General Supercharger Thread

Do it.

 

I have all the mentioned parts on my 07 Tundra Crewmax except the throttle body and Prospeed fuel system. I have went through the same wot 1-2 gear change misfire. I checked everything and all was good. What I figured out is that by me leveling my truck had the traction control out of whack even after multiple ZPC’s. I finally fixed it I hope by the washer mod underneath the rear of the yaw sensor. When you are in wot it totes the front end causing it to pull timing and fuel. My traction control light would come on during high rpms but wasn’t spinning the tires. Check your PCV hose under the front end of the Harrop supercharger. Here recently I also had a small leak on mine causing a misfire at idle that caused some loss in power and excessive fuel consumption. May have been some of my problem all along but I didn’t lose power til here recently??? I’m no expert, just wanted to throw some information that may or may not help you. I just swapped over to HP and in the process of retuning my truck. I will let you know how my 1-2-3 logs go later. I hope you get it fixed! If you figure it out let me know what fixed yours please. I may have not solved my problem yet. I have done some logs with no pending misfire( mine would just flash the engine light and go into limp mode) but haven’t really done a full 1-2-3 shift log yet. Good luck!!!

 

I'm actually only throwing the misfire at WOT at around 4th-5th gear. Down low she's running perfect. ProSpeed did mention to me they've seen traction control cause the issue, even though we're at high speeds, and had me fully disable it prior to the WOT runs. Still happened

 

Mine done it with traction control off also. Hopefully you will get it figured out soon! I’ve diagnosed everything on mine! I also heard it could be cats. Only things I found was the small leak and my traction control problem.

 

Matt Smith, a pretty known SC installer from the FB groups, reached out to me directly and told me it was almost definitely the primary cat on the driver side and that he's seen it many times. I just dropped the truck off with the shop and asked them to check that as well. Will keep y'all updated.

 

Cool, an expensive Porsche is faster than an old Tesla.

Back to superchargers....

 

I had a misfire on the tundra from a bad spark plug that was only a few months old, it must've been cracked or something but was visually fine. Only happened higher in the revs and only found it swapping parts with other cylinders.

 

Also I got the radium catch can, I've been having some lean out codes only when I come to a stop and I know the pcv hose looked leaky so figured get the catch can instead of buy a new hose and lo and behold the hose had a huge slit in the bottom, so I think this fixed my lean out.

 

I done the same thing. Bought a Radium catch can. It gives you more flexibility to run the hoses different. Too many hook ups in one place behind the coolant crossbar! I also done the throttle body mod at the same time. Don’t know if it’s worth it or not but hoping for lower temps going into the supercharger.

 

They probably need to remap it since the sensor is just checking flow and is calibrated to the smaller diameter.

 

Mine is rescaled for the Prospeed intake. We had to start over though since HP is a little different than VFtuner so I’ve been told. I trust the guy helping me! Real good guy! I’m just on revision two with a few small tweaks. I can’t wait until we get it dialed in! Wish I was doing it on a dyno but tuners around me act like they are scared of Tundras???

 

For $20.5K NatSpeed offers a Stage 4 up to 655 HP but the website is wonky on non mobile devices. Surprised to see no internal engine mods on the list but I trust they know what they are doing. I'm guessing 700 to 750HP is probably grenade town.



Stage 3 offers Stainless Works LTHs as an option.

 

I emailed them to see if they had dyno results for each stage. Still waiting for them to email back.

 

Knock off about 100HP from each and it will get you a decent ballpark for "drive train loss" (-20%)

 

Ya I was just concerned about the delta. If they in fact dyno’d those setups or if they just guesstimated the delta.

 

Agreed. I get spooked when you start moving past 600

 

Its will vary vehicle to vehicle but I agree with your sentiment of wanting to see what you get for your money. Dyno #s should be posted IMO but I don't run a speed shop.

 

I only saw one 2020 that they posted on their site and I believe it was just an 80mm pulley with 650 injectors. But I’ll share whatever they send me if they have them.

 

Sweet. Hopefully I survive Stage 3 to post some numbers.

 

Forgot to mention 10% off Tundra S/Cs received via email:
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For the Tundra specifically:

 

I keep re reading that list of ingredients

it’s perfection

Do they use methanol injection?

 

Not sure but I didn't speak to them about the Stage 4 in detail

If it is the Prospeed Autosports ethanol compatible fuel system you are specifically commenting about, I think that is needed to run E85 (lowers chance of predetonation) but I could be wrong.

https://www.prospeedautosports.com/products/prospeed-tundra-fuel-system-package

 

Not that I can go get one or two but it is fun window shopping?? Who is having the sale??

 

National Speed. Sorry posted their packages a few posts back:
https://nationalspeedinc.com/packages/toyota/toyota-truck/2007-2021-tundra/tundra-xk50-platform/

 

yep..the ethanol thing threw me...You would need something, as you say, to calm the knock. I imagine that fuel rail flows much more than our standard rails.


y'all humor me for a second....Let's use my truck.
variable 1 = 9psi-ish 80mm griptec
Variable 2 = 650injectors
Variable 3 = a tune
>> will render you ~477/518

The stepped up stage 3 is adding a 4th & 5th variable

Variable 4 = 4.5" air inlet (more air)
Variable 5 = Lexus Throttle Body (more air)

This get you another 30ish hp over stage 2 so....507/550


This kinda jives when you look at my dyno graphs, and how i added 20-ish hp every upward step I took.
and also how I was told my MAF is maxed.
adding those last 2 variables could certainly get you those extra horses via more air.


now you are running ~605-610 at the crank. awesome numbers.

Does our 5.7 have enough ring gap to sustain >600hp? @ViktorG

Or is the tuner building in enough fuel to cool the piston head?


@Saltyhero13 lead the way. I'm right behind you.

 

On ProSpeeds blog they actually state that the Lexus TB does not increase HP or TQ and show you the dyno results so it is mainly the airbox however as mentioned by ViktorG a lot of the air is sucked in inside the engine compartment so it's just as good to use the Magnuson lid with the 4" tube and tune accordingly. A lot of variables with these kits and temps are one of them. I've been at National Speed where a morning Dyno run at 38 degrees nets 20 more HP than an afternoon run at 54 degrees. While everyone is always chasing HP I have come to learn now on my 6th Supercharged Toyota using Magnusons and Harrops there are just way too many variables, vehicle to vehicle, dyno to dyno, weather conditions day to day, to play keeping up with the Jones's game so I don't get hung up on it and just focus on a good tune that get's me the desired feel that I want. If you are in the high 400's RWHP 550 at the crank your doing great with enough cushion to maintain reliability in the engine, pushing 600HP at the crank is not a good idea and it is why Toyota stopped the SC program.

 

I'm tracking now and that is a great question. I missed your concern with cooling.

 

I think without headers all of this extra air via a bigger intake an TB probably won’t do much. I’d venture to guess you can get more power with just a 4” magnuson intake with a rescaled MAF and long tubes. Then the emissions tests (for some states) and stinky exhaust are a factor.

I think I’m happy where I’m at power wise with the standard “stage 2” package. Im probably already pushing the safe power limits when I’m really working the truck pulling my 32’ camper. I still have to spend thousands on other stuff just to improve functionality and reliability with the power I’m already making like a LSD, traction bars, valve body, maybe a regear etc. If not careful I could have 70k wrapped up in a tundra. Im upping my retirement investments which should help me curb my truck spending! Sad I know lol

 

Great insights as to why shops don't like to post numbers.

So is sounds like you are in the Stage 2 is the safe limit camp.

 

Yes and no but I have learned a few things along the way and from this thread and you as well so Thank You. One of the biggest things is the limit of the engine which is about where we are pushing them now which is why ProSpeed is now offering short blocks for our trucks. We just put a Harrop Stage 2 on my Long Travel Tundra which has Long Tube headers and a 3' full race system from Keith at DD's. I was always going to keep it NA which is why I put LT headers on it in the first place. Exhaust systems like mine don't play well with Superchargers if your going boosted keep the the stock exhaust that will net you the most boost. Once you mess with the exhaust you have to do other mods to get back the boost you lose. I decide at the last minute to experiment with my Long Travel Tundra and it's been fun and it's a complete beast. Vlad at National Speed is a great tuner and because I offroad I opt for a tune that get's me as much torque early in the power band as I can get. I am at a good place with this vehicle now and when I get the Maggie Airbox Lid ViktorG is going to take over the tune, fine tune it and my tranny. My Sequoia is running a Magnuson with a Prospeed fuel upgrade and URD pully, My 2017 Tundra ran a Magnuson and my 2008 Regular Cab Tundra ran a Stage 2 Harrop , My Gen 5 4Runner runs a Magnuson, if URD doesn't get his Gen 3 Tacoma system operational soon as in this summer were going to just put a Maggie on my SO's Tacoma.