2nd gen cluster

Lol

At this point I’m not even sure that getting one from a limited is going to make mine function properly. I did go back and reread the thread where I found out about the rheostat needing to be swapped to fix this issue and he actually installed a sequoia optitron cluster in his dash. So now I’m wondering if that’s why the Corolla part (which is the same as the sequoia part) worked for him.

definitely odd that it didn’t work for @FredB32 who said he used the tundra part. I honestly can’t see the part having the same part number ending in 0040 but then being different internally.

but I have been known to be wrong

 

So...the part I got is a Sequioa part lol...but "should" be the same as the Tundra part, as far as I can tell. But going back in the listing there was no VIN so I can't validate anything at all at this point. The only thing is the color (it's white) and the part numbers stamped on them, but I'm pretty sure those are in reference to the housing, and not the internals of the part itself.

It's a bit of a mystery...the part number for the Tundra (according to toyodiy.com) is the same as the entire list I sent out earlier, so there's theoretically no reason why it wouldn't work...but obviously that's wrong!!

 

so maybe mystery solved!! Maybe the sequoia part is different for some reason! Here’s wishful thinking the part from an sr5 will work lol

but still on the hunt from a limited/platinum. I just wish I knew someone around here with one.

maybe I should go “test drive” one around here lol

 

If the seller's description is accurate...then no, it's on the list (unless that's wrong) from toyodiy for the 2007-17 Sequoia Platinum, which matches the Tundra part number:

 

Well if we’re saying that the part number is the same but internally something is different is what I meant. Part number wise all kind of stuff should work

but then again a rav4 limited one worked just fine so I honestly don’t get it at this point

 

Maybe something just in the wiring of a particular year/s? I have a very late model 2nd gen so maybe my harness is compatible…shot in the dark I suppose

 

So this is the info I had found regarding the rheostat. This is the part number of the one I bought that did not work for me

it does detail how to wire it up so that it’ll dim, but I am not quite sure of the exact connectors he is speaking of. But for those of us that the rheostat swap out hasn’t worked, here’s the wiring info. If you figure it out let the rest of us
know

 

Well...FML...I just ordered another rheostat from eBay...the seller came back with an offer of $10 ($20 total) after originally declining my $10 offer...so whatever, I'm giving it a try. It's one I found with a confirmed VIN number on the vehicle (Corolla) that appears to be the correct(ish) one? But I thought that with the first one too.

2T1BURHE5FC461551



@Musicmasterd12 where did you pull the snippet above from? I'm trying to follow it but it's confusing without knowing all the details on which vehicle, etc.

 

Found it

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...h-automatic-dimming-function-at-night.751498/

 

I didn’t know if I could post a link to another forum on here

My second rheostat came in today but it’s not the 0040 numbers from a tundra as advertised on eBay it’s 453471. So obviously the vin the guy sent me is not accurate for this part number

I think someone mentioned previously that’s it’s from the RAV4 and should work as well

will try it out when I get my truck back from the shop later today (finally getting the 5100s installed )

 

So...I don't think there's any issue linking outside the forum. In reading the write-up that person did, it's thorough but super clunky. I think the below is the only part pertaining to the rheostat itself. *IF* they're correct in what they wrote and some of their assumptions, it should be the 0C041 that has the built-in dimming function. What's odd is if you look up the 040 and 041, they BOTH have overlapping use in the 2007-17 Sequoia (same model vehicles), and only the 040 is listed under the Tundra (not the Sequioa).

This is where the automatic dimming hasn’t functioned for others. You have an option on the switch however, you can keep your current one and jumper it or buy the one that has a switch inside it for cancelling the auto dimming function (tail cancel switch, which allows the rheostat to rotate further and sort of latch like old vehicles where that would turn on your dome light).

Part number for the optional rheostat with Tail cancel function: 84119-0C041

Now with all that above said, it sounds like the 0C041 part has the full-up click with the full brightness...which sounds like what we ALL have so far, and despite that, the dimming hasn't worked lol...so who knows.

 

I tested from a RAV4 limited and confirmed it works.

 

yea it’s weird I used the same part he did and mine didn’t work but then again he used a sequoia optitron cluster

also when you look up part number 0040 it now shows 0041 and says that part replaces 0040. So I feel like if it was going to work it should have worked

if this part doesn’t work then I just think I’m SOL and will have to try the jumper route if I want it to work, but he wasn’t very detailed in his description. He also hasn’t been active on that forum since 2019, so won’t be able to ask for clarification.

when googling I have noticed others mentioned there dimming function. It working but then no solutions were brought up not fixed mentioned (and most of these posts were years old, and not sure which version of the rheostat they had in their trucks)

 

We’ll just went and got my truck. Plugged the new rheostat in and nothing. I just wish I knew what was different between these trucks as to why this works for some and not for others

 

Well after reading the “jumping” directions again it seems the wire I’m missing at the dimmer is the soft blue wire.

So maybe in my case that’s why these rheostats are not working for me. Although in that other forum’s thread he mentions getting it to work even in a truck grade tundra, which is what I thought I had.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram or have any idea of where that soft blue wire goes to? Maybe I can run a wire and fix my issue

If not, I guess I’m SOL after all

still may be hope for you @FredB32

 

I can not find this LJ connector he talks about to to save my life!! This is what I’ve found so far

 

How did you mount the actual pins on the board? Are they just sitting in there after you add all the wires and mods?

 

This write up for the "jumper" is just taking the 5V coming out of the cluster on Pin#1 and sending it back into Pin#38.

It "jumps" the Tail cancel switch inside the dimmer. Essentially making the switch permanently closed.



As far as the LJ1 connecter it is in there. It is a middle link/plug between to harnesses and might be taped up in the loom "hidden"

 

so do you think me not having the tail cancel wire could be my issue? I was trying to run a wire from LJ1 to the rheostat to see if adding the wire allowed the dimming function to work

 

Do you have your cluster out? I would assume if you don’t have a wire from LJ1 to the dimmer, you won’t have one from LJ1 to the back of the cluster either.

Post a picture of the wiring connector going into the back of your cluster. Is there a wire on pin 38

 

Those jumper pins are soldered to the board. It can be a pain in the butt! Lol

 

I don’t have it out anymore. But no I do not have a wire in pin 38

I can’t find the LJ1 connector anyway. There’s one connector that’s out of arms reach and I’m not sure how to get to it, even when I had the cluster out I didn’t see how to get to it. So at this point I’m gonna have to admit defeat

 

This seems like the location of the connectors I can’t get to though. I do not see any kind of connector around the location this diagrams shows LJ1 supposedly being

 

It’s almost like I don’t have this harness. Like I think it’s supposed to plug in here:

 

Just skip LJ1 all together. It’s probably electrical taped up inside the loom.

The blue wire goes from Pin 5 on the dimmer go Pin 22 LJ1, then it goes from 22 on LJ1 to Pin 38 on the cluster. I would just add a wire from Pin 38 on the cluster directly to Pin 5 of the dimmer. LJ1 is just a middleman and yours is empty anyway.

Also post the link to the other forum where the guy is talking about the jumper. If I can read it maybe I can understand more of why he wants to jump the tailight cancel switch to permanently on

 

Looks like some folks only have 3 wires and some have 4 on their dimmer rheostat.

 

Well I went and ran a wire from pin 38 on cluster to pin 7 on the rheostat, no dice. Idk if the LJ1 connector has any bearing on this or not


I guess I’ve done all I can do but unfortunately the dimming feature isn’t going to work on my truck. I’ll just have to live with and enjoy them how they are

 

Pin 7 or 5?

Pin 1 from cluster goes to dimmer pin 7 for 5v power

Pin 38 from cluster goes to pin 5 of the dimmer

 

I meant pin 5

 

So now I'm even more confused. First, I definitely need a soldering station. Trying to do it freehand is... Yeah next to impossible.

Secondly, you soldered the jumper wires to the adapter that came with the pins in it? The video shows the blank board, but then with the pins in it and zero explanation of how to do it. I basically soldered some of the holes closed in an attempt to do it,