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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Apr 10, 2022 at 12:18 PM
    #2611
    AstroDude

    AstroDude New Member

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    Eddie
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    2011 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4
    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    It never seems to end. The problems.

    Issue: low voltage

    Things I've done
    1. Alternator is 1 year old
    2. New battery (replaced today)
    3. Cleaned the terminals
    4. Checked some fuses just not sure if they were the right ones. Also I don't know why my airbag light is on. I've reached the end of my researching capabilities.
    5. I disconnected the battery to test and alternator, the truck continues to run.

    What else am I missing to fix this problem?

    20220410_120928.jpg
    20220410_121430.jpg
    20220410_121554.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2022
  2. Apr 10, 2022 at 2:01 PM
    #2612
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    Bryan
    South Carolina
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    Check your grounds both battery and engine
     
    Ruggybuggy likes this.
  3. Apr 10, 2022 at 4:07 PM
    #2613
    AstroDude

    AstroDude New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4
    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    I cleaned both grounds and the issue remains the same.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2022 at 8:26 PM
    #2614
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy Seasoned Veteran

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    Dave
    NW ON, CANADA
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    2016 Tundra OR
    Google or YouTube how to do a voltage drop test. It will help you see any connection issues.
     
    AZEric and AstroDude[QUOTED] like this.
  5. Apr 12, 2022 at 3:12 PM
    #2615
    AlumBody

    AlumBody New Member

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    To those that may be interested or struggling with a similar issue we have solved our starting problem! Albeit, with a less than ideal answer, our opinion is as follows:

    It appears that our ECU was looking for this TBC upon startup and when nothing was plugged into the truck's connector it would not start. Plug in the harness even without the TBC plugged into the other side and the truck fires right up. Assuming then there must be a "jumper" inside the TBC harness we checked continuity through it from both ends in every combination at least 2-3 times. All checks out, every combination only sounded off when in fact we were touching the other side of that specific wire, no jumper in the harness. Next was to start the truck with the TBC harness connected and then unplug it once running and see if it continues to run. Yep, truck continues to run once started with the plug in and then removed. Definitely only a starting protocol issue. Our only thought at this point is the computer is looking for resistance in those lines and having the harness plugged in even without the TBC connected provided that resistance for the ECU??? So how do we change resistance? Change the length of the wires. We cut the harness off about 1" from the connector removing about 2 feet of wire from the system. Plugged it in, truck fires right up. Next was to test the pins in the trucks connector and see what they did and if any of them changed during "start". One has constant power (B+) and the rest get nothing. None of the pins changed behavior when cycling the ignition. Tested continuity through the trucks connector and got some weird combinations and only in one direction. Then realized it is probably not strange to get continuity through them and it really wasn't telling us anything. Why we got continuity through one way and not the other we surmise is due to our meter sending test signal out one probe and there must be a diode(s) in that circuit somewhere. Following the 'Trailer Towing' circuitry diagram we were able to eliminate all but two of the five wires on the truck's plug. Figuring that the B+ wire is what powers this particular circuit and according to the diagram it runs straight from the fuse box to the truck's connector unlike the other wires which run through relays or other modules, we pulled the 30A fuse for "TOW BRK". Turn the key and BAM! Truck fires right up without the TBC harness plugged in. Ok, maybe this fuse is not present without a factory TBC and when an aftermarket one is installed a fuse must be put in this terminal to activate the circuit. Consult the TBC installation instructions and no mention of a fuse anywhere nor did tech support offer up this explanation. Sanity check, put the 30A fuse back in, TBC harness still unplugged, turn the key and BAM! Truck fires right up. Control test, let it sit over night, turn the key the next morning and BAM! Truck fires right up.

    Although not the concrete solution we'd hope to find (like an unplugged wire or open fuse) we assume that by taking the fuse out of that circuit and starting the truck we may have "reset" the memory on having a TBC. When reading the installation instructions for the TBC vehicle specific harness, it primarily states: "Plug brake control adapter into mating receptacle on backside of brake control BEFORE attaching to the vehicle connector". Our interpretation of that statement leads us to believe that upon initial installation and subsequent first start, the ECU will "write" that it has the TBC and from then on be looking for it. Even though we had the battery disconnected many, many times during this whole process, it wasn't until we pulled the fuse from the circuit and cycled the ignition did it work correctly.

    Much luck to those who may be dealing with similar issues! Thank you to those that gave their input and suggestions.

    AlumBody Team
     
    Randy Morton likes this.
  6. Apr 14, 2022 at 6:32 AM
    #2616
    MarcoD

    MarcoD New Member

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    Dallas, TX
    Vehicle:
    2010 Silver Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4 CM
    What is the best way to fix squeaks when going over things like speed bumps or railroad crossings? I believe all my suspension components are original and never been changed. Should I replace things like shocks, bushings, control arms, and does the 2nd gens have ball joints? I see all the other stuff online from an OEM parts dealer just not sure about the whole ball joint thing unless is part of the control arms. 2010 SR5 4x4 CM with TRD off road.
     
  7. Apr 14, 2022 at 5:48 PM
    #2617
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    You could spritz a couple suspect items at a time with a silicone spray to try to determine exactly what's squeaking. That may be a bit more cost effective versus throwing parts at it. Spritz, test drive, repeat.
     
    MarcoD[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Apr 15, 2022 at 4:29 PM
    #2618
    AstroDude

    AstroDude New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4
    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    So I checked the voltage from the alternator to a ground and I got 11.48V

    So it's the alternator

    20220415_162729.jpg
     
  9. Apr 16, 2022 at 4:31 PM
    #2619
    AstroDude

    AstroDude New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4
    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    Replaced the alternator and did a drop dead test. I get 11V anywhere I test to include the new $500 that I just installed today. I'm going to have a mechanic figure this out.
     
  10. Apr 17, 2022 at 4:12 PM
    #2620
    Seethan

    Seethan Overwhelmed noob

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    Seth
    Middle TN
    Vehicle:
    2000 V6 Tundra SR5 AC 2WD
    My rear differential on my 2wd is close to death and I was wondering what parts I need. Also, I was wondering how to find out exactly which differential I have as there seem to be quite a few different sizes (as in 8.4" or 7"). My exact problem is when I try to accelerate from stopping, I'll hear the engine rev but I don't move for a second, then it'll suddenly jolt or catch itself and go. I think the problem is from towing too much weight with it for too long.
     
  11. Apr 17, 2022 at 6:44 PM
    #2621
    Eaganite

    Eaganite New Member

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    Gary
    Eagan, Minnesota
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    Sounds more like transmission trouble to me.
     
  12. Apr 18, 2022 at 10:06 AM
    #2622
    MarcoD

    MarcoD New Member

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    I need to stop the habit of throwing parts at my truck, but I sprayed the suspension components and it seemed to stop the squeaking although I don’t know if that’s a long term solution. It’s hard to pinpoint where exactly the squeak is coming from.
     
  13. Apr 18, 2022 at 10:46 AM
    #2623
    Seethan

    Seethan Overwhelmed noob

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    Seth
    Middle TN
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    A mechanic told me that it was the rear differential, but I wouldn’t know the difference.
     
  14. Apr 18, 2022 at 10:48 AM
    #2624
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Dan
    Indiana, Chicagoland
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    05 rollover special
    custom body work, Billies with taco ARB springs, Icon AAL, TRD FJ trail team wheels, 2019 Toyota 86 radio, Blacked out interior, Added factory power everything, heater mirrors, ETC
    Any weird noises when it does it? A diff CAN cause what your feeling. But so can a transmission
     
  15. Apr 18, 2022 at 11:07 AM
    #2625
    squid

    squid New Member

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    Pacific Northwest
    Vehicle:
    2014 crewmax
    Trd sway bar, trd shit knob, Bakflip MX4
    I have had my breaks done front and back (rotors and pads). The rear drivers side rubs on the pads only when coming to full stop and only at low speeds. The shop replaced the pads with OEM pads and it is much better but still rubs time to time. My previous breaks were great (same system) never had any issues. Any idea what is causing this? Thanks
     
  16. Apr 18, 2022 at 11:33 AM
    #2626
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

    Joined:
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    Souped up truck
    Magnuson Magnum TVS 2650 S/C Sniv's Speed Shop 70mm pulley RCF Throttle Body TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD Front Sway Bar TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint 15/70% Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Valhalla Catalytic Converter Shields Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats Solid Offroad Engine Mounts
    No it's not, so you'll get another shot at trying to figure it out. After a few drives in the rain the silicone will likely wash out and it will begin to squeak again. Don't spay a bunch of things at once otherwise you won't be able to determine which item is making the sound. Spray, test drive, spray, test drive.
     
    nobodyintexas and Bprose like this.
  17. Apr 18, 2022 at 1:54 PM
    #2627
    Seethan

    Seethan Overwhelmed noob

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    It does make a noise, almost like a grinding bang when it catches. It’s not very loud though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2022
  18. Apr 18, 2022 at 2:12 PM
    #2628
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    custom body work, Billies with taco ARB springs, Icon AAL, TRD FJ trail team wheels, 2019 Toyota 86 radio, Blacked out interior, Added factory power everything, heater mirrors, ETC
    Sounds like some of the ring gear is gone. It happens. Honestly the cheapest route is a used diff and just toss it in
     
  19. Apr 18, 2022 at 2:16 PM
    #2629
    NickG

    NickG New Member

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    I literally went to the dealer 2 weeks ago for the SAI. Why am I getting a P2432 code for airflow
    /pressure circuit low after getting my air injection system replaced? Does this mean my sensor is bad? It came on when I first started the truck this morning. I always seemed to have bad luck and after pouring out a lot of money…why??? Maybe I should of just did the bypass. I’m starting to think that maybe the pressure sensor is damaged from running the truck while the valve was stuck open for a little while (I kept clearing the check engine light to get it out of limp until I got it fixed) , but how did the service technician miss this?
     
  20. Apr 19, 2022 at 5:00 AM
    #2630
    Thomas4x4

    Thomas4x4 New Member

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    You could of just bypassed it. That’s weird that you have that code after everything has been replaced. Maybe you should check the wiring/fuse and see if the sensor is messed up.
     
  21. Apr 20, 2022 at 11:11 AM
    #2631
    myt1

    myt1 New Member

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    Richard
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    2010 Tundra DC TRD SR5 Desert Sand Mica
    OME Lift, 275/70R 18
    I hope this is a simple question so you can get back to the above issues.

    I plan on replacing my cv axle and I'm having fit determining the size nut that holds the axle to the wheel mount.

    The YouTube videos say it is a 35mm, but the 35 mm socket I bought is definitely too small. I bought the 12 point socket.

    I would really appreciate help with this. This is the last piece of the puzzle before I can get started.
     
  22. Apr 23, 2022 at 6:18 AM
    #2632
    NickG

    NickG New Member

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    One more question pertaining to the SAI. How would you know if you have a damaged pressure sensor? I’ve been getting one of those pressure sensor circuit codes. I thought for the 5.7L the pressure sensor comes with the air switch valve set? I get it fix the stuck open code and P0419 disappears and this circuit code pops up a few days later. Like I mentioned before when I had the stuck open code I kept clearing it with my code reader and it usually came back on within a few days or a week later.
     
  23. Apr 24, 2022 at 6:01 PM
    #2633
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Kelly
    Spanish Fort, AL
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    Can I please get a recommended course of action on this? My wife's 2012 Highlander Limited (V6) had the check engine light and the traction control light next to it come on. I was driving it I noticed them (she had not driven it in several days) and stopped at an auto supply shop to get the codes read. Before I got to the auto parts shop, they went off on their own. I stopped anyway to get a history. There were several instances of P0012 - Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded (Bank 1) CONFIRMED, one C1241 - Low Or High Power Supply Voltage CURRENT, and a couple of C1408 - Open Or Short In Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit CURRENT. This SOUNDS serious, but if the Check Engine light turned off on its own, it is critical? Or can I just have it checked one day late this week?
     
  24. Apr 25, 2022 at 11:14 AM
    #2634
    Elroy_unlimited

    Elroy_unlimited New Member

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    Eric
    Murfreesboro TN
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    2017 limited crew max
    I am having a hell of a time figuring out why my power steering pump has a slight whine/groan and is even worse in cold temps. There is no issues whatsoever with the function of the steering. I have flushed the fluid with Valvoline atf 4plus, and even put the front end on jack stands and turned the steering wheel left to right (lock to lock) to flush any possible air trapped in the system with no success. Is the pump possibly bad?
     
  25. Apr 25, 2022 at 11:19 AM
    #2635
    BecauseRacecar

    BecauseRacecar New Member

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    I am not a mechanic, but a former Subaru owner. They're known for PS problems, and I noticed using Amsoil ATF helped quiet my system down a lot. A really common issue is failed gaskets or hose clamps that allow some air to be sucked in. Look for any fluid weeping at all on the soft line connections at the pump. You may have bled the system, but even the tiniest leak can introduce air again.
     
  26. Apr 25, 2022 at 11:30 AM
    #2636
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Magnuson Magnum TVS 2650 S/C Sniv's Speed Shop 70mm pulley RCF Throttle Body TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD Front Sway Bar TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint 15/70% Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Valhalla Catalytic Converter Shields Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats Solid Offroad Engine Mounts
    The C1242 code makes me wonder how your battery's health is, maybe a ground as well? Have you looked for rodent droppings, particularly under the intake cover, in the cabin filter, and the engine's air filter?
     
  27. Apr 25, 2022 at 3:13 PM
    #2637
    kylerocker10

    kylerocker10 New Member

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    I have a 2019 double cab with 30K miles with Icon coilovers and UCA's and the feeling in my front end is feeling progressively worse (felt great for a while after initial install). The steering wanders a lot more now which is especially noticeable on uneven gravel roads at low speeds, as well as having to turn the wheel more than previously to compensate for crowned roads, it also sounds like a sort of loose rattle when going over harsh rough terrain. I have been trying to sort this out for a while now and have checked torque on LCA and UCA bolts and coilovers, as well as replaced lower control arms and UCA bushings so far to no avail. I have also tried jacking up the front of the truck and wiggling the wheels and tie rods and nothing feels loose. The last things I have yet to try but am hesitant to swap preemptively are the UCA ball joint (Icon delta joint) and the steering rack bushings (I would swap in Synergy urethane bushing kit). The stock rubber steering rack bushings seem to have a bit of play but not sure if that is normal. Any recommendations or next steps would be greatly appreciated.

    Video of steering rack bushing play:

     
  28. Apr 26, 2022 at 7:57 AM
    #2638
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    I have not checked for rodent signs - we've never had an issue with them before in the 14 years we've been here. The battery is not new, but now very old either. I'll check it out. Hopefully the codes will not return.

    I just thought of something else. The timing chain has been replaced - once. Now the car has over 250k on it. Probably time to do that again.
     
  29. Apr 30, 2022 at 2:23 PM
    #2639
    Kimosabe

    Kimosabe Slacker

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    Chris
    Sun Valley, Idaho
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    03 Tundra AC TRD
    I’m wondering how necessary is it to replace a gasket every time you open up the engine?
    I have a 2003 Tundra 4.7L and I replaced my starter and while in there I managed to rip the knock sensor wire. I tried to re-pin it but then just got the DTC P0330. So it didn’t work. I’m going to get a new connector, but am wondering if I need to replace the intake manifold gaskets when I pull the plenum? I just replaced them while I was replacing the starter. I appreciate any input; even if it’s “you’re stupid for pulling in the wire.”
     
  30. Apr 30, 2022 at 4:43 PM
    #2640
    myt1

    myt1 New Member

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    Richard
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    2010 Tundra DC TRD SR5 Desert Sand Mica
    OME Lift, 275/70R 18
    I ended up figuring it out myself.

    The axle nut is 39mm, twelve point.

    I just bought all the sizes I thought would be close on Amazon, and I plan on returning the ones that are the incorrect size.
     
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