What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Someon explain this to me. I know nothing about these types of equipment. Is a 20 ton press the amount of force it takes? Why? Is it recommended to do both at the same time?

 

Can't answer the latter two questions, but 20 tons is the amount of force the press exerts within a focused area. Pressing like this is done on items which you ultimately don't want to separate under the amount of force that part will experience in extreme daily-use conditions.

 

Adapter plates aren't cheap as well. The price is adding up with the 20 ton press. What kind of shop did it for you at $250?

 

If the duty cycle has passed, and 265k miles is surely beyond any parts duty cycle, I replace both sides when a part fails. The same time and conditions that have my drivers side bearing howling apply to my passenger side, so both sides it is. Especially if it’s a big production, best to suffer all at once.

 

@empty_lord stated it was 11-13 tons just to pop the original bearings out. Usually if you replace one, the other side is probably going to go within a year or two since they're at the same mileage. That's the logic why you would replace both. Some people people skimp and do them individually especially if the price is high to replace them.

 

Heat it and beat it.

J/k. But i wonder why toyota didnt make the spindles accept bolt-in bearing assemblies. The Titans wheel bearings took all of 20 minutes. And half of that was caliper removal. Knuckle stayed on the truck.

 

I'm actually surprised someone doesn't make aftermarket spindles with an easier-to-install wheel bearing.

 

My neighbor said the newer 4runner style front bearings are way easier to change, almost a bolt on cassette is what he made it sound like.
Just watched the A1 video, that sue!
Looks like a involved process with lots of adapters needed, I didn’t see or hear her say how far the spindle gets pressed back into the hub on reassembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_Yy9-VLahbA

 

Eh. I'm not that surprised. Look how long the OG bearings seem to last. Can't imagine there would be much demand for that.

 

If I'm doing this repair, there is no way in hell I'm sticking an A1 Auto bearing back in there. I love their videos but always laugh at the idea that I'm going to use their in house parts. I'll fork out the cash for an OEM bearing and know it will likely last another 200,000 miles.

 

Exactly. I had never even heard of them as a brand until I watched videos of theirs.

 

My $150 coil pack set of 6 are still going strong after 3 years. Maybe I got lucky? But then again I haven't put a lot of mileage on my truck due to covid.

 

If their images are accurate they're just rebranded National bearings.

I wouldn't hesitate to use non OEM as long as they're SKF, Timken, or FAG. They make quality bearings and I've never had one fail prematurely.

 

Coil packs are a hell of a lot easier to swap out than wheel bearings. I'm not saying their parts are bad, just that I wouldn't risk it for something as complicated as our front bearings are. Buy once, cry once.

 

The website used to be amusing also, it was something like www.faginabearing.com

EDIT: I was close. Found the pic I took.

 

Azone had the peak red coolant. But i cant believe they nor napa didint have the spring rad hose clamps.

 

Holy rust on that thing.

 

So I should be replacing all 4 hubs? Or maybe 160 miles might still have some life left? When is the cutoff for aggressive maint on lightly used parts?

 

Right! The dust shield was holding on by a prayer

 

Looks like the Yokohama mt’s in 315/70 are the winner. Another plus is they’re a tad bit cheaper than st maxx’s in a 285/75 and actually in stock currently. I’ll have to do some major trimming and hammering before T2S!

 

Anyone use Accel or MSD Coils on thier rigs? I'm trying to justify $380 for a service of 8. Then again my Denso OEs are working perfectly fine.

 

If they're anything like the AT tire they should last a good amount of miles as well. Part of what made me like Yokos was getting 70k out of a used set of their all terrains.

 

That’s a another good point I’ve read. These should last me 5-6 years and the tread depth is the deepest I’ve seen, 21/32”!

 

@KingSequioa007 - stick to Denso from Rock Auto

 

The blocks are pretty massive. For me its a downside because I bought my all terrains right before they released this newer mud tire, so I'll have to wait a while to buy the muds.

Or start doing a lot of burn outs... maybe

 

Just curious, since you already ran the Cooper MAXX, what made you rule out the STT PRO? How many miles did you get out of the MAXX?

 

Anyone run bias ply? Offroad? Tires.

 

That's what I currently have.

 

Joking aside. If I had to travel cross country to this Tundras in Sedona gone wild thing and had a 20-ton press available with adapter plates, I'd consider it at 200k+ miles.

 

So, 200k should be my mark? And would you say 160 is premature? Or reasonable given 20 years? I'm game for buying new hubs I think, but Jason is going to get tired of me. Then again, maybe I can do hubs when I do gears since I already have axles?