DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

37x12.50 r17 geolanders

 

Damn that looks good. How you liking those geolanders?

 

Thanks man..haven't hit the dirt with them yet..just put them on but damn they look good and feel good so far..keep you posted

 

Added front bumper shims, wasn’t too bad of an install. One step closer, next up, we’ll have to do the BMC.

Probably will be able to mount tires next week.

Just waiting on my ET splined lugs. Do we need ET lugs? Are the OEM lugs ET?

 

OEM are not ET lugs. Whether or not you need ET depends on the wheel. I have heard of problems with ET lug ends (the thinner, extended part) breaking off and hindering wheel removal. But, I ran them for several years w/o issue. I also replaced them every +/- 18 months.

 

Are you still running them Warren? I ordered regular length lugs and then saw I might need ET lugs.

They’re the procomp splined lugs, but from what I’m reading, people are saying that as long as you can get 10+ threads when screwing the lugs, it’ll be strong enough?

 

Not running them now, the wheels I have now (OMF) don't require ET lugs. I ran them with Method wheels. I can't say for sure but 10+ threads sounds OK

 

What wheels would actually require ET lugs?

 

I believe it's standard practice for Methods but I don't know about other manufacturers. What wheels are you running?

 

Gonna be running ProComp 41 Series Phaser 18x9; looked at specs and doesn’t seem like anything calls for ET.

 

@pvn.beluga
I don’t think I’ve seen wheels specifically call for ET lugs. More something that’s “trial and error” once you have the wheels.

Take a single ET lug and insert it into the lug opening. If the ET section sticks out of the back of the wheel then do not use them and use regular non ET spline lugs.
If it doesn’t stick out the back then you’re in good shape to use them for the extra thread engagement.

But as mentioned - be aware the ET section has broken off causing problems to remove wheels.

For what it’s worth: I’m using ET lugs with my Method wheels.

 

On ET lug nuts, you should test the diameter of the lug hole on the backside of the wheel. Also, different wall thicknesses of material or the O.D. of the extended portion are available and it would be best to get maximun wall thickness that will still clear the lug hole in the wheel from the back. There is a thread in here somewhere regarding lug bolt replacement too. Basically, there is a site to order perfect length lug studs from Japan in order to get proper thread engagment with aftermarket rims. You can also find the minimum thread engagment on the web. Last thing you want is to lose a GD wheel/tire while truckin'!

 

Found the thread talking about ET lugs guys!

 

The site for the proper hub bolt noted in post #1902 is www.blackhawkjapan.com and the part number is M14xP1.5 SBLC., can't remember exactly, but pretty sure only the front come up a bit short without ET lug nuts, so only order 10 pcs. if you want to upgrade.

 

2 year warranty on the Pro Eagle vs 1 on the CAT, but the price difference is significant.

 

Good looking truck right there

 

And, PE has readily available parts and accessories like a mount. They have someone to answer the phone too and they'll be a lot easier to deal with should any issues arise.

 

BMC about to go down.

 

Driver side ended up looking real clean, not sure what happened with my passenger side.

Haven’t welded on the plates yet… cause well, I don’t know how to weld.

 

ET top, Regular bottom. Looks like we’re good!!! We’re getting mounted today!!!

 

Mounted 1 and they’re using something called Equal instead of weights.

I knew this issue was going to arise with the TPMS. They said that Autel TPMS was going to work with my ‘21, but I knew it wasn’t going to.

They said TPMS swap was way too much work, but ended up having to take off my OEM for them to swap over.

So now waiting for them to break the beads off the OEM wheels and swapping OEM TPMS to the dirty-sevens.

 

Definitely had to do PWM. So now, we’re rubbing full lock driver and passenger side. Fronts are extremely tight with the plastic trim for the front bumper caps.

Scheduled an alignment to increase caster. What’s your guys’ take to do?

@831Tun @eccracer104

 

Lift it enough to gain clearance.

 

Get your cutting tools ready! Lol.

You’ll want to be around 5 degrees positive caster. That will help to get the tire off the body mount. But then you’ll be into the front bumper more - and need to cut.

If you need pics of where I cut just let me know in our PM. I think I have most if not all on my build thread.

Lol. That will help for street driving, but as soon as the suspension compresses he’s in the same boat because the tire has to go somewhere.

 

Obviously! I was thinking a rather substantial quantity, not just a level/coilover job.

 

Mike pretty well covered it, increase caster via LCAs and begin your search for a front bumper. Toyo's tend to run a little larger than other brands too.

 

Got an alignment scheduled this upcoming Monday. I removed the front fog light covers, so the tires clear the front now. But once I get caster in the 5 range, then I’m for sure going to have to cut the bumper caps.

I’ll search your thread Mike. I know @KevinK slit his bumper caps too to keep that OEM look.

 

did you use bumper shims? or did you already post that and I missrd it

 

Yep, you missed it.

 

You could always Viper cut the front bumper caps

Here’s the cleanest example I have seen done



I believe he just joined the forum not too long ago as well