General Supercharger Thread

Stage 2 really looks slightly better than Stage 3 when you look at the gains vs Stage 1. $42.5 vs $50 per HP gained over Stage 1.

Stage 3 vs Stage 2 is 60 vs Stage 2 vs Stage 1 is 42.5

 

and it has minimal complications

blower, injectors, pulley

easy peasy

atmosphere squeasy

just did a 200 mile trip is the tundra. Got 18.6 mpg. All hwy

 

Added the other figures. Comparing stages to the previous stage.

I've been surprised here lately with my good MPGs now that the weather is warmer. I'll have to retrain my scangauge once this Stage 3 install is done.

 

Its not a perfect comparison since the parts and labor of the kits aren't itemized. I think the Stage 2 and Stage 3 offering will be a lot closer.

 

Their Stage 1 NA tune is $56/HP. Their Maggie Stage 1 is 53.33/HP around the same ballpark as the Harrop Stage 2 and Stage 3. Maggie Stage 2 is close to $70/HP.

 

Thoughts on catch cans? Yay to PCV, nay to CCV? Or nay all around.

 

Radium PCV can all the way. Check it every few thousand miles and it always has some in it. I know a few of us run it, including @AZTundra and @snivilous

I don't have the CCV so I can't speak to it.

 

I've had mine for a solid 1000 miles after installing it like 10 days ago, and I'm pretty sure it makes no measurable difference but my PCV hose was broken so why not. Plus if you've ever taken an intake apart it looks like an engine drank shit water, so hopefully it won't look any worse in the foreseeable future

According to one dude the CCV is useless so I didn't get that either.

 

+1 for the Radium, but just do the pcv can only. I did the dual, but the crankcase can has yet to collect a drop after 23k miles.

 

Anyone running LT on a stage 2? Curious what the numbers are

 

Is that from the CCV or just the PCV?

 

PCV Not a single drop in the CCV

 

I also have the PCV only Radium can. But it’s been riding in the back seat for a month waiting for a nice day to install.

 

I swear this guy is chipped into my brain:

https://youtu.be/0M7vHlZCbE8?t=496

He summarizes later with nuance (at 21:00):
N/A bigger intake first.
S/C (positive displacement) bigger throttle.
Turbo does not matter until high power levels.

 

could not agree more.

He speaks in plain terms.

tells you like it is, because he is the one that does it.

confirmation bias is not present. he just tells you how shit works.

he is one of the few engine guys I can watch from beginning to end. each sentence has meat in it.

 

sidebar:

Didn't take the Plaid because there ain't no chargers from north Houston to Belton. and did not feel like traveling all over God's green earth to find one. (Waco)

So we did College orientation for my daughter. We let her drive the 200-some-odd miles to get her acclimated to the drive.

her comment...Dad, your cruise control acts more erratic than before. This is the 1st time she has used the cruise control.

It was nice to hear a validation of the boost bypass valve getting ornery every time we went up a hill. The truck goes back to the ECU to adjust the cruise control, but there is a Blower there now. The computer still gives the truck the beans when a hill is presented, but the truck accelerates much faster then the computer has programmed, so it backs off faster. it's not bad when you are used to it. but a newby sure notices.

same happens when you are laser cruising behind a car and it slows down.....then, when the car ahead of you moves, hang on, Mr. Blower is coming to town.


The tundra does not like an 18mph headwind. tailwind got us 18.6mpg! LOL

 

My thoughts as it relates to the different levels of Boost and the efficiency of each level:

It appears quite easy to add power via bolt on equipment
· Tuning
· Blower
· Injectors
· Smaller pulley
· Bigger inlet
· Bigger throttle body
· larger fuel system
· headers
(each bullet point is a step down the Diderot rabbit hole)

in short…it’s VERY easy to get to 600hp.

the issue for me is the INSIDE of this motor.

It was designed for 381/401. (I’m not whining, as I am guilty of most of the above list)

I reckon you could reliably go to 600hp @ crank, if you did not load the engine for too long.
I doubt our ring gap could handle too much heat.

And, if we were able to see what made forced induction 3UR engines fail, a large % of failures would relate to ring gap. Followed closely by lean fueling issues – or is this ring gap as well?

I’d like to see a package that keeps the compression ratio stock yet changes pistons & bearings.

Keeping the compression ratio stock will allow “easier” tuning and more predictable performance…and provide another layer of reliability to say….750 hp.



Someone poke a hole in my logic.

 

Anyone familiar with these folks?

https://xatracing.com/3ur-fe-3ur-fbe-2007-5-7-v8/

 

That oil pump looks interesting.

First place I've seen the Whipple cheaper than the Harrop.

 

Yes, I've ordered from them before, good to deal with and very knowledgeable on our platform

 

That's great to hear. I'm thinking about contacting them for an engine build. I did a little research and saw the owner/founder recently passed away. Really unfortunate, but glad to know someone has some prior experience with them.

 

Group buy on engine build?

I would love to build a short block but my mechanical ability is not up to par nor is my bank account.

 

Ahhh, fuck me.

They're around the corner.

Literally 0.7mi from my office.


Now that I think about it, I think I reached out to them a while back about the supercharger install and they didn't want to do it or something if I remember correctly.

 

I recall seeing xat did a 5.7 swap into a sc430, their option is cool, wonder if there's anyone has their built engine in a truck.

Wife was able to record the exhaust sound, this is with stainless works long tube, factory cats on custom mid pipes, x pipe, then factory TRD exhaust.

https://youtu.be/_IveEoDO9hw

 

Love the sound. The Stainless Works site has a couple of videos showing different combinations of their LTHs with and without their Redline and Legacy catback systems.

Their LTH come with cats correct? Was there a reason you swapped the OEM ones in? I hear it is tough to beat the OEM cats as some consider them high flow.

 

I chose the catted version, which the cats turned out to be not very useful for our application, the secondary O2 sensors would constantly trigger CEL and the truck just stank, not to mention it was so loud that it was unbearable during normal driving, it's an issue that its hard to describe over forum or even youtube video, when these trucks run long tube headers and aftermarket cats, they are LOUD, it's close to NASCAR/Funny car loud, right now its quieter than stock when cruising, but according to others, it still gets pretty loud under wot when you are outside.

This is when I just install them with the cats that came with the headers, directly connected to OEM TRD exhaust (no x-pipe), this would set off car alarms when I remote start.

https://youtu.be/IQ8odt8on7M

 

That is my hesitation with LT, can't run defoulers here and don't want to deal with CEL issues. The growl sounds awesome but it is probably over the top in person.

 

I have had the JBA LT for 3 years along with the Dirty Deeds "race" exhaust and never had a problem with the CEL until recently. I had Keith use the factory cats on the exhaust when he built it. Obviously one of the cats started to fail because I would get a CEL sometimes. Once I put the SC on I just had the secondary O2s turned off. No more light...

 

What, if any, is the impact of turning of the secondary O2 sensors?