Tundra v8 better mpg

My 4.6 was horrible too. Damn shame, I really liked that engine, very smooth, but I simply could not get decent economy out of it. Light foot, downhill, tailwind, Michi-weenie tires, no matter.

The extra trans ratio in the 5.7 certainly helps.

 

He speaks the truth.

Resonance and harmonics. Kinda like driving around in an acoustic guitar.

 

Yup, it came to me that we talk about drone and some have never heard of it.
That's my interpretation. Kinda...

 

I was looking at crate motors today from Chevy.
My dream is to replace the LS1 in my WS6 someday with an all aluminum 427 LS7 with factory blower.
It would fit and be forty pounds lighter while giving out a comfy 700 hp.
Chevy also sells a 602 incher that pumps out something like 850 HP in street trim.
Gotta love GM.

 

Tires are responsible for at least 30% of the gas you use. So, getting good tires for mpg purpose matters. Michelin Defenders LTX MS are low rolling resistance tires that will increase your mpg by 3-4 mpg if you drive responsibly. If you add any straight through muffler and a K&N filter it will add too. I still need my dual exhaust but with the K&N filter and Michelin defender tires this is my new combined mpg… 18.4mpg.

Just like the manual transmission 4x4 Tacomas. Can I ask for any better? Not sure.

 

and that 602 is N/A...on pump gas.

you might need a trans cooler tho'. just sayin'

 

Yesterdays trip. I started out full.
I seem to get at least 100km about 60 miles before the fuel gauge starts moving.
And then it really moves ....8^( -
Combination of town and hwy 65-80 mph
That's just under 19 mpg - I will take it.

 

Yep. 442s only had 400s or 455s I believe. The Olds 442 was originally a sport package for the Cutlass. It means 4 speed, 4 barrel carb, dual exhaust. But in 1967 (?) it became its own model that you could order with an automatic transmission. It was never an engine size. Very common misconception.

 

So true... rolling resistance is important if you are driving slow. At high speeds aero takes over, and the Tundra is aero like a brick. For people who just drive on the street, lowering makes more sense than a lift. Wide and low profile tires are fine for MPG if you get the right ones. A topper that fits the back of the cab and tapers down and in would help a good amount at high speeds as well... but nobody makes them.

People worry about tire weight, but that isn't it. There is a big variation due to compounds and construction... even among very similar looking tires... that can make a big difference in rolling resistance. My 35x13 Hankook ATMs that weigh over double the stock Bridgestones, actually beat them for MPG around town. Lots of hills, not many stoplights, 30-50 mph, 18+ MPG. Never get close to that at 80 though!... unless it's downhill with a tailwind. I got over 30 MPG on a 75 mile trip once, 3.5k ft elevation drop, 40 mph tailwind.

Want good MPG? I've seen reports that the new Maverick hybrid pickup (FWD, $20k !?) gets a ridiculous 33 hwy, 42 city EPA... and actually beats those numbers in the real world.

 

This has not been my experience, at least after a lift and some other mods. After adding a 2” lift up front, an RCI skid, dual battery setup, and a retractable bed cover, I only got 0.3 mpg better (hand calculated and corrected for tire size) going from a set of 285/75R18 Duratracs that weigh 65lbs each back to the stock Michelins (41lbs each). Thought I’d save some money going back to the stock tires, it was barely any different. I waited until I refilled my tank and used the whole tank to calculate efficiency on each set of tires.

To me, a lift/level has a far bigger effect than unsprung tire mass. 2” higher up front lost me about 2mpg, and going back to stock tires with the lift still in place gave me 0.3 mpg more over a whole tank of fuel.

 

Zero surprise there. Amazing how much guys will pay/sacrifice for the aesthetics of a 2"+ front lift. Most will never even utilize that increase in suspension height given that they are pavement queens.

 

Yep. And that’s fine; if you are willing to pay for the “stance”, more power to you I guess.

For me, the ample increase in suspension travel that the TRD Fox kit offers is worth the price of admission.

 

+1...totally get that, not the hill I'll die on; with $5 gas on the horizon it simply isn't worth it to me.

I'd like the even stance, alas....

 

Pavement queens should be looking at a 1/3 lower, rather than a 3/1 lift.

 

I resemble the pavement queen remark

would a 1/3 lower would it be possible to preserve the towing capacity or payload?

 

Just using airbags in the rear should do the trick when you are loaded.

A quick google search shows that 2/4 lowering kits are popular.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/belltech-tundra-lowering-kit-2-inch-front-4-inch-rear-441.html
https://sosperformance.com/products/2-front-slash-4-rear-lowering-kit-fits-2007-16-tundra-tr2051

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkgOw9JkqI8

 

I just threw on Michelin LTX AT2 275/65r18 and went for a little ride on the highway with a slightly heavy foot. I got to say the ride is night and day better compared to the falken wild peak I hat on previously Granted that was an LT Tire one size up but I’m very impressed with theseMichelin‘s.

 

Ive been getting stuff together to make an electric fan kit to see what it does to the mileage on the truck. I plan on using 16" flexalite fans paired with their variable rate controller which goes from a soft start 60% to max pull. I haven't found the running on/off temps that factory runs on the clutch fan yet which I normally would like to be just better then those but the factory fan is a massive draw on these trucks. having 6000cfm on a shroud constant pull at all speeds should be plenty to take care of that.

Ive often wondered why there aren't more conversion kits for electric steering as well. thoughts for the future.

 

The factory fan is multi-stage I think. Not just on/off. As for temp, the coolant stays between 193-199 when warmed up. It's also the reason active grille shutters or a grille block won't work. I tried a few years back. Even mostly blocked off the engine coolant never passed 205, though granted it was winter... the fan roar was noticeable at 70 mph and mpg was all the worse for it. Partly it's the thing calibrated to a moderate increase in air temperature due to large amounts of air passing fast. Block the grill, air slows down then absorbs more in the radiator, heats up the tstat in the clutch, fan roars.

Wasn't dirtydeeds working on an electric fan kit at one point?

 

The temp I am looking for though is not at the coolant but at the radiator inlet where the sensor will be. The safe start temp is 190 but that means every time the thermostat opens the fan will run without fail. which yes, that is definitely a safe plan but I was hoping to use the radiators ability to use flowing air for some of the cooling to save on stress and prevent fueling for heat.

 

To the ops point, When mine was bone stock i got 15 city and 19/20 highway

 

I forgot there are tundras without the 5.7 lol

 

When i did my 2 in level , had zero effect on my mpg. Like literally none

 

Doing a 2 inch level on mine soon will let you guys know if I see a drop in mpg

 

I’m skeptical. Did you control for only the level? How many miles (or full tanks of fuel) did you drive before and after? What other changes were made? What time of year? Exact same driving habits?

Raising that big fat front end to where it is more perpendicular to the road changes the wind drag profile above and below the truck. If you’re a mostly city driver where you’re driving at lower speeds and drag isn’t a factor, I’d buy it. At highway speeds, I have a really hard time believing that leveling is a non-factor.

 

I wish I'd tested mine... stock, big ATs, and now a front lift.

I think we could do decent controlled tests using the computer. Pick a road with little traffic, fairly flat, not too windy. Reset the computer, drive one direction at a fixed speed (a few miles), note your MPG, turn around and go the other direction. Repeat a few times.

 

That's why I recommended testing. Way too many variables from one fill up to the next.

 

It's definitely not going Reward you with better mileage.

Let us know what you experience!

 

Where'd you get those wheel well flares? I want some of those! Those look great with black rims especially.

 

Yes it was literally the only mod i made at the time. I already had 275/60r20 tires on it at the time and i had it that way for a good 5 or 6 months before changing anything else.

I drive almost all highway because i live west of great salt lake so i drive 25 miles one way to work on i80 , generally no traffic this side of the lake , 80-85mph commute.