, it just takes going through pictures to figure out which listings have it.

As a disclaimer. I know my mileage is now incorrect. I have a sticker on order to put on the door jam per DMV requirements. In the state of FL you are also exempt from reporting mileage on a vehicle this old. If I did want to fix there are a few options. Locally there is a shop that will reprogram for $150 and there a few ship to them options that come in around $100. I'm not worried about it for the time being. She shows 42k miles younger.

Next project, 2.5gen steering wheel with audio controls!

 

I had my cluster programmed from this seller from Florida :
https://ebay.com/usr/odometersolutions

 

I was actually considering that guy. For now I will just go with this cheap solution until the incorrect milage bothers me enough to get it changed. (Or I get brave enough to try to get the parts together to build my own EPROMM reprogrammer and DIY)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202152052804?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT