ABS control module

So dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. No 4wd and in some lame limpy mode. Replaced the ABS sensor I thought was bad and that wasn't it.

Broke down and finally took it to a mechanic. They say it's the ABS Control Module or Traction Control Module. No one locally has it in stock. SparksParts looks like they have it but can't give me an exact part number.

Can anyone help me figure out exactly the part number I need? I don't need the hydraulic part of the ABS stuff, more just the computer brains of the operation. It's an expensive part so trying to make sure I order the right one.

Thanks for any help guys

 

Did you call sparks? They also have a chat function on the website. If you speak to someone they should be able to assist.

 

Also, if you only checked one of the ABS sensors, issue could be with one of the others.

 

Hi guys,
I checked all of the wiring harnesses as well as all of the sensors. All checked out fine. They also confirmed that and rechecked it at the mechanics shop.

I did contact Sparks and Micah said he wasn't able to find the exact part number even with my VIN which is weird. He told me I would have to get it off the part. Which means taking it back to the mechanic to have him jack it up and get to the module.......which I'd like to avoid. But I may be stuck.

 

Have you tried clearing the codes? Do they immediately come back? The Stability Control/ABS unit (Skid Control ECU according to Toyota) is always flashing 4Hi/4Lo VSC Off errors it seems but then mine go away and very rarely come back.

Did you look at the actual trouble codes in techstream? If your speedometer gauge still working? It gets its signal from the Skid Control ECU.

I would spend some more time looking for and identifying actual trouble codes before just buying another ECU.

What actual trouble codes is the truck throwing? If cleared how long until they are coming back?

 

Bad wheel bearing can cause "wss" issues FWIW

 

Thanks for the replies.

I had originally thought it was the “tone ring” in the axle. The mechanic said he went through some of that, the harness and the sensors and he thinks it’s the ABS module.

My 4hi and 4lo flash constantly. As well as the e-brake light on, traction loss light and ABS light are on. When I reset the codes they stay off until I move the truck 3’ then all come back on. Everything else works perfectly. Tach/speedo are all good.

I don’t think it’s the ABS module from what I’ve read but. They swear it is. The codes came back as a passenger rear ABS fault. That’s why I thought it was the sensor.

I can post the codes if that would help?

 

Yes please post them.

In my experience all 4 wheels speed sensors have to be working properly or else crazy things will happen. They are the main source of these kind of trouble codes/warnings. Were the codes read with Techstream?

 

Hi Jeff, thanks for the help and posts.

So the codes have been read with multiple units. First they have been read by my cheap crap $50 reader that I have. Then my mechanic buddy brought over some Autel AxiSys computer that read and mapped out every single computer and code that the truck was throwing. It said the same as my dumb code reader. Then after that I just took it to a local mechanic shop and they have the exact same codes and it was read with the Techstream.

Now before I post the codes, I do have multiple issues right now. I have to replace the fuel filler neck due to a leak there, and apparently my charcoal canister has water in it so that has to be replaced too. I'm not sure which codes were the one specific to the ABS so I'm listing all of them and will try to group them into what I think:

P043E Fuel issue
P043F Fuel issue
P2401 EVAP
P2402 EVAP
P2419 Fuel issue
P043E Fuel issue
P0441 Fuel/EVAP
P0445 Fuel/EVAP
P0456 EVAP
C0210 ABS

Now I understand that out of all those codes, only the one is for the ABS, but I'm listing all of what I have going on just in case anything is connected.

When I bought the truck my buddy thought there was a leak in the fuel breather return. He thought when they were adjusting or cutting on the fenders they nicked a line. Mechanic tells me that it's actually a faulty fuel filler neck and there's an updated one. So that part will be ordered.

I have a couple other codes I didn't list. One for the knee airbag.....it was removed to fit my hand controls in(I'm in a wheelchair)......but a resister kit was put in to help with that. So that code should be gone.

There are also the TPS codes because when he installed the new wheels they didn't replace the pressure valve system. That also is on order. All these issues I've just let slide as annoyances for the past few years and it's dang time to get them all sorted lol!

Anyway, thanks for the help. As I mentioned, the tach and speedo work perfect. The lights that are on are as follows:

ABS
BRAKE
LOSS OF TRACTION

Flashing are
4HI
4LO

Mike

 

Quick Google search shows that specific code related to the right rear wheel speed sensor so that is definitely where I would start. Picture below.

Not to hijack this thread but can you share pictures of your driving setup being in a wheelchair an all. I think it would be cool to see. I used to work a at transportation research facility and once drove a Toyota Sienna van that was fully controlled by one joystick. It was handicap equipped (if that the right term) for a person with only on functioning arm to be able to operate. Took 20-30 minutes to get used to and was kinda fun to drive.

I will look more into your fault codes tomorrow. The Abs, Brake, Traction warnings as well as the 4lo 4hi are all triggered by the Skid control ecu (ABS) when it sees a fault code.

 

Hahaha yeah I can post some pics of the setup. It's a muddy dirty mess right now. Let me get it cleaned up and I'll get some pics up of the hand control set up!

And I replaced the passenger side ABS sensor and there was no change.........

So I think it's either the module or the axle seal. Just don't know which. Mechanics say it's module so.

 

Considering you have water damage issues, there is a chance your rear diff breather sucked in water causing rear diff oil contamination leading to wheelbearing/tone ring/hub assembly damage. There isn't much to the tone rings on these, kinda part of the bearing in a round about way. Really sensitive and easily roasted once the bearing gets a little wear.

 

Dan,
That's also my thought as well. It just seems weird that it would be the whole module that would just suddenly go out with no other issues present. But water in the filter leads me to sort of think that it's the rear axle. Especially since the code keeps coming up as the passenger rear.

 

I personally would be looking for at the rear sensors. I’m not well versed in how the axle seal throws it off but know it can happen.

My understanding is the wheel speed sensor counts teeth on a rotor as it spins. The sensors ability to count could be fine it just isn’t seeing the rotor correctly. Almost like my eyes work great to read but if you turn the lights off I can’t read anymore.

I think it very unlikely the ECU just failed in such a minor way. Might be best to get your mechanic to pull the rear wheel assemblies apart and take a very close look.

 

My only hesitation would be this. The canister that has water in it is a defect from Toyota I've been told. So since it's in front of the rear wheel water eventually got in. At least that's what I was told. Apparently like my fuel filler neck Toyota has updated both of these parts with a better replacement.

The truck has never been in water deep enough to get in any of the breather holes on that rear axle. That doesn't mean it doesn't have water in it......I'm still leaning towards the rear seal vs anything but that's one of my nagging thoughts when it's rear seal vs ABS module being the cause.

Another thing. The emergency brake light. That first came on MONTHS ago. And I thought it was the switch sending unit just above the ebrake release. But reading more it sounds like it's along the same lines of issues as the ABS thing. That also leads me to believe that maybe that was maybe the start of things going bad and eventually it got bad enough to mess up the tone ring.

I feel if it was the ABS module being the problem, it all would have went to hell together vs slowly.

Just trying to rationalize my thoughts here.

 

Does your RR hub get hotter than the others when driving? Get an infrared gun and check all 4 after a good drive.

Raise the wheel off the ground and rotate it - is there a gritty feel from / within the hub?

 

Burrito,
So it's tough to tell with running 37's. There's so much mass there. When I jack up the rear end all feels very smooth and no grinding. I haven't pulled a wheel off but will try that next along with testing the heat.

Getting the wheel up in the air though......at slow rotation there is no sound. But get it spinning in a regular motion all the way around in a full 360 there is noticeable "clicking" that I don't notice on the L side. It seems like it's at a couple of the same points. So it clicks at both the 4 o'clock, 6 o'clock and then 11 o'clock positions for example. Not sure if it's supposed to click or make any noise. But there's definite clicking going on there. Similar to the sound when you snap an uncooked spaghetti noodle.