D tires but tundras are Es?

I didn't actually pay attention to the weight rating on my Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws. The deal was so good I didn't care. I opted to try them because they are well rated for snow and because I wasn't real happy with the KO2s I had on my previous truck. Terrible in wet conditions. The Falkens have been great in the snow, and pretty good on ice as well. For an AT tire I don't think I've had a better one, but a dedicated winter tire would certainly do better.

 

Your statement is equally subjective.

I have driven back to back C and E, SL and E on various vehicles I have removed E rated tires that an idiot PO installed. The ride quality is night and day better with lighter rated tires. The ply rating, sidewall stiffness, and rolling resistance science back this fact up. Equal sized tires, in the same brand… E is always more rough riding than C

 

"More rough riding" doesn't mean it rides "like shit"? Perhaps for some brands I guess.

 

It 100% means that, and I'm not sure what your point is.

E rated tires ride like shit, more roughly, more like a skateboard, than C rated tires. Maybe some people like feeling every little bump?

 

I think the point that is being made is that "rides like shit" is an extreme descriptor for riding a bit rougher. Blown shocks/springs, tires out of balance, etc. is what I would describe as "riding like shit" so just having a less cushy ride wouldn't meet that criteria for me, and I would guess many others.

 

While e rated tires ride a little worse, they corner so much better

 

People tell me how nice my truck rides so…


now if you are one of those people that roll around 60-80 psi unloaded, I can sign off on the “rides like shit.” 40 psi, not so much.

 

All I’ve used on my Toyota and my work pickup (Chevy 1500) have been E rated. For decades.

 

This is one of those questions that people will go down to actual fighting about. I sold tires for years at Costco, at one of the busiest tire centers in the United States. The Tundra comes with P-rated tires for everyday driving, which are fine for, I swear, at least 80% of the owners. An LT or C-rated (6 ply) tire will suffice for another 15% of the drivers and owners. Good truck tire, good everyday usage, and it looks like a truck tire that should be there. This quote: "Very happy my 275/60/20 SL rated Goodyear Wrangler UltraTerrain AT | Discount Tire SL rated in this size with an all-terrain look." is a perfect summation for our trucks.

Then you have the 10 ply E-rated tires, which are highly recommended for 2500 and 3500 trucks due to the tow weight capacities of these vehicles. Get the E-rated tires if you tow a lot, have a large camper, or want a rougher everyday ride. They are heavier, stronger, and more expensive. On my Dodge 2500 with Airbags, I ran the hell out of them because I towed a Bobcat and trailer and a 32-foot toy hauler. Now I haul ass and bicycles mostly, and I had Falken Wildpeak AT3, and they were terrific.

Hopefully, this helps a little.
Yes, I know some people will have different opinions, that's fine. Buy what you want, but ten ply tires on a Tundra will ride like a rough beast, especially if you drive mainly on the road.

 

FYI, My Tundra TSS (regional package) came stock with BFG K02 D-rated tires. Not an issue if you want to go that way. If I were buying tires for an area with snow, I would go for the Wildpeaks.

 

I LOVE my Rotiiva ATs. They were awesome in the snow, they are quiet on the pavement, and they do just fine in sloppy wet or peanut-butter-covered rez roads.

 

A Tundra with solid steel wheels and no tires still rides better than a HD truck.

A Tundra with e rated tires still rides like a skateboard compared to 35 psi in a C range.

I'm not saying you can't do it, not saying it's bad for the truck, just saying it rides like shit compared to the load range tires that belong on the truck.

Traction is also an issue for all the same reasons. E rated tires do not flex for shit. C rated tires are FAR FAR better off road. Now everyone will say "hurr durrr ma truck is good off road e rated yee haw" but in a realistic comparison, same tires, same truck, same PSI, E vs C... E will break traction LONG before a C will.

 

I really wish there were more non E rated sizes. It sucks that tire companies seem to make all 1 ton tires because everyone else “can” use them

 

I think we can agree ride comfort is relative and I’ll respectfully disagree on the C vs E rated off road because such a blanket statement assumes many circumstances. I could easily argue E rated tires having better traction in certain conditions and being superior off-road for other reasons, namely a 10 ply sidewall.

Think a 6 ply would have survived?

 

My point is your statement says "all E rated tires on a Tundra ride like shit".

I disagree, as my experience says otherwise. My ride is not "like shit". That's of course a subjective statement, while I don't know how my ride could be better, I would certainly not say it "rides like shit".

Later you said:

I'm not going to argue with that. Whether it's true or not, who knows, and, frankly, I don't care, as my ride is FANTASTIC with my E rated tires. But you didn't say equivocally "rides like shit" like you did the first time.

But then afterwards, you once again made a blanket statement above, and I disagree, as my experience says otherwise. Have you ridden in the tires I use yet?

Combined with a 60k warranty, being able to go anywhere, no worry about my tires being overloaded for ANYTHING my truck can handle, no worry about a random thing on the road causing a blowout, all seems like a brainer for me. I'd do it again, and I'll continue to say such in discussions like this, to share my experience with others who are looking for input. (The only thing I wouldn't do again is get the 'tire certificates' from DT.)

Perhaps we should end this with an appropriate YMMV?

Peace; to each their own.

 

Shortly after I got my Es, I picked up a bolt somewhere on one of my tires in the tread. The only reason I found it was because I had a slow leak. I drove hundreds of miles, literally, with that before I got it fixed. The repair guy had a heck of a time getting it out, until I suggested using a socket and a wrench? He gave me a funny look, got a socket and "unscrewed it" from the tire in a jiffy, then patched it up.

I love my Es.

 

Check out Yoko GO15, I have 285/75/18 E, no complaints, good AF in snow, rain, and ice. Quiet too!

 

My Bridgestone revo 3 E’s ride much better than my cooper E’s did. To some extent the manufacturer matters for ride quality. But if I had the option I would have chosen C tires in a heart beat. I’m looking into getting 17” wheels eventually so I can run the factory ford raptor C tires.

 

I have load F on my tundra. They ride fine.

 

My Tundra is a pavement pounder that sees some of the worst roads in Los Angeles. I used to run SL tires since they were lighter and rode better. One day I got a flat tire from a wheel weight in the road, and it went flat in a matter of seconds. I replaced them with E rated KO2s. They have taken a beating and have multiple nails in them, yet have not leaked air in 45k miles. I'm replacing them with E rated Toyo AT3s. The durability of E rated tires and peace of mind driving over anything is worth the trade off of a slightly rougher ride. I'd consider D and maybe C if they were made in the desired size, but I'm staying away from P or SL tires in the future.

 

The KO2, in my experience, is meant for dry desert conditions. The tread pattern is terrible at clearing mud, and they have a tendency to turn hard and brittle at around 20k miles with downright scary wet pavement traction. This was my experience, and there are some big threads on the 4Runner forum with a lot of guys saying the same thing. Whenever I see positive reviews for KO2s, most of the time the person lives around SoCal or AZ. I don’t think this is coincidence. I actually think they’re a good tire in the desert.

Count me among those who love their E load Duratracs. Yeah, I feel bumps and potholes more than with the stock P-rated Michelins, obviously, but they also corner better, feel more stable towing, and they absolutely kill off-pavement. I run them low to mid 20s PSI when off-roading. They float nicely over big rocks. Traction is fantastic. I went up Imogene Pass during heavy rain and hail and had no slippage whatsoever. The DTs are also 3-peak mountain snowflake rated, which will come in handy in your neck of the woods.

 

Yes the KO2’s get terrible after about 2 years of ownership. They lose all wet pavement traction

 

While I wouldn’t call them “terrible” I did lose substantial wet / hard braking distance as my Nitto RGs aged as well.

 

I experienced significant degradation with 2 sets of ko2’s around the same age. Toyo at2 felt like new after 3 years, my current michelins are 2.5 years old and feel same as new as well.

bfg tires are tough as nails in the dirt, but i definitely wouldn’t buy them if one doesn’t offroad much

 

The KO2s that came on my truck are Ds. I tow a 5000lb boat and haul 1500lbs of corn with no problems.

 

Here’s some evidence of why I run load range E tires off road. My p-rated Michelins would be toast. I think it’s likely that C load tires would be as well. At least the third one.

 

Same!
I’m looking into tires, the lift and whatever else has to be changed for it to not ride like shit. Bought with all the stuff done to it and I definitely need some advice. I never planned on a tundra, I always wanted a rocky ridge chevy or gmc or black widow so I didn’t have to mess with this stuff and I am looking for that smooth ride.
I def have E tires, they are 35” it has a 6” lift, no idea what to get , I’m pavement only. I’m looking at Mickey Thompsons just unsure on size. This is all new to me. I wanna fix it or else I’m gonna sell.

 

have nitto grappler g2’s and hate them