2nd gen cluster

Also just found this - appears to be s list of various vehicles and the chip they use, along with whether or not you can use the clip adapter to reprogram. It aligns with the 93C66. I'm guessing the 93C56 is the 1G Tundra...

https://www.fvdiobd.com/download/TOYOTA_mileage_reset_list.pdf

 

So this thread on the Sienna forums seems like it would be almost spot-on how to do these swaps on the Tundra as well. The list of required parts they put together are pretty much all included in the earlier EZP2019 links I posted earlier, but I'll be looking through all of this stuff to see if it can be done cheaper (although it won't be usable on a wider variety of things...not sure if anyone will ever care about using the setup to potentially program other chips!).

https://www.siennachat.com/threads/...nt-cluster-swap-and-odometer-reprogram.18355/

 

What's the cost for having them do that?

 

Almost $97 with taxes included and you have to pay shipping, which cost me around $33.

 

That seems pretty in-line...Tanin quoted me $104.99 plus shipping.

 

Gathering some of my thoughts here as I watch the videos a few more times:

1. The modifications required on the $10 programmer with scratching out lines and adding jumpers is required to make is a 93X chip type (apparently different than the 24/25 chips), which to me says that the one I linked from Aliexpress/Amazon for a little more already has those connections built in, so no mods needed there. I'm guessing you'd just need to use the correct adapter to fit the chip on the board of the cluster. Which adapter is that? Yep...no clue!

2. The Toyota chip is apparently a 16-bit EEPROM, so there may have to be some jumpers used in addition to the adapter...but I'm guessing these are accounted for in the included bits and pieces since it lists it as compatible with the 93 chips, which would seem odd if there was additional soldering/jumping/trace scraping required.

I *think*, all in all, the EZP2019 should work out for what we're talking. The one thing I'm wondering about is the voltage, since we're needing 5v. But with that said, on the $10 programmer he's simply removing the 3.3v trace and jumping it to the 5v trace, so the USB output is capable of the required voltage (based on my searching, any USB port is), but with the EZP saying it auto-detects voltage, I'm curious to see how it does that (it does say it's capable of 3.3-5v and includes an adapter for 1.8v to sep it down for other chips). There's not a lot of information out there on the EZP, and it seems like there's not really a manual per se, so you just have to have some understanding/knowledge of how these things work (mine is rudimentary, at best).

I did find this: https://www.katranji.com/tocimages/files/460195-290332.pdf

It has a whole lot of chips listed, and several 93C66 listed from various manufacturer.

Based on @Tundra3k picture, the chip is a CSI 93C66VI, and there's a ton of info out there on the chip: https://www.kynix.com/Detail/444517/93C66VI.html

It says it's capable of 1.8-5v...which I'm not sure what that means for the whole 5V read/write in an auto environment? I think maybe I'm getting along a better train of thought here, as there's zero info I've been able to find about programming this specific chip in a Toyota...I think my search needs to just be more of a "how to program a 93 chip with the EZP2019" kind of thing. It's just a chip right? It will be essentially the same whether it's in a car, a plane, a computer...used for mileage storage, airbags, flight info or BIOS...

 

Well...it won't be here until late-March to early-April, and I spent an extra $5 to order it from eBay (since I don't have an Aliexpress account), but I'm now the proud owner of an EZP2019 chip programmer...thingy. What the hell did I just do?

 

You have an extra cluster to experiment with?

 

So I should have the necessary programming hardware as well for the odo mileage programming. Since I do not have a ODO to test on. I think i'll buy a 93c66 chipset and experiment on it for now. BTW if anyone want to experiment with an extra cluster down in Atl area send me a ping. I have the theory..lol now need a specimen to test on.

 

Looks just my bench measurements were pretty close. I dug up the actual ranges for the fuel gauge from the TIS today.

These are both from a 2012 5.7L Truck. First is Non Flex (3UR-FE), Second is Flex Fuel (3UR-FBE)


Basically the Non Flex Fuel Sender and Gauge operate on a Range of 12-415 Ohm, while the Flex Fuel Sender and Gauge operate on a Range of 111-514 Ohm. Essentially the Flex Fuel Gauge is offset by 100 Ohms from "normal operation". If the total normal (non flex) range is 12-415 Ohm, 100 Ohm is about 25% or 1/4, reasons your needle is off by 1/4 Tank when you mix and match these.

If you put a Flex Fuel Gauge/Cluster on a Non Flex Truck with a Non Flex Sender, When the tank full the sender is a 0 ohm which would show full plus some on the Gauge. When the tank is at 1/4 the gauge on the dash will show 1/2

If you put a Non Flex Gauge/Cluster on a Flex Fuel Truck with a Flex Fuel Sender, When the tank full the sender is a 100ohm which would show 3/4 of a tank on the Gauge. When the tank is at 1/4 the gauge on the dash will show E
The most interesting think about this it is only seems to matter on 2012 and up trucks.

When I looked up the range for the sender on 2011 and older years, the Flex Fuel Sender operates at the same range as the Non Flex. Seems for whatever reason in 2012 Toyota decided to add the 100 Ohm 1/4 Offset. This tells me any 2011 and older Flex Fuel cluster is completely plug and play with a Non Flex Truck as far as Gas Gauge operation.

Here is the Flex Fuel Sender page for a 2011 as proof.

 

Hmm, so I could technically just solder in a 100 ohm resistor in series with the sender wire somewhere and be on my way? That may be far easier that pulling the tank to replace the pump. I bet the sender wire is buried somewhere under the driver's side door sill... hmmmm....

 

Actually this is not the worst idea I have ever heard, very clever. My idea was to reclock the needle on the gauge to account for the offset.

Assuming you have a Flex Gauge on a truck with a non flex sender. Adding 100 Ohms in series would make your sender operate in the range of 100-500 Ohm instead of 0-400 Ohm, IE the range the Flex gauge is looking for.

Here is the wiring diagram for the sender on a 2007. I think you could add the resistor inline on Violet Pin 12 or Yellow Pin 39. The TIS Above is measure the resistance between Pins 2 Yellow/Green and Pin 3 Green/Red on the sender.



Looks like the wires are in the RA1 Junction connecter here:

OR here at the AJ4 junction, passenger side below the dash.

 

AJ4 looks like a sensible place to do the damage.

 

Would anyone happen to have a pin out diagram for the harness plug for the instrument cluster? Thanks

 

This should be pretty close. Its from the wiring diagram of my 2007. Depending on what year your connector came form some of the wiring colors may be slightly different.

 

Appreciate it man!

 

I don't yet, but I may just play with my old one to see if I can dink around with the mileage to get comfortable prior to doing it on the 'new' Optitron.

I've been slacking on stuff the last few days, working on completing an accent wall and built-in fireplace insert...priorities. :|

 

Did you get the USB one from the videos and modify it to work with the 93 chips?

 

So that aligns exactly with what I've found so far with the cross-referencing cluster numbers on FFV vs. non-FFV trucks

Validation!!

 

Update on my cluster…
The local guy programmed it wrong, he programmed it to 198k, not 98k. He couldn’t fix it, so I had to send it to Odometer Solutions in Florida.

The previous solder job was total crap, he got it programmed to the right mileage, but one of the tabs were broken during shipping. I’ll jb weld that tab back and call it good.

Here’s their link on eBay if anyone needs their cluster programmed. His communication through text and turn around time is really quick!
https://ebay.com/usr/odometersolutions

Now, we wait for it to come back.

 

Egads...I'm fairly confident in saying *I* could have done that solder job for you! At least he didn't ruin anything else along the way, although that circuit board looks like it's seen better days. Crappy on the tab breaking, but should be an easy fix! Time to buy an otherwise-unneeded plastic welder!

 

@Tundra3k - Even just having 3 of the screws holding it down is sufficient I believe. I just put mine in again today and I thought about using just 2.

 

I could honestly solder better than that! I’ve soldered for many years but lack the programming part. Hence, I thought I would support local.

I may swap the back housing if it’s the same as my original. We shall see.

Glad it’s taken care of and on the way back to me!

 

4 words...Temperature controlled soldering iron (with a side order of flux).

Maybe it just needs the residual flux removed? Some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush should remove any residual.

 

Yeah thats the plan.. although I have yet to do it b/c of life getting in the way..lol but that shall be the plan.

 

Sounds like we've all got plans! Race to see who gets to it first

 

Sorry, didn't read this all the way through, but it seems like this is all centered around making the Optitron work (unless you specifically want the 2.5 gen cluster). The Optitron looks awesome, I get it, but why not just do an LED swap? It also looks good once completed with far less headaches. Here's the post with a few pics of mine: https://www.tundras.com/threads/raspberry-pi-open-auto-pro-carputer-build.102721/

 

I'm not sure it's simpler to de-solder several LEDs in the cluster after you take it all apart, get the correct LEDs, re-solder them all to the board and then re-install it. Not terribly difficult I'm sure...but if you get the right cluster (basically why I did all the legwork pulling info on several variations of year/model/drive/FFV) it's plug and play.

I am planning on putzing around with my old cluster once I complete the swap, and LEDs are on the list, so the link is helpful. I'd like to see which LEDs you used and have some other questions...but I'll go read the thread and chime in there if necessary.

I'll here as well - I do have plans to update ALL the LEDs in the cab to a different color...most likely blue, from the standard ugly orange.

 

This arrived in the mail today

 

Fun!

Now get to scrapin' solderin' and re-purposin' that thing to reprogram your cluster!