Another lift thread

Wanted to start off by saying how helpful this site has become in answering many questions I’ve had in regards to my truck. After a lot of research I’ve come to the conclusion of how I want to lift my truck but any input and corrections of missing pieces would greatly be appreciated.

I want to go beyond the basic 3/1 lift that more so just levels your truck. I am looking at going 4/1 with a small reverse rake look. The plan is to fit 35s as well. I have a 2016 tundra 4x4 double cab with 28k miles.

I’m pretty set on going fox because of the reputation and price and I’ve heard nothing but good customer reviews.

I’ve read I’d need a differential drop when going 4” or more.

Correct me if I’m wrong but in order to achieve this look would I just need larger Coilovers, ucas, differential drop kit, and larger shocks in the rear? Please let me know if I’m missing anything as well as any recommendations on fox products as well as UCAs.

thanks guys!

 

Depending on COs you can crank the preload to desired height. Definitely, need new UCAs and at 4” the diff drop will help prevent premature wearing of your CVs. If you only lift 1” in the rear, you can find some shocks that fit stock height to about 1.5” lift. You don’t need bigger shocks in the rear.

I run Kings 2.5s non adjustable up front, with Total Chaos poly UCAs. Love the setup. I also have gusseted spindles. BEEF!

 

lol

 

Haha I’ve come to realize there aren’t many fans of the Cali lean on this site!! After further pondering I think I will be going with the 3/1 lift.
Are kings worth the extra coin over fox? Any UCA recommendations?

 

I ran Icon smoothies with Icon tubular UCA prior to this set up. They could never align my truck properly with the Icon tubulars so I just swapped everything out brand new. Spindles, UCAs, CO’s. Also removed the front sway bar to get full travel capabilities.

I don’t have any experience with Fox. I couldn’t say if it is worth it. The extra $200-$300 for the Kings vs Icons, meh….I just had a bad customer service experience with Icon so that swayed my decision to get away from them all together.

For UCA’s - Total Chaos seem to be some of the best out there. They helped get my truck aligned into spec. I love the look too.

 

How difficult was it to swap out your spindles? I have a gusseted set and will be doing the install in a few weeks.

 

If you dont want to be fixing things later just go 3" or buy a 4.5" bracket lift kit.

Swapping a factory spindle shouldnt be complicated at all. You do need a big socket for the axle nut. My advance auto had it on the shelf.

 

It seems pretty straight forward, but I’ve never done it so wondering if there are any pro tips I should be aware of. I just ordered the socket for the axle nut and will be renting a ball joint separator. Other than these, just the standard tools and a few jacks/stands and I should be good?

 

Lower ball joint just unbolts from the spindle. You only need to seperate the upper BJ and tie rod. Just hammer the spindle with a mini sledge. It will shock the tapered seat loose. Dont hammer the nut or the joint, hit the spindle itself. Might need a pry bar to put some tension on the upper arm or tie rod to help pop it loose while you swing at it.

here is a video:
https://youtu.be/QXMPGIjldEE

Jack, remove tire, remove hub cap, reinstall tire and lower it back down, loosen axle nut with a cheater bar, jack it back up, remove tire, remove brakes and hang caliper to side, remove wheel sensor and brackets, hammer axle shaft loose with dead blow hammer, unbolt hub, remove tie rod, remove upper ball joint, unbolt lower ball joint, then reverse order with new spindle

That about sums it up. You'll have to google torque specs. The axle nut it like 250ft lbs or something crazy. Dont hit the castle nuts on the ball joints or the axle shaft with a steel hammer. Wheel sensors are expensive dont forget to remove it before the axle shaft and wheel bearing.

Keep in mind the shock will be pushing on the lower control arm. If you remove the nuts/bolts on the ball joints without a jack under the arm it could spring back and hurt you. I suggest loosening the upper castle nut some and then use the spring tension to your advantage with the hammer trick. Then put a jack under the control arm to remove it the rest of the way after the tapered seat is loose.

Good luck its not that complicated if you have a decent socket and wrench set. Watch a video on a tundra bilstein 5100/coilover install and front wheel bearing replacement. Those would cover most of the same work to replace the spindle.

 

Yeah you dont need to press out the LBJ at all. It's easy, just make sure you have extra hands to help wire up the brakes and dont let the axles droop out of front diff.

 

Great pro tips. Thanks, guys.

 

Ended up going with the Kings 2.5 ext with adjustable. Set them at 12 threads and still rubbed so did a BMC and it’s cleared now. 35” toyo mud terrains.

 

Looks good. How much lift did you net with the kings? What’s your caster set at?

 

Thanks. Not entirely sure on how much I gained, I bought my truck with 5100s already on it set at the second to top setting. If anything I’d say about an inch. Not sure on caster, still need an alignment done

 

Any tips on alignment and caster I should know about before going into the shop? I did get camburg UCAs and read somewhere about 6 caster? Keep in mind I’m not very educated on the subject. Thanks

 

There’s my specs. Any feedback?

 

Looks fine. Those camburg UCAs have a lot of caster built into them. Something I’ve read on here is that with that much caster and lift, you may run into some binding at full droop. Lift the truck up to the point where you’re at full droop and see if you can rotate the wheels freely. I’d be interested to see the result as well since I’m getting ready to do the same lift and approximately the same caster as you.

 

Wheels did rotate freely at full droop. Thanks for the feedback. Went through americas tires for alignment and was pretty skeptical, guy told me caster was not adjustable on tundras and told him they were.. anyways it got resolved and it was adjusted.

 

Did you end up doing the install yourself? Its not a huge deal once you get into it.

 

Had a shop do the install, hard to pass up the deal they gave me. $400 for coilovers and UCAs including an alignment. I did have to go back and adjust my coilovers because they didn’t put it on the setting I requested but it was pretty easy to adjust.

 

Did they have to remove the CO’s to adjust the preload? I want to crank my Kings a little bit but have read that they wont move unless they’re off the vehicle

 

king tells you it can’t be done while on the vehicle I think for liability reasons. I did adjust mine while they were still on the vehicle. Jacked up on stands and wheel off. Wd40 the threads and let soak for a bit

 

Quick and easy huh? Hmmmm I might have to try but I don’t have the tool! Mine are new since July so my threads are clean. Did you use the tool?

 

I bought a 5/16th punch tool from harbor freight and it worked. I also bought a 5/16th long screw driver and cut the end off to help with leverage on the turns that are hard to fit your tool. I would say it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.