Big job done, now no spark. Please help a simple man

I keep finding myself skipping tests like this, I'll go real wild and pick up starter fluid tomorrow.

 

This is more effective when the vehicle is running though isn't it?

 

It would have to be a big ass vacuum leak to keep it from running.

 

Correct. This will do nothing if it's not running.

 

Alright, ive got fuel but no pressure, truck starts on brake clean! Circuit open and efi relays tested as healthy. i think the next step is to gain access to the pump and see if it will run with 12v directly to it.

 

If I were going through the trouble Of pulling the tank, I would replace my fuel pump and screen. Certainly in the face of fueling issues.

 

I second this. Get a good quality brand pump and just do it if it's already dropped down anyway.

 

I third this. IF you've got the tank down, just do it. Fuel pumps are just one of those things that can cause all kinds of erratic probs, and nobody ever wants to change because it's a pain in the ass in many vehicles, requiring dropping the tank. If you have access and you've got over 75-100k miles and/or 10-15 years on your pump, it's such cheap insurance to swap out.

 

Gentlemen, I'm a certified dipstick remember? Were not dropping no tank, we making custom service doors with cutoff wheels.
In fact i already cut the hole and found when the pump is directly supplied voltage it will spin. Trucks still no go unfortunately.

 

If I’m understanding, you have access to fuel pump harness ?
If so, the EG side of fuel pump harness should have a constant ground at appropriate pin. I’m not where I can check color of that conductor but it possibly should contain black as a color. In other words, if you check either conductor to gnd, do you have a short meaning your gnd is good to pump. With access and a helper, can you attempt to crank and see if you have 12 vdc EG side of fuel pump harness ?

edit….just checked the 2001 EWD and gnd for fuel pump color is WH with black tracer

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

We want pics please!

 

Need to check voltage at fuel pump connector. Don't just use a dvom either need to take a light bulb and see if it will light the bulb. Remember just because you have 12v at the connector it doesn't mean you have the amps. Also just because the pump comes on doesn't mean it good. Need a fuel pressure gauge to check that. I would need to look up what the spec is.

 

E=IxR and Pi R round !

 

Fuel pressure spec is 38-44psi. If you got good power and ground at your connector. I would probably just put a pump in it. Make sure you get a denso and not some cheap autozone crap. Can be had from rockauto for $90.

 

Here is the wiring diagram for the fuel pump.

 

I'm curious about this as well. I was under the assumption that the pump was actually under the cab, not the bed.

 

I thought the filter was under the cab, on the framerail, but the pump was in the top of the tank, under the bed?

 

Fuel filter was under the frame rail for just a few years when they made the Tundra, then it moved to the tank. Not sure of the exact switchover date.

 

There is a fuel pump filter inside tank and what I'll call an inline fuel filter located under driver door on frame. The fuel pump filter 23217-0F010 in tank, fits 1Gen Tundras with 00-04/3.4 L V-6 and 04-05/4.7L V8.
The inline filter on frame rail, 23030-62010, located under driver door, fits 1st Gen 00-04/3.4L V6 and 04-05/4.7L V8. So in essence we have 2 fuel filters IMHO.

2000-2004 Toyota Tundra Fuel Filter 23030-62010 | Toyota of Cool Springs vParts

1997-2008 Toyota Filter, Fuel Pump 23217-0F010 | Toyota of Cool Springs vParts

inline fuel filter on frame rail 04 DC….

 

Fuck that filter.

 

So I put the new pump in (which for those interested the trucks a single cab so it’s all under the bed), truck fired up, ran and died. Which is much better than I was getting. Also previous owner removed the fuel filter and it looks like they replaced it with a rubber hose so that should be flowing very nicely lol.

 

So it will run now, like straight dog shit. This puppy’s sitting at the intersection of misfire street and stall avenue and it just can barely choose, I had a p1300 igniter no.1 code with a foul’d plug on the end of a aftermarket coil, I think that will be my next step. Luckily throughout this project I pulled the trigger on diag tools I’ve been thinking about picking up for some time so testing resistance should be easier than ever for checking the coil.

 

Okay! First of all, A big thanks to all of you is in order so thank you all!
Second with the new pump as I mentioned previously, truck ran but not so hot. I knew cheap coil packs were a gamble but hey, gotta win sometimes right? Anyways bought the Denso coil and we've got a happy idle
now to wrap up by replacing the ATF line fittings for the rad, finding all the parts that have creeped into the no mans land in the back of the seat and replacing the exhaust gasket that got KO'd by all the backfiring.
But I am happy to say I should be out holding up traffic along the on ramps across Ontario in only a few days!

 

Translation needed. Is it fixed?

 

Checked fuses and relays? Fusebox get wet for any reason? Are you able to see live data on your scan tool? Do you have access to and can isolate your ignition/fuel wiring diagrams? Are your plugs wet with fuel after cranking?

 

My interpretation was, cheap non-OEM coil pack(s) were the root cause. Once swapped with Denso/OEM, all good. But OP would need to confirm that's the case

 

This is a part of it for certain, It was a one step forward two step back situation where every time a rectified a problem I created a new one.
I changed out my cheap coils and plugs to ngk and denso equipment after getting the truck to run with two cylinders dead.
The coil was preventing the its own plug and the sister plug from firing correctly.

In the process I confused my self and hooked the coils to the incorrect sister plugs. Doh!

So, in summary, I earn my name on this forum every time I get out of bed. But, I do have a truck that runs smoother and more efficiently than it has as long as I've driven it.