What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

https://youtube.com/shorts/q_b35q82Viw?feature=share

 

I'm afraid it's long gone at this point. 100A was replaced a good 2-3 years ago now? I've lost all sense of time since the lockdown so I'd need to go through my maintenance records. But it and the fasteners went away then. I'm missing a skid plate bolt, and I need to get my valve cover gaskets, fasteners and FPIG, so I'm just going to order the guard and 1.5x more fasteners than I need for it. Might as well knock it all out at once.

 

did you leave this thing in 4x4? that never happens in 2wd..

 

I've got a passenger side VC weep, no drips yet.
Need to try and snug the bolts down first, 53 inlbs iirc.

 

@daveeasa Got the fog light harness adapter installed and works as it should.

Anytime my parking lights are on I have control of my fog-lights with the fog light switch.

This gets rid of the issues with your high beams getting stuck on that you may come across either when switching to LED headlights or running an aftermarket headlight harness. This keeps you from having to run a headlight resistor and adding extra load to your electrical system for pretty much no reason. This harness will only work on early 1st gens with the fog light switch on the dash and not on the turn signal stalk.

Got the idea for this from another post by @joseph_sal showing how he had to cut his fog light switch harness to make this work which is what I was trying to avoid.

Up to daveeasa if he'd like to produce more of these for anyone that may need them.
@Tundra2 I know you run headlight resistors, this may be of interest to you.

 

The grease I already had for my mini grease gun is MasterPro multi-purpose lithium grease. Good for general automotive use it says.

 

Yay for working right the first time. You're 100% sure on it?

I have connectors in my cart (haven't checked out yet) to make more of these but also ordered green/black wire b/c it pains me greatly that I could only match 3 of the 4 wires. I also ordered red/yellow to have full legit color match. Would you mind a visual confirmation of wire color, hard for me to be sure. I understand it to be

Solid Green (parking light +)
Green w Black (parking light -)
Green w White (fog light output?)
Red w Yellow (power from high beam relay?)

NOTE: function doesn't really matter as long as I have the right colors in the right spot. I only had to lowbrow the green black where I subbed white/black since that was the only color I have with a black stripe.

This stuff matters.

 

Thanks nick! @daveeasa whip me up one of these little doo-dads and I'll send some PayPal your way. This is plug and play and requires running no extra wires?

 

Yeah, that's the idea.

I don't think I can stomach sending out any more without 100% color match on the wires. You OK waiting a bit? Do you get 2 or just 1?

 

I'm fine to wait. I need to get the V6 away from pop's long enough to send you a picture of the wiring anyway. Yes?

 

I've got to button up my radiator tomorrow after I get up as I'm about to go into work now. Everything is put back together but isn't too difficult to pull back apart. I can pull it apart tomorrow afternoon and verify anything you need. Just need to verify which wire colors go into each pin correct?

 

Finally replaced my front “tow” hooks with these 1” beef boys from 4 Crawler Off-road.

Now I can throw on 3/4” shackles or soft shackles with ease.

https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DRingAnchor.shtml

 

Outboard

I had it in 4wd about a week ago and it made a pop then too. Haven't been in 4hi since. I even checked to make sure cause that's what I thought.

 

I got him towed back home, where he's gonna sit for the next 2 months and think about what he did wrong.




Oh, also:

Guess whos back, back again?

 

Finally got around to replacing my radiator and stuff. Went pretty well and smooth. I bought the gates upper and lower radiator hoses. The lower fit fine but the upper had to be trimmed off both ends since it would have bent the 60degree turn too much and pinched.
I also bought an OEM T-stat but it looked rusted and used??? I dunno. Never had to replace one before. It appears to work as the lower rad hose got hot after running the truck for a bit. And I did orient the little drilled out hole at the 12o'clock position. I'll check coolant level tomorrow and see if it needs anymore.
I am confused on if I have a transmission cooler why does my transmission lines run through the radiator still?
Also, the old radiator didn't look too bad but I really didn't wanna take a chance on getting the pink milkshake so I figured I'd just swap it out....a few pictures for you hooligans.

^^^new toyota boxed t-stat

^^^old t-stat




^^^old radiator pics. Top/bottom plates looks pretty good to me. Looked worse in the truck lol.

 

The trans fluid flows through the rad to warm it up faster in cold weather. This system is also what causes the pink milkshake.
I started my rad replacement today while I had a bit of time. Gonna button it up tomorrow. Just did it as preventative so I don't have to worry about pink milkshake either.

 

Ah ok. That makes sense.

 

Some people bypass the built in cooler just to not have to worry about it. It gets pretty cold here so I like being able to run it. If you live in a warmer climate you could probably just bypass it

 

Did you guys lose enough trans fluid to worry about when pulling the lines off?

 

I haven't buttoned mine up yet. Planning on finishing tomorrow. I'd imagine it would have gone down at least a little bit but probably not much.

 

Just waiting on 3 connectors now. The 28 pin for the radio and the male and female pair of 4 pin connectors that the speaker T will be plugged into it

@daveeasa would be proud

 

I can’t do shit to it like I said in discord. Weather has it on hold and the reducers STILL haven’t shown up.

 

Nope, beyond freezing temps here in the PNW so I won’t bypass.

I used hose clamps so I lost whatever was inside the radiator tube and then a few inches on each hose…maybe 5 ounces? I’m not worried

 

I sent him to get the fenders rolled and a drain plug installed in the trans. They had it about 2 months but only did the fenders, and it only needed a slight trim. I called yesterday and told them I needed it back to DD about 2 months.

 

I picked these up from a recommendation on here a couple months ago. They are definitely beefy and I like being able to have shackles up front now, not just the hooks.

 

Thanks to this bullshit, I got to replace two wheel studs today. The second I went to pull them, I knew they'd snap. Tough counterclockwise, easy clockwise.

On the bright side, I got to clean up my driver side drum, confirm adjustment, looked good. Got the studs replaced, tire patched from inside, tire reinstalled and, as you see in the last picture, when life kicks you in the shin, it loves to give you a swift kick in the nuts after. I guess now I'll also be hunting a new center cap. Meh.

@Tundra2 the jack worked well.



New studs on, drum on, and it was clear one of the other studs (8 o'clock) was replaced at some point.



Dunzo....



But not without an OG casualty of war, with the original 2006 sticker still on it.



FML

 

Had some fun yesterday.

 

I bought these a few years ago and they're holding up well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQVYY9T

 

Wow, you might have one of the last 1GT ever made.