What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

200k seems fair with no symptoms. Sometimes things wear quicker. But im sure some folks have been 300k+. More luck than talent. 200k seems like a decent age to freshen everything regardless. Unless you wanna go for 250k and claim a quarter mil badge.

 

I'm not going to replace mine unless they start making noise.

 

Why the hell didn't she replace the dust shield?!? New hub but no dust shield? lol

Looks like way too many adapters to get that press to work. I think I'm doomed.

 

I’ve heard the pros wear extremely fast and people only getting 30k miles before they’re unbearably loud. I have around 40k on the st maxx’s. If they were available, I’d go with them again. The yokos have great tread wear from what I’ve read and will last 50k+.

 

I vote the burn out route!!

 

That is my only concern with going with a mud terrain next time. You do more offroading than me so it makes sense.

 

I would think 250k would be the mark, I think that's the service life Toyota engineered our trucks around. Just check them every 20k miles or so for play, noise, or drag. Mine are like new with 150k on them.

 

IDK mine appear to be going at 240K which is only 140K over the last time they were replaced under warranty. Maybe the OEM replacements don't last as long as the originals?

 

Would the rust in your area play a factor? In your case, the replacements actually lasted longer than your originals. Strange that they failed so early.

 

New tie rod ends, steering rack boots and bushings, greased driveline and changed the oil.

 

Actually the originals were replaced as part of the brake TSB for vibration. Got $2300 in work done under warranty for front wheel bearings, rotors turned and upgraded brake calipers.

They also replaced the rear wheel bearings and turned the drums as well in a separate TSB warranty fix months later.

 

The way I understand the JBL system it's like an active system so each of the three channels (tweeter, mid, woofer) is coming straight from the amp. So, the front amplifier is a 6 channel amplifier. Each speaker is , so tweeter 2ohm from amp to 2ohm speaker. Same for mid and woofer. So if I put in a 4ohm woofer then it will be softer than the other speakers and I'll have to tune it, thus ruining it since I can't seem to tune anything. Also, the aftermarket brackets for the woofer don't have a spot for the mid so if I just buy a woofer then I'll have to figure out some mounting option into the oem bracket.

The OEM speakers are over $300 a piece. It seems like I could get a better than stock sounding system for $600 since I already have a 4 channel amp laying around and have a 12" polk sub in it right now.

I found some 2 ohm 7" speakers on Amazon and all of the reviews are 1st gen tundra and sequoia owners so I'm going to give those a shot first.

 

It was a local shop that was close to the job I was working at. They have a guy there that knows toyota axles. If the dude up front hadn't been a douche I woulda taken him my rear axles.

I replaced mine simply for the fact that the spindle is off and the bearing is out and it's $75 for hubs off RA. Plus I'm betting mine had a few mines on them.

 

I ran two tanks of gas with some ATP added to the oil to see if I could fix my valve cover leak. Decided to go ahead and tighten the valve cover bolts down today, some of them were not even finger tight! Jacked the truck up and sprayed degreaser foam all over it, as well as all around the engine compartment. Drove to my DIY carwash with a jack, and the mofo was coned off for maintenance. Went to another one I knew of, and fed about 10 minutes worth quarters in it. Go to start spraying it off, and this cheap ass place does not run hot water. Freezing cold. Sprayed it down, but it did a poor job for obvious reasons. Hopefully it's clean enough to see if I fixed it.

 

You get those parts in the dishwasher asap.

 

Ultimately that's probably the best idea. But I'll go on ---

I think you may have a false idea of how much there'll be to balance out. Even if halving the impedance doubled the power output, it doesn't double the volume output. It doesn't even increase the volume 25% at peak levels and same is true with the inverse. And the effects you'd actually hear would typically be at the high end of the power output range, not necessarily at normally listening range. You'd have a bigger impact just by selecting a speaker based on sensitivity, and I don't even see you gauging any comparison on that when it's potentially a bigger factor.

But if you're that hung up on speaker impedance, you can technically change the impedance of your speaker.

You may find the OEM JBL amp also has dipswitches on its chassis, or on the mainboard to adjust things as well.

I'm almost through my 2nd tank after ATP add, still have a little leak, far less significant than before, but I'm fairly certain my VC gaskets are probably hard as a rock. I think your major problem was probably the fasteners. Mine definitely isn't, so I'll be ordering new gaskets (2 VC, 8 plug tube, 18 bolts and their gaskt-washers, hopefully that's it) while Serra has a 20% off deal.

 

[QUOTE="shifty`, post: 2642265, member: 48239"
I'm almost through my 2nd tank after ATP add, still have a little leak, far less significant than before, but I'm fairly certain my VC gaskets are probably hard as a rock. I think your major problem was probably the fasteners. Mine definitely isn't, so I'll be ordering new gaskets (2 VC, 8 plug tube, 18 bolts and their gaskt-washers, hopefully that's it) while Serra has a 20% off deal.[/QUOTE]

I hope you are right! I'm a little worried because when I was under it working on the rack there was all kinds of fresh oil coming from up top. Way worse than I originally thought. Also, when I was tightening the valve cover bolts I noticed some hanging rubber gasket bugers on the back of the passenger side VC. I really don't want to change them out!

 

I mean ... I don't want to either, but after 90 minutes or so of digging thru parts catalogs, my order is in with Serra Toyota of Decatur to cash in on that discount with no tax and free shipping ... yet I'm still out $229.

Probably stupid for ordering all 4 aprons when I only need 2, even stupider for ordering all new set of fresh fasteners for the aprons, and Knowing my luck, they'll have a big sale next week, but ... Meh.

The bolt (for cylinder head cover, 2nd to last) comes with the washers you'll need to replace if you do yours, but Toyota's Parts system will say 'doesn't fit' for some reason. You either pay $1.09 for this bolt and gasket-washer combo, or spend $2/washer-gasket, then another $1.50ea for a compatible bolt. It's cheaper to buy the combo and re-use your OEM bolts if you really want.

Your truck is younger than mine, so you may want to consult with @FirstGenVol or @Tundra2 for parts numbers. For my '06 this was my parts list for valve cover overhaul (including all 8 spark tube gaskets):

Passenger VC gasket (1): 112130f010
Driver VC gasket (1): 112140f010
Spark plug tube gasket (8): 1119350010
Valve Cover Bolt with Grommet (18): 9008010330
FIPG 3 sealant (1): 0029500103​

And if anyone hits this reply looking for splash aprons for passenger and front, let me save you the 45 minutes it took me to find these SOB's in the freaking parts diagram.

Splash guard "Apron" passenger front/forward ("R"): 537360c020 (0c010 for '00-'03)
Splash guard "Apron" passenger front/rearward ("RR"): 537380c010
Splash guard "Apron" passenger front/forward ("L"): 537370c020 (0c010 for '00-'03)
Splash guard "Apron" passenger front/rearward ("LL"): 537390c010
Splash guard "Apron" fasteners: 9046710186
Fasteners required: R=5, RR=4, L=8, LL=4 (total=21)​

 

I haven't sourced any parts like that for the engine on crackie yet so part numbers ain't my thang yet. One day.

 

I have a question, wondering if I got all the VC bolts? Is there one hiding on the backside that can't be seen? I ask because there is one on each side in the front. Then they go all the way across the top and bottom to the back. But I felt around and tried looking with a flashlight and could not see any behind it on the firewall end.

 

Must not be one in the back, I see you have 18 of them. So 4 across the top and bottom on each side plus one on the front on each side.

 

I noticed the other day one of my splash guards were missing. Need to check again and see which one it was. You gonna go ahead and replace all 4 of yours with new since 1 is missing?

 

Super thick and won’t flap away like oem
https://arksplashguards.com/products/tundra-sequoia

 

Do you know if that's a set of 4 or 2?

 

That has to be 2 front only. 1 left 1 right.

But one replaces the 2 oem per side.

 

1 piece and a biscuit!

 

Got myself an Odyssey Extreme to replace my 10 year old Optima. Only to find out that my starter has also decided that it didnt like this low voltage BS and no longer engages, just spins real good on the fresh battery.

Bright side is may as well do some Dirty Deeds injectors while I got it apart eh?

 

An older crackhead can take a mid-sized adjustable wrench, and bend 1/8'' steel pretty easy. Or you could just give me a six inch adjustable, and I could probably do the same thing. @jpink and @FirstGenVol found out about beans n cornbread torque.

I miss the old crackheads that could start cars, and run cable with the same screw driver for $20. Now they just whine for money. Fuck outta here

The bold gives me pause. I know someday I'll have to get the V6 inspected for the frame which means to ensure a successful visit I'd need to swap old arms and ball joints in. Pretty sure they won't fuss over the Napa lower arms since they aren't obviously off-brand. Probably have to save the arms off crackie...

I realize this is about front hubs, but my original bearings were fine according to Bruce at 316k miles on the rear end when I had him do the backing plates. Mine were rusted the fuggggg out around the rolled edge. Went ahead, and ordered OEM bearings, and the rest of the goodies from @Roman. I miss that guy. Helped me find tons of parts. None of which I can access anymore on their website so the part numbers from our PMs are lost unless I trace back my order history with date stamps in my emails, and correspond that with messages in the PMs. Bummer.

Wish Coo sprangs would come back, but I figure it was overwhelming their system.

 

They can't deny your frame inspection or refuse to do the work because of the arms you have on. You're good. Mine are uniball and the dealer I checked with didn't wanna touch them.

 

No, you can't. I can bend 1/4" steel the same way all day log, but in a tight radius on a small piece. The adjustable wrench in these will bend smiles into it. Get enough and maybe you get an overall bend. But the wrench wont fit in the first place.