Need Help: How to run tonneau drainage tubes when bed is line-x'd.

I work with lots of engineers. Trust me, I get it. Engineers solve problems on paper, and they're damn good at it, BUT they also don't always work in reality. There's an entire program on engineering mistakes and their consequences. They cause plenty of problems too.

Anyway, back to the topic, @MadMaxCanon already indicated that he tested where it drains. Why ignore that data? It's OK to deviate from plans. In fact, many engineered plans have to be adjusted because the engineer didn't take into account reality. See Hubble's initially blurry vision as an example. Pretty sure that was an engineer's mistake. Engineers are fallable.

 

I never claimed to be smart, but I don't conflate education with intelligence, either. I just possess a modicum of common sense and can use basic reasoning to determine an exposed, open hole from the manufacturer draining into the frame is a silly concept. Especially given Toyota's history with rusted frame issues.

Not once have I stated Toyota's system wouldn't work, but I'm not so confined to paper plans as to no be able to adapt to a different approach to a problem. More than way to skin a cat. You know... critical thinking and all that.

 

It’s a good thing the adult of the conversation is doing all the name calling.

I think we all know who the child is…

 

It’s obvious you know very little about design, nor engineering structure and corrosion. And companies deviate from design processes, companies do it all the time, but they do so after design reviews design and engineering approval to make sure those deviations are correct; they change drawings, or add notes to them all the time after analysis and engineering management approval.

You don’t know how the material was coated, and Mad Max does not know where / how it drains - perhaps unless he x-rayed it and followed the flow liquid path in various regimes (statically, at speed and under acceleration at different temperatures) - all can affect flow. You can do what you like with your vehicle, if you’re even own one. As for me, I will do as Toyota says to do. Learn to think critically.

 

We may be starting to agree, there are many ways to skin a cat, that’s true.

However if you’ve looked into the Toyota frame issue, they’ve allegedly corrected the rust problem by using different company (contractor) to make the frames that is actually following Toyota procedure. Dana corporation, an American company in Ohio, was a company that made the frames and they made them wrong, allegedly they did not follow the engineering specifications.. Another company Metalsa (of Mexico) bought their division and supposedly following the correct Toyota process, and making them in the USA

But if you’re going to skin a cat, make sure you have all the data, and I don’t think Mad Max does. So again I will default to Toyotas way. Good luck

 

Have you sealed those holes to prevent water intrusion? You should. It is tge only way to ensure your frame doesnt rust away, and that body panels dont corrode. You have to assume that Toyota's engineers don't know that rain can move through open holes, and would never think to have thoroughly coated body panels for which they issue a corrosion warranty. It is far more logical to think they left it completely exposed to the elements and routed those elements into the frame.

 

Sorry about any rude comments I made, But you’ve got my interest going, and ire up. Another thing there’s an old saying, “arguing with an engineer is like wrestling with a pig in the mud. after a while you realize the pig enjoys it.” Have a good Sunday.

 

And again with your last comment, I assume nothing. You are probably right there is corrosion resistance in the body, but those vehicles like all vehicles still corrode after a while, and I don’t know the path of the flow. I look at data only and make my decisions that way. That is why in one of my first comments I kept saying “I don’t know.” But I will lean on the side of caution, and follow Toyotas installation and manufacturing processes, not that of mad max. If you follow Toyotas instructions, and there is still a problem, at least you may be able to go back to Toyota. Otherwise you’re on your own.

Oh and for the record sealing those holes could lead to other problems like cracking due to heat expansion (maybe, don’t know for sure with out testing) or trapped moisture again causing corrosion you don’t want to seal the holes.

 

We have beat this subject to death, good luck to you

 

Come on guys???? The suspense is killing me. I'm waiting for the next witticism.

 

Corrosion is the realm of materials and mechanical engineers. Chemical (process) engineering deals with something else.

 

I was just pointing out that it doesn't take an engineer for this situation.

 

You guys should just bone and get it over with.

By the way I’m an engineer so I know that this is the solution.

 

In case anyone wants proper instruction for a complicated, multistage procedure for ingress/egress.

https://youtu.be/Wof0xPUmW38

 

Ok so this is the drain holes for my Gatorback tri fold.


The bottom pic is the passenger side with the cali raised molle panel. The factory hole was where the bolt had to go. So I drilled another hole for the drain tube slightly above the factory one above the gold bolt.

 

I didn't doubt your method. The other guy might need it, though.

 

good info! Thanks

 

The bed side right there is completely hollow, grab a straw and spit water out that hole u will see it fall directly down. Your truck may be different but my 21 CM is this way. It would take 400 years for that little bit of water to corrode and rust your bed. BTW,
I am a quality engineer with my degree in mechanical engineering. My job is literally to try my best to find any small design flaw and blow it out of proportion, so i actually appreciate what your concern is. Just squat down and take a look under there it's perfectly fine to do.

 

What the hell????? Is this thread still going???? Just put the damn truck in a vacuum....no more air no more moisture no more corrosion....simple as that !!!!

 

@MadMaxCanon Good to know thanks

 

I like to see this guy make a how to video for fixing the cam tower seep!
guessing it will be a 27 years long video to watch. By then the entire car is rusted out and no need to fix a little seep.