1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

@NUDRAT - here in SC, a large bag of centipede seed is like $300

 

We get em for free.

 

Yes, that's after I had the ducts hung in the attic, and had a new inside unit installed. They did a pretty good job with the ducts in my opinion. The pictures I posted of the fiberglass issue is from the original installer. The guy I had do this work said to fix that mess the right way would involve tearing out the sheetrock.

 

I like old proven stuff. Old un-remodled house. 18 year old Toyotas. Old stuff, I have tolerance for imperfect. New stuff I'm intolerant of less than perfect, so I keep away from new stuff mostly.

 

My brother needs 5x10 of his ceiling replaced because of a condensation leak in a low spot. I’d rather take the time to scrape the popcorn off the ceiling, because popcorn is terrible. Than try to match the surrounding, he’s obviously a stick in the mud. We got his window humidity leak fixed, and got the kinks out of some of the ducts. But he’s a dbag, so i’ll wait for him to beg.

 

Anyone ever change the Fuel Injection Throttle Control Actuator? I think it is also called the throttle control motor?

A mechanic said he hears it running whenever the car has power and I can hear it too, and my issues are a boggy startup that sometimes will cut off. There is also some fuel smell and smoke at cold starts. I usually just tap the gas pedal on boggy start ups and the rpms will level off and then the truck drives normal. Sometimes it will cut off in standstill traffic or backing out of a parking space. Never once its really moving. Getting all cylinder misfire codes as well with the check engine light. Damn screws for the outside of this motor casing are phillips head and they aren't budging right now. I also notice when I fill my gas tank it takes a very long time for the needle to get to full, maybe that has something to do with the problem? Any ideas? Here is a video of the behavior.

https://youtu.be/W1BMNppGWnQ

It looks like this.

 

Maybe this is why the Tundra cost so much to insure?
https://youtu.be/gUhFJCOR0LA?t=336

 

@empty_lord seen on the sidelines waiting to place a bid...

 

.....

 

It looks like the Tundra did fine. Wouldn't that help our rates? I know in the other video the Tundra scored well. I've not seen this one before.

 

I remember reading when the Tundra AC first came out that it was the only extra cab pickup with rear opening doors that had a good crash rating. The ferds and chebbys were folding up like cheap lawn chairs. Our trucks are expensive to insure because of cost to repair and commonality. They make a million chebbys (GM) and a million ferds a year. Only a couple hundred thousand Tundys. Less trucks to get parts from. Less trucks to justify parts production and aftermarket support.

 

Feel like a cheating slut working on this Mopar. UGH. Icky.



Anyways extra cash flow is nice and I get sunshine

 

looks like a pentastar

 

At least it's a "tolerable" color.



Old spark plugs are suspected of being original. Sufficiently gapped!


Ruthenium NGKs are going back in.

 

Recognized the intake layout. My Daughter and wife both have Pentastar V6’s in their Jeeps. Ones a 3.2, ones a 3.6. Great motors, daughters had a cam follower failure that I replaced. Did plugs and intake gaskets while I was in there. Did the wife’s plugs and intake gaskets not too long ago. Had to replace the thermostat housing on the wife’s too.

 

That number 3 plug. Yikes. Should run a lot better now.

 

Looking for opinions on what to do with this gap between the stucco and wood finish of the garage. The old rotted trim was removed, which had stucco filling this gap and covering part of the old trim. I think running a bead of caulk and painting might not look very good and so Im leaning towards taping off the trim and filling with just enough stucco and painting.
Thoughts?

 

Will the stucco have enough strength as a gap filler? Or just crumble over time? Perhaps a closely color matched outdoor caulk / elastomeric would fill the gap and stand up to the elements.

 

This is the sort of shit that comes from not having proper winter. Gotta have a hard freeze for a couple days or the GD bugs turn into animals.
Jeebus. I'd carry a shotgun on a sling if shit like that just ran around here.

 

Great find! You know I'm watching this and thinking I REALLY need some TRD coils to go with my Bilstein 4600s to get some lift back in the front end. It's too bad Toyota doesn't sell them anymore.

Also, that guy's knee caps are @#$%!.

 

If it were me, I'd go with something weatherproof and paintable with a 20yr+ rating on it. I've used Dynaflex 230 for exterior stuff in the past, but my personal preference, and what I used where my basement meets trim on my house exterior is the Sikaflex product line. I used their construction sealant (here) for applications like yours, and I used their crack flex product (here) on my slab in a couple of places. They have an application chart (here) and you can buy their products in the concrete section at the big orange store last I was there, at least for the crack flex. Sika makes good stuff, but both the Dynaflex and Sika products I'm talking about are elastomeric.

 

The gap is small, that is a quarter in the pic. Stucco very well may just crumble.

Thanks. I have used some version of sikaflex on my pool deck but I remember it being very low viscosity and that makes me wonder if it will just run down the crack rather than grab the wall like caulk. Likely I was using a different version of the sika than your suggestion.
Paint it the stucco color or the trim color?

edit: looked at that specific sika product and it looks like a go

 

I've been searching like a good boy, but I'm still asking. I'm going to R and R my front brake lines.

@Darkness had me scratching my head because he mentioned a banjo bolt/fitting and I wasn't seeing that anywhere. Then I realized it was a mod. I don't plan to do that.

Correct me if I'm wrong:

1. The hard lines on the 05 calipers do not have an aftermarket upgrade that is bolt on (like a flex/soft line).
2. Braided lines are available either extended or stock length for replacement between the caliper hard line and the frame hard line.
3. If I want to replace my lines - Just get new OEM hard lines at the caliper and whatever braided lines I decide. No magic here?

 

If you reach out to Solo, they have a braided line that has the correct elbow fitting at the caliper end and is long enough to replace the hard line and rubber line. It goes from caliper to the hard line on the frame.

 

Paint the caulk the stucco color. You have a clean line at the door frame.

 

Thank you brother. Calling them now.

 

Got the last set in stock - thanks again @Darkness !

 

I'm here every weeknight, don't forget to tip your waitresses.