What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'm really a dumb doodle for wanting a lower clearance front bumper with curves. I am not a true wheeler. I just don't really think I have the nads to get up close to rocks and stuff.

 

That was plan B before plan C. There’s a good video by some savant that did it and based on his findings, it’s a go. He gets into great math and structural calcs. I went a different route because ABS isn’t actually pressure rated. It is good however for like 120 psi at 6” pipe. Fine because 30 psi will power your hose/shower. But, fittings, bulkheads and stuff add up, it wasn’t that much cheaper for what I wanted to do. And if I shared air and water in the same ABS tank, I was around 3-4 gallons water and with over pressure concerns (not big ones, just very limited in what PSI I could put in there). And under truck, the water fill would be a bitch. Or fill with pressure back flowing the supply end. Really, I need a system that can handle residential hose pressure so I can hit @Casper421 when he races by in his highlander.

 

Lots of people get close to rocks with stock bumpers. You are fine regardless.

 

I so misread this/ didnt start far enough back...i read it as a Washer fluid reservoir (not pressurized). For wash down systems i use a soda syrup canister (pre bag in a box, like a keg) pressurized from my OBA. My old man was a Coke tech his whole life so always had the old syrup canisters around.

 

Now we are talking. My primary air tank could end up an Aluminum 80 SCUBA tank with a manifold on it. I's a great plan, but I just gave up some of my best real estate to water, so maybe a spun number like @FrenchToasty has will fit better.

 

ive thought about it. But theres not really enough space for anything this big.

 

One big tank fits with spare delete, but most aren't doing that. If those have 3/4 NPT threads and you ever do it, I have a parts list.

 

So i'm new here, just picked up a "new to me" 2002 tundra from my grandpa yesterday after 2 years of driving the most unreliable infiniti G37 on earth. It's been kept pretty clean, 90k miles and practically spotless interior.

Headliner was peeling in the front so i decided to take on the "exciting" task of pulling it out and wrapping it in black suede as part of my first step into a complete black interior conversion. It's far from perfect, had some wrinking issues in some spots as you'll see in the pictures but i'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

 

It's dark. Bold move. A complete black interior conversion sounds pricey.

 

indeed. should be a fun project however, will be done a little at a time as to not drain the wallet.

 

I would say try to trade the plastics, but did they make black plastics for these trucks?

 

Headliner looks nice. I'm just gonna hop in with my usual questions. Timing belt age and mileage? Lower ball joints in good shape? Frame rust?
Welcome to the forum!

 

Nothing exciting - washed the truck last weekend then drove it under the pole barn, covered and parked it. It won't see a lot of action with gas prices like they are...
I tried a new tire shine I picked up from Costco, a bit shiny for my taste but since it is a 3pk I'll deal with it.


(think Heather would be proud?)


Finally making time this week to get it to the dealer for the 2nd passenger airbag recall.

 

I don't believe these trucks came with black interior. i've looked for spare parts and they all seem to be the same grey/tan colors.

 

timing belt was changed a week ago when my grandpa had it serviced. All ball joints are in great shape, no rust that i could find while I crawled underneath. ODO is at 90,000 miles and thanks for the welcome!

 

And...I just got done giving the exterior a good washin'.

 

Actually, as I learned recently from a snow boob, the T3 edition indeed has black interior.

Best bet is probably to re-finish them with vinyl interior paint. Some initial prep involved, and you should top-coat with an eggshell clear. SEM makes exceptional paints for this. A lot of interior parts are painted from the factory in other models. Ford and GM were notorious for it, and the mis-match problems folks would find if they tried to swap parts from one truck to another.

 

Yeah, my plan was to just use a vinyl paint to refinish the pieces to black. I've been sitting on about 10 cans of DupliColor black vinyl paint and a couple cans of adhesive promoter for a while now as i was planning on doing that to my G37s. Haven't heard of the eggshell clear top-coat though, i'll definitely look into doing that. Does it offer anything other than a nicer finish/protectant vs just straight vinyl paint with no clear?

 

I can't answer that question for you but I would consider applying black felt to items that may rub on your painted finishes. Like on the back of the seatbelt buckles where they hit the trim on the outside of the seat or the receiver side of the buckle next to the console, things like that.

 

Same as clearcoat on the exterior, it provides added rubout and scratch protection. General recommendation I'd offer up is 3-4 light coats of the colorant to fill it in, then 5-6 light coats of clear to lock it down.

While I prefer SEM products and have used them most of the time, on my last GM vehicle, I used ColorBond products and was just as happy (maybe happier?) than SEM's coatings. I have it stuck in my craw OEMs use SEM products at the factory, but damn if I recall which ones.

Anyway, ColorBond has a "satin" (which is basically like eggshell, slightly glossy, but not unnaturally glossy like straight-up gloss paint would be). This is it. If you look at your stock interior right now, you'll notice it's shiny, but like, a dull shiny. With exception of in-lays and woodgrain panels, most car interiors aren't glossy, they're more satin/eggshell. Don't make the mistake of going full-gloss.

Anyway, I realize you have DupliColor, I have no beef with them particularly, it's the AutoZone ricer kid favorite. Whatever you do, stick with the same brand and line of product for best compatibility. Don't mix and match products.

Last advice I'd give - other than 5 hours of prep to do 10 minutes of painting is how OEM-looking finishes are made, prep is everything, learn how to properly do it - is to take your time, don't do heavy coats, and look very carefully at each can specifically paying careful attention to the "recoat window", which is the amount of time to wait between your light coats.

And like @abcinv warns ... you're never going to beat what was installed OEM. If you're even moderately hard on your truck, or you're clumsy, you're better off trying to source used panels because you will have chips and rubouts, and it'll look like ass. Or just be happy with the color you've got.

 

did the carrier bearing and all the u-joints, now gotta find time to do the upper control arms and lower ball joints.

 

Got all my driveshaft zerks greased. I just added grease, until some of the old stuff came out. Should I keep filling to purge all the old grease or was what I did adequate? For the slip yoke zerk, I believe its called. I filled then removed the zerk and jumped up and down on the bumper to get the truck to bounce a bit and allow any extra pressure and grease to come out. I read that in a forum post elsewhere. Is that a good method for ensuring proper grease of the slip yolk? Thanks guys.

Also I used "Heather's" great method of shaving the grease gun tip down a bit to fit in that last zerk on the 4wd drive shaft. Worked great! Miss that guy

 

What you've done is adequate. Pump until you see some old nasty stuff come out. I've met guys who like to pump until they see fresh grease ooze out. It's more cleanup, or more sling if you don't clean up. (Tip: Do clean up, feel free to rub old grease into any exposed steel nearby).

I pumped a few times, hopped up and down on bumper, pumped a couple of times, and called it a day. That's what I was told to do in whatever thread dealt with lazy sods greasing their driveshaft.

Not saying you'll notice a huge difference, but nearly immediately all of my clunks when stopping and accelerating at stop lights went away. Night and day difference.

 

Huh, guess there were a few...

 

I saw a T3 once IRL. I knew I should have bought it on the spot. I think it was new at the time. I was broke then.

 

Decided to make time today, playing hooky from work. I've had the uppers and lowers for a year now, I'm on a roll wrenching might as well get this knocked out. plus been paranoid about the lbj. I have fairly low miles on the truck but all the bushings are bad.

 

Good luck. Wear eye pro

 

Also, don't forget to stay hydrated.

 

Oh, hope you got a Sawzall, diablo blades, lower cam sleeves, bolts, and plates. You might need em!

 

Painted the wheels and threw A/Ts on it.