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Drive Monitor Wiring - MPG

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Kaner, Apr 29, 2021.

  1. Apr 29, 2021 at 3:53 PM
    #1
    Kaner

    Kaner [OP] New Member

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    I am trying to get the drive monitor mpg function to work on my Tundra. I have gotten a new Drive Monitor module and installed it. The plug in had all 8 wires so I was hoping it would work but it did not.

    I have all the wires from the drive monitor module to the J28 female plug. I am assuming I need to add two wires from the J28 male plug to the JL 1 Male Plug

    I removed the front dash bezel and the gauge cluster to add the missing wires but the instructions I have found on line don't seem to mesh with the wiring I have. it says that you need to:
    • Connect J28 / Pin 28 to JL1 / Pin17
    • Connect J28 / Pin 30 to JL1 / Pin 19
    However, there already seems to be wires occupying 3 of the 4 pins and they don't match. Any thoughts? Here is the wiring diagram and pictures of my truck with the corresponding wire harness's

    upload_2021-4-29_17-51-14.jpg

    upload_2021-4-29_17-46-10.jpg
     
  2. May 17, 2021 at 1:39 PM
    #2
    Harold_Z

    Harold_Z New Member

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    Looking forward to see your results, I am trying to find some instructions to do this but haven't find any yet.
     
  3. Sep 11, 2021 at 9:44 AM
    #3
    funcxion

    funcxion New Member

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    Kaner, any luck with this? I have the same exact wiring as your pictures and could not fogure it out either yo get it working.
     
  4. Sep 13, 2021 at 2:37 PM
    #4
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    This was something that I am very interested to making work. At all the folks that message on this and did'nt get anywhere.. Here's a pdf that may help find our way to getting this mod done.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Sep 18, 2021 at 10:45 PM
    #5
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    Ok, So I was successful in getting this done today. Here's what I did.. I went directly from J28 connector (the back of the instrument panel) directly into the L2 8pin Connector (Info Meter Panel). IMHO you can just skip going to JL1 connectors.

    The What
    Go directly from J28 to L2 to the following pins

    Just to make it clear -

    J28 is the connector on instruments panel.
    L2 is the info panel 8 pin connector.

    J28 - - > L2

    PIN 28 to 2
    PIN 30 to 3


    The Wire Setup prep - just use 1 of ethernet wire each (just one needed for each pin)

    I used some Ethernet wire 24 agw (single wire copper wire) and

    1. stripped around 1-1.25 inch of each wire
    2. and folded the strip portion over on to itself. So you now have a 3/4 inch strip portion 2x thick.
    3. and gave them a twist to make the wire bind each other to put into the pin from the back.

    In the end you should have around 3/4in double twisted wire. Note - the J28 might need more than 1 in, it may need 3/4in to 1in double twist.

    If you do not do this the wire will slip out of connector.

    How much wire do you need - I used around 2.5-3ft of the wire. You should have enough if you mess up and need more wire to strip.

    *Keep track of the wire color you put into pin 28 and 30 as they need to go to pin 2 & 3 respectively on the L2 connector.

    L2 Connector setup -
    if you do not have any wires in L2 Pin 2 & 3. Just stick the respective wires you put from the J28 and hope you will make a connection similar to the J28 pins. I say hope b/c sometime it will not make a connection. So you will have to adjust.

    If you already have 8-Wires on the L2 - If you have the 8 wires on there like mine had. DO THIS. With a mini flathead screwdriver open the top white wire panel of the L2 connector (see last picture). Once this is done stick the wires coming from J28 connector into the appropriate L2 pin over the existing wires*. Wires in pin 2 and 3 should short each other (not touch each other). once done just fit the white panel section back on the connector.

    The How?

    1st - take both the J28 and L1 connectors out of the socket - You will see the female connectors if you looking at them from front. Twist them over to the back where the wires are going into the connector.

    2nd - And stick the stripped wires into the back side of the J28 connector - pin 28 and pin 30 - see below.

    3rd - Carefully thread the wire through the dash from J28 conn towards L2 conn

    4th - Stick the stripped wires into L2 connector* - Pin 2 & 3 - See below

    5th - Turn the car on and check and test it out to see if it works.

    6th - If it works put some electrical tape around the pins you just put in to ensure they do not wiggle and come out.

    7th - if that didnt work check your work again and ensure the pins are able to touch the male junction pins and not short each other. It should work as intended.

    8th - Once you made it work tighten things up. Put electric wire on the back of the pins on J28 and L2 to secure them. Ensure the wires do not lose up with vibration.

    9th - Secure the ethernet wires between J28 and L2.

    Where to stick the ethernet pins/wires?

    J28 Connector
    - Pin 28 - is the 8th pin in the back of connector, top row or between the Pink and Orange wires - Ping 30 is the 10th between the Orange & Yellow wires - Both of these likely don't have any wires in them so they should be easy to spot.
    J28 Connector Back Marked.jpg

    L2 Connector - Pin 2 is the Light Green wire right after the Pink wire. And obviously Pin 3 is right after Pin 2 in Sky Blue color
    L2 Info Display Connector.jpg

    Example of how the L2 connector looks with the wires stuck in.
    L2 Info Display Connector Final.jpg

    Tundra Info panel circuit.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2022
    PolishedTRD, Ohannon7 and MTRock like this.
  6. Feb 27, 2022 at 7:46 AM
    #6
    Ohannon7

    Ohannon7 New Member

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    This is what I need to do, and sort of did, but the home made set-up keeps sliding out for me and I lose button functionality.

    I was hoping and praying that someone was able to locate the OEM wire harness #’s so I can just buy an OEM plug-n-play factory wire harness, I just don’t know the part number or how to find it
     
  7. Feb 27, 2022 at 7:54 AM
    #7
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    hmm
    So I am not sure if its as easy of finding out the correct wiring. As you can see clearly the OEM wiring harness goes though a big maze of connections. Even if you located the wiring, replacing all the stuff would be a nightmare. I would suggest you tape the heck out of your connections and see if that help. My connections are rock solid.
     
  8. Feb 27, 2022 at 4:52 PM
    #8
    Ohannon7

    Ohannon7 New Member

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    Yes, good point.
    The oem pin is pushing my homemade wire back, so just the ends are touching, which makes the main/middle button work intermittently.

    i didn’t really take my time like you did as I did this prior to your post above. I think I need to open up the harness and place a single wire in like you did. Hopefully I have time this week to make that happen.
    Thank you

     
  9. Feb 27, 2022 at 5:15 PM
    #9
    Ohannon7

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  10. Sep 13, 2022 at 3:53 PM
    #10
    Swainc999

    Swainc999 New Member

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    I’m having so much trouble could any one call or text me?
     
  11. Sep 14, 2022 at 4:50 AM
    #11
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    Okay green thumbs let's start here, be descriptive, why don't you tell us your issue, & what problem are you having. And maybe just maybe we have seen it. And if can't well call you. How about that.
     
  12. Jan 2, 2023 at 3:59 PM
    #12
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Ok...I have all 8 wires in the plug for the drive monitor switch. I don't have said wires missing in the J28 plug either..I have a red wire coming out of slot 28 and a blue wire coming out of slot 30.
    I am also NOT missing said 20230102_160638.jpg 20230102_155910.jpg wires in the Jl 1.
    I have a blue wire in slot 19 and a red wire in slot 17...so I give up...what am I supposed to do now??
    Should I try adding additional wire in the already existing red and blue wires coming from the L28 plug to the monitor switch plug that also has all 8 wires??
    Again..I've bought a new monitor switch already and I still have nothing...Can't even switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit...it's stuck on Celsius, which I hate ,but at this point may just have to live with it
     
  13. Jan 4, 2023 at 2:10 PM
    #13
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    From your photos everything looks correct however double check it all. This wiring diagram should help.

    Have you verified right wires on both sides of JL1 junction? Can you post a picture of your L2 switch wiring?

    Does you hazard switch still work to turn on blinkers? If not your may have a bad ground on Pin 5 of L2 Switch.

    J28----------JL1 Junction-------L2 Switch
    28(Red) - 17(Red/Light Green) - 2(Light Green)
    29(Beige)- 20(Beige/Blue) - 4 (Blue)
    30(Blue) - 19(Blue/Sky Blue) - 3(Sky Blue)
    upload_2023-1-4_16-6-37.jpg
     
  14. Jan 6, 2023 at 2:12 PM
    #14
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    20230106_161754.jpg 20230106_161652.jpg
    Maybe I should just go directly from the J28 plug into the L2 monitor switch plug...even though wires already exist?
    Emergency flashers work fine.
     
  15. Jan 6, 2023 at 4:06 PM
    #15
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    I would get the volt meter out and check for continuity from the switch to the back of the cluster. See which if any of the wires have a connection all the way through. If one doesn’t you know where to go look

    You could also use a paper clip to “jump” the say pin 4 blue wire to the pin 5 ground. See if it changes from C to F when doing so. This bypasses the factory switch to see if the wiring is complete
     
  16. Jan 22, 2023 at 3:35 PM
    #16
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Well...I have continuity in ALL of the wires coming from the J28 plug to the L2 switch plug. I have good ground also. Also checked to see there is current going to the L2.
    I don't understand...it should be working.
    Frustrating
     
  17. Jan 22, 2023 at 4:22 PM
    #17
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    Your display is on the center of the dash correct? With the clock? I assume it is updating and working properly.

    Did you try the paperclip method I mentioned to “jump” the wires at the L2 connector?

    If all of your wiring is correct may need to verify the connection to the back of the accessory meter/display in the dash.
     
  18. Jan 22, 2023 at 4:25 PM
    #18
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    You could use the voltmeter on one wire of the J28 plug and the other end of the meter to ground. When you push the corresponding button say “info” it should beep continuity to ground.

    You would be testing that your button inputs are actually making it into the cluster. If they are then your problem is somewhere else, most likely between the cluster and accessory meter display.
     
  19. Jan 22, 2023 at 4:49 PM
    #19
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Yes, I tried the paperclip test and it didn't do anything. Clock works fine. Thanks for all of your help
     
  20. Jan 22, 2023 at 5:32 PM
    #20
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    You do understand that pushing any of the three buttons just sends a ground pulse up the wire and into the cluster right? The microchip in the cluster sees the ground pulse and then changes the data on the screen by the clock.

    As I stated above my next step would be put the voltmeter to continuity setting, it should beep when it feels a continuous flow between the leads.

    Put one lead on the the wire in the J28 connector, you can do it with it unplugged from the cluster. Put the other lead of the meter to ground. As you push the button that corresponds to each wire in J28 info, setup, reset… the meter should beep meaning the cluster is seeing the ground pulse come in.

    Test each wire/button combo one by one. You don’t have to remove the voltmeter lead to ground ever.

    If all three wires beep your problem is between the cluster and the accessory meter display.

    This will verify the buttons and wiring are correct and the cluster is getting the right signals.
     
  21. Jan 23, 2023 at 3:29 PM
    #21
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Ok..I didn't really think about the 3 buttons sending a ground pulse up to the sensor..I would guess that is similar to the same way a light switch works? When the switch is off ,ground is not connected ,turn the switch on, ground is connected and circuit is closed/ completed ..So...I just tested each button like you suggested and all 3 beeped..so now at least I know for sure where the problem is NOT.
    Next question is do I want to go any farther just to see Fahrenheit instead of Celsius?
    Not sure how much work is necessary to get to that meter? And testing it or the wiring. If it's just taking out the radio assembly and that gives access to it, I may give it a go.I hate the feeling of being defeated on a project, but I'm getting a little flustered fooling with this...sure appreciate your guidance.
     
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  22. Jan 23, 2023 at 3:48 PM
    #22
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    Consider it a good learning experience right! Many of times I have been the super frustrated one.

    Yes removing the radio will allow you access to the monitor but I wouldn’t go that far yet.

    Next step would be to look at connection between the cluster and the monitor and understand how it works.

    The fact you are getting a ground pulse one each wire at J28 coming into the cluster is great news. Proves you weren’t going crazy looking at wiring.

    What does the cluster look like in your truck? Can you post a photo? I have a small fear the very base ones might night support message transmission to the meter but I could be very wrong.

    Time for more research first.
     
  23. Jan 23, 2023 at 4:50 PM
    #23
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    The Accessory meter (display in the dash with the clock) only has one data transmission line shown here in yellow with red arrows. It comes out of the cluster on pin#31 passes through the JK1 junction and turns into a purple wire that goes into the accessory meter. Looking above at your photos it seems you have the Yellow wire on J28 pin #31 coming out of the cluster.

    Is the Outside Temperature shown and properly updating on your dash/meter? You can see the AC Amplifier in this diagram it is the ECU responsible for reading in the outside temp and sending in throughout the truck. The cluster seems to be a middle man passing the temp along to the meter/display. Long story short if the Temp is shown and updating on your dash the communication line is working (this is the only way for it to receive the temp data)

    You may check the fuses shown here at the top to make sure your meter/display is being properly powered.
    7.5A Dome
    7.5A ECU-IG No.1
    7.5A ACC



    upload_2023-1-23_18-44-37.jpg
     
  24. Jan 23, 2023 at 4:58 PM
    #24
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    Also FYI when this is working it will show you MGP data, Avg and Instant I think as well as range to empty. Its more than just a simple control to change Temp units from F to C ect
     
  25. Jan 23, 2023 at 5:11 PM
    #25
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Yes, I knew thats what it is supposed to do, especially since I have all 8 wires. I would like to have all those functions, but if I just got normal Temperature, instead of Celsius I'd be happy. My meter does show and change Temperature, it just won't switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
     
  26. Jan 23, 2023 at 5:16 PM
    #26
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Here's one with a wiring plug for sale on Ebay. $60


    Screenshot_20230123_201406_eBay.jpg
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
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  27. Jan 23, 2023 at 5:16 PM
    #27
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    I would double check the fuses shown above. Might get lucky with a power delivery issue.

    Other than that you could be getting into a problem deep within one of the ECUs, possibly the cluster. I am not familiar with the data transmission format or how to read the communication line to see what it is saying. I don't have one to test on.

    Something weird is defiantly going on. Was your truck originally sold in Canada by chance? Could explain why the default is C. Has it been stuck in C ever since you bought it?
     
  28. Jan 23, 2023 at 5:24 PM
    #28
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Yes...this truck has spent its entire life in Canada. I just bought it right after Halloween. It came from Rochester, car fax shows it being in Canada since new...I was thinking that same thing about the temperature being in Celsius. Also when I tried connecting my phone to it, it, the truck, talked to me in French with instructions, and I can't figure out how to change the language either.
     
  29. Jan 23, 2023 at 5:27 PM
    #29
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

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    It’s not a limited with this cluster is it? If so the data you are looking for will be on the cluster display.
    DE3F2AAC-30F6-40D7-B496-4655838D6238.jpg


    If you have the cluster with the orange back lighting the data will be on the accessory meter in the dash by the clock.

    Canadian trucks are definitely default to C. I know it can be changed just 100% sure right now how. Might needs Toyotas Techstream software
     
  30. Jan 24, 2023 at 4:47 PM
    #30
    bvshearz

    bvshearz New Member

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    Bob
    My trucks a 2011 SR5 model. Here's my dash cluster. Also..considering buying that meter off Ebay for $60 , just out of curiosity. Although I'm not sure it would do any good, or if it's worth the time and troub20230124_171027.jpg 20230124_173507.jpg 20230124_174515.jpg le of swapping it out...not sure how much it involves. Took the bezel out tonight and it looks like maybe 2 Phillips bolts is all it takes..there'sthe wirefor it ...I get up and go to work at 330 a.m. , so 8 pm is my bedtime. Thanks again Jeff
     
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    #30

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