General Supercharger Thread

Sounds like they didn't have anyone who could actually weld, wire brush or flappy disk and any rust is good metal at least if you have them dyno it (more) and someone else do a remote tune you can get nice apples to apples data to improve the tune.

 

Since your in PA, Xero-Limit in Easton said they would dyno tune mine, I was considering that route. I ended up going with the DAP remote tune just because the local place had never tuned a tundra but was willing to try. DAP on the other hand has tuned more supercharged tundras than anyone in the business so I wanted to go the safe route. I didn’t realize until after ordering my DAP tune kit but think @ViktorG also does remote tunes. Not sure if he currently is doing them or not, but if so that’s also a good option.

 

Thanks for the info. Is your DAP a canned tune or have you sent data logs to them to custom tune?

I have contacted viktorG and will go that route once I swap pulleys and injectors.

 

It’s custom tuning, sending data logs and getting revisions back.

 

Tl;dr - I should have went to Prospeed.


now I'm just bitchin'...

see this - https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak.101543/

This is the 2nd semi-major error that Peitz Performance made on my truck. I'm exaggerating a tad.

the first being the wrong vacuum hose connector under the blower inlet. remember the P171/p174 drama?

just shitty. Mainly because I despise crawling under the truck and the pure fact that la-z-boy has yet to make a decent creeper that automatically stands you back up on your feet.

I had to take off the skid plate and tighten this shitty shit. I'll put decent clamps on in the spring. about the same time I drain and fill the trans.


truck still runs great.
rear tires are looking haggered.
It really likes this seasonal cool dense air.
...not so much the winter blend gas.


and a word of advise:
when you are putting on your Catracs traction bars....take your time pressing in the aluminum bushings. because, if you mis-align and crooked squeeze (force the damn thing) the bushing in, about 4 months later it will rattle a bit over rough ass roads. nothing critical. just a noisy reminder to be patient. The Lord works in mysterious ways.

 

here's a good run down on LT headers for S/C motors.

the dude tests all kinds of crap. this info starts around 10:30

tl;dr = if you are blown - don't worry about headers.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ioupijiOcQ&ab_channel=RichardHoldener

 

I find this interesting. On my 1st gen S/C'd Tacoma, I had all kinds of high gear/low rpm ping until I added headers. Then I was able to advance the timing a bunch.
Confession: I didn't watch the video, just killing a few minutes at work till lunch.

 

Sounds like its a nuanced point. I would be curious to hear more folks experiences with this.

He readdresses headers in the video around 22mins, "bigger headers make more power".

From what I've read here and other Tundra forums is sounds like headers can give you some HP but sacrifices low end torque in some situations. The values I've come across didn't seem worth the parts in labor but probably suitable for someone trying to build the "fastest Tundra" or someone wanting to change the tone of their engine

 

I’d love be to see more testing on this with supercharged tundras. I’ve seen Keith from DD state before there is nothing to be gained with headers on a supercharged truck based on his Dyno testing, and then Prospeed on the other hand says that there is plenty to be gained from headers. I guess it is true though that long tubes with no cats and free flowing exhaust can drop the boost pressure by 1-2psi. Making the same power on less boost is of course more desirable, but if it makes more power with less boost that’s even better.

 

you had to use the Prospeed name! I'm still not over it....

I can see the logic of headers not helping the numbers as it is only about flow. and if Holdener & Keith says it matters very little, well.

I can also see the NA group getting some HP #'s....but only at the top. and if the echo, impulse, reflection wave thing is correct.

ALSO...yes, larger headers would help if you are into mondo HP (>800hp) - which a stock 5.7 could not handle. because it's about flow.

did I just disagree with myself?

 

Did most of y'all re-gear with the Harrop? I re-geared my stock, but lifted 2013, but my gearing is stock on my current 2008. I did do the Powertrax LSD on it though. Should I consider re-gearing once the Harrop is on?

 

I'm all stock.

I'm eyeballing the powertrax tho.....gimme your thoughts on it.



Diderot is in the house.

 

I had it installed within days of getting the truck per Keith's suggestion so I didn't really get to compare without it. He also suggested I re-gear it but I chose to pass at the time being that I wasn't a big fan of the gearing on my 2013. But that was a whole different beast. Now I'm wondering if I should have on the 08'.

 

Supercharger + gearing > supercharger > gearing imo.

At least you have the powertrax, makes controlling the blower a bit easier. Launching without a LSD in 2WD is nearly impossible, with the LSD is slightly less impossible.

 

With my 34s I probably should when I get a powertrax LSD installed, but I just don’t want to spend the money. It’s doesn’t seem like a total necessity power wise since it already is obscene with stock 4.30s. I spent so much on the truck in the past year I don’t even want to dump the $500 or so on things I consider pretty necessary in my vehicles which is a remote start and window tint. Gotta pace myself lol. Not even sure what the ideal gears would be in my case, 4.88s?

 

Fuck 4.88s, get 5.29s. Save the coin and do gears when you do the powertrax since you're already paying for the same labor (well, then add on labor for the front diff too I suppose). Thing will be a fucking rocketship then.

 

Exactly ^ I have the 5.29’s and powertrax also. The truck drives so effortlessly when you have 34 or 35’s.

 

Guess I better start saving up lol. Does a regear then require getting retuned as well? I would think it mainly requires adjustments as far as shift points go, but wasn’t sure how that effects it? Speaking of tuning, making a lot of progress today with DAP. Just got a bunch of logs sent and he got me another file. I’m in the process of flashing the next file now!

 

So I did have to adjust the shift points with my VFtuner tune because it up shifts off the KPH. So with the regear my RPMs were going too high before upshifting. When I had D3’s tune, theirs shift off the (I think they said it was output shaft speed?). Anyway, Their tune shifted at the proper points without making adjustments.

 

hold on...pardon my ignorance...

If I'm all stock, would re-gearing help?

or is that just for bigger tires?

 

The lower gears help offset the power loss when you add larger tires. Also helps with gear hunting, which idk if you notice that as much with the S/C. So if you kept the stock size tire and went to 4.88, I would imagine you’d gain some HP. But you would lose some top speed. Correct me if that’s not exact.

 

Not entirely accurate, the power you're making (horsepower) isn't changing. Torque and rpm are being swapped out, but since horsepower is a calculation of torque and rpm, it remains unchanged (the engine produces the same power ultimately, and besides efficiency loss that's not changed through the drivetrain). Likewise larger tires do take more power to spin up due to a higher inertia (more mass further out), but you also have a loss in actual force put to the ground due to the larger diameter (lever arm). If the torque to your hub is constant, a larger tire is effectively a lower (numerically) gearing so you have less mechanical advantage and this is where regearing makes up and effectively counters that. You are putting more torque to the hub, and then the tire has a larger lever arm so they cancel out (depending on the gearing/tire size of course).

To @nobodyintexas question, "help" is a bit relative. Again, higher (numerical) gearing means more torque to your hub and more force to the ground pushing you forward--ie you would accelerate faster. But everything is a trade off, meaning now you have to spin a faster rpm. This is why some people argue 5.29s is too much gearing because even with a 35 you have to spin a higher rpm to maintain the same speed. HOWEVER, your engine isn't working as hard because you have more torque on demand. In my opinion, it's a marginal difference in rpm and you also have the added benefit of being higher in the powerband so not only do you have more torque able to be applied to the hub but you also have more horsepower/torque from the engine that is immediately on tap. Kind of like being in 5th gear constantly, you give it gas and it accelerates where as 6th cannot generate enough horsepower at the lower rpm so needs to downshift.

So there are certainly advantages to regearing if you're stock, it's just arguably less pronounced than having big tires. You've never experienced power/torque loss, so you're not needing to make up for anything so you would actually be gaining acceleration performance instead of just cancelling out (and maybe a little gain) like someone with bigger tires experiences. In your case, I agree with @HonorNotInner where 4.88s might be the way to go, since that's similar to 35s with 5.29s. With your smaller tires and 5.29s you might be at 3000rpm at 80mph where as we're at 2650rpm at 80mph. Not that 3k will kill you, but that is getting up there, and if you want to go over 80mph you're now getting pretty high into the rpm range--4.88s would put you at a good medium range. But if you're not towing or upgrading tires, I honestly wouldn't worry about it unless you really want some brutal acceleration (not Plaid brutal though ). But your money, maybe you can hit a sub-4s 0-60 with small tires and 5.29s and stage 2!

 

That reply left me with zero QUESTIONS. I am now educated. Appreciate you.

I am committed to get the Powertrax LSD....the valve body shift thing will be next.



heat pump on Tesla took a shit...@ 900miles....so, no climate control.
Taking it in today.
is there anything worse that your wife's car not having A/C? the answer is no.

 

Not related to the supercharger stuff at all, but thought it might be interesting.
https://youtu.be/ml5meauKOEA

 

great...now I'm sadder. thx.

good news is...it's a 3 yr lease.

I wonder if that guy ever had his 911 serviced? I was was shopping a Turbo S. gaaaahhhhh. monster car. service $ are murder.

However....the Tundra is rocking on.....it costs me $30 to change the oil.

 

Kinda sad that so many things are allowed to slide this day and age due to the current situation. Hopefully your service request will be resolved quickly.

 

I have zero confidence.

I just want a loaner.

if no loaner the wife drives the Tundra , I'll have to drive the Company F250 6.2L gasser. it rides like a square wheeled chuck wagon.

 

reading this build gives me solace that I'm not about to break my shit.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/

those numbers are mondo. and stock internals?

see...I need that 4.5 inlet thing & a re-tune....my shit needs 500whp.

 

Usually i dont like thees kind of videos...if i wanted to hear complaining, i'd listen to my wife.

But that last part about getting charged for FSD on a car that wasnt delivered is just nuts. And that fact that they do not have anything in place to refund that is crazy, that is just bad business. All the other complaining is just noise to me, everyone is short on parts....its not just tesla.

Thats it. Back to making me jealous of your guys superchargers.

 

I agree with you on the complaining part. Uncle Rich and Louis Rossmann are near and dear to my heart because they stand for the DIY folk and right to repair in the automotive and IT worlds.