Fuel Injection Throttle Control Actuator

Anyone ever change the Fuel Injection Throttle Control Actuator? Is it on the outside of the throttle body or inside? I think it is also called the throttle control motor?

A mechanic said he hears it running whenever the car has power, and my issues are a boggy startup that sometimes will cut off. There is also some fuel smell and smoke at cold starts. I usually just tap the gas pedal on boggy start ups and the rpms will level off and then the truck drives normal. Getting all cylinder misfire codes, but again thats at startup.

It looks like this.

 

Since we have cable actuated TB’s i guess thats the idle air control motor. Rock auto has em for $310. But if you call it a throttle body motor its $217?

I only see one motor on mine. Maybe 2000 is different?

 

Yea thats where I was looking. Just wondering if that part goes bad often and easy to replace. Seems like hitting the gas pedal is basically a manual override for the throttle when at idle or startup.

 

Give the throttle body and sensors a good cleaning, see if it gets better.

other people here have mentioned the fuel smell, mine doesnt do it, and does the smoke smell like burnt oil?

 

I clean throttle and sensors. I can hear the throttle control motor running when I turn on the battery. The enclosure has phillips head screws and they are not turning easy. Seems like they could get stripped pretty easily. Maybe I should replace the whole throttle body.

 

Whats wrong with hearing it? Is it obnoxious? Maybe the gears need grease and its trying too hard to center itself… we need more. Gotta give us a vid. And be willing to take measurements. Not really sure where to start yet. Is the engine stumbling? Is this noisy motor an issue to the performance of the engine?
Sometimes it helps to moderately whack a screw while everythings cold to loosen it. If that doesnt work, a little heat might.

 

When the battery is connected to motor seems to run, but the engine is not running. Could this mean it needs to be replaced. I am having major starting issues, always gotta tap the gas pedal at startup or the rpms drop super low and it cuts off. Here is a video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/W1BMNppGWnQ?feature=share

 

from another thread for relevance....

Whenever presented with this type situation, my best results happened after banging screws into submission. By that I mean, take a phillips screw driver that properly fits the screw pattern and with a hammer tap/bop the screws with decent force a few times. Then with properly headed phillips screw driver, push with forceful pressure on screw driver head as you attempt to extract screw.

If you do finally get it off, I suggest bench testing as shown in below video. Whether bench testing or unplugging and testing on truck, the motor conductor colors are White(negative) and Red(positive)....for the magnetic clutch it's Blue/White(negative) and Blue/Black(positive).