What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

So these bad boys arrived today . I contacted Pulstar to see if any testing had been done on the 4.7 V8 engines. None had been done before, so I volunteered to do testing on them. Real world MPG, driving characteristics and Dyno results. I'll post results soon.

 

Looping back on this

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 stuff from ATP.

About a week ago, I wiped dry all the clearly-wet leaky spots around my valve cover. I immediately drove the 3mi trip to work, then idled in the parking lot for 30mins stuck on a call. After, I turned off, then popped the hood to see what leaked. It was actually quite a bit collected around the metal flange of the block, dip stick support was saturated, lots of drip marks on the exhaust.

I ended up putting this AT-205 stuff in around 5pm yesterday, dried the pooled oil up again, then went on an hour long drive, good mix of in-town and interstate. Got home, popped the hood, inspected. About 1/3 of the amount of pooled oil I saw after my 30 minute drive+idle a few days prior.

Today, dropped kids off at school, went to work, after work to the dealership south of town to get some parts, then back home - about 1 hour of driving total, roughly 40-45 miles. Pop the hood when I got home. Leaking almost stopped totally. I'd say 1/10th the amount of oil I saw after my 30 minute drive+idle.

It would appear this stuff is actually working. I deep-cleaned any residual oil today and hope to get under the truck to remove the skid plate and wipe the excess oil off this weekend so I can really keep tabs on whether anything new leaks. Weird it all started leaking at once, after years of nothing leaking.

Anyway ... color me surprised. Truck runs no different. No obvious sign of anything weird. Fingers crossed.

 

Oh, and as far as what I got done today, picked up a lot of odds and ends at the dealership.

PCV valve.
Replacement oil cap and gasket. (my OEM from factory has writing rubbed off, yes I'm vain like that)
Replacement clips and their receivers for the cowl cover.
Replacement nuts, same ones that hold the alternator harness bracket to the alternator.

 

You and I could have a labeled, organized, spare parts organizer full of these things. That'd be my definition of utopia.

 

On the subject of gauges, if I had fab skills, I could see some legit fun in trying to make them even more modern looking. A small screen in the middle like my Tacoma has would be the ideal spot for the scangauge level detail, then tach and speedo as analog plus digital equivalents in the middle (helpful for cruise) and fuel/battery/oil, all better as digital numbers, could save some space without those analog gauges.

Sure could be fun to be retired and tinker with stuff like this.

 

I had them powder coated while I had everything apart for the cam seals and timing belt replacemwnt

 

Why do you prefer using bolts? Rusty studs?

 

Dope avatar Luis!

 

Thanks, thats pretty much my dogs attitude lately

 

See what I did there?

 

Bolts don’t have exposed threads to rot and get nuts stuck on

 

Rust you say? Never seen it.

 

Yeah but thats just cheating bro. That's as bad as asking for directions.

 

Nice, good price? Local company or you shipped them out somewhere?

 

$150 to do it locally if I remember right

 

How are those headers comin? Or is that in a build thread?

 

Yes if you scroll thru the menu, it will display the firmware version. They’ve been sold for quite a while with version 4.0. The guy I bought mine from said he sent it in once for the update, and I’m currently running v4.22. I believe the latest is v4.56, or close to it. Still clueless what changes with an update

 

Nice, I wish I could find someone in Cali to do it for that price lol.

 

I keep working late so I’m getting like 1 hrs worth of work done a night. I’m at work right now. Lol. As of now I’m prepped for the passenger side install. But I ran the new power steering lines last night. Tonight I should have the passenger side buttoned up.

 

Changed out my fan clutch today. Small amount of side to side play but when you shut the engine off the fan would spin for quite a while so new one in. While that was out changed the serpentine belt and idler and tension pulleys. Both were noisy. Still have a whining noise which I think is the power steering pump. Anyone have any magic potions to quiet one down?

 

Now I'm worried about these Moog lower ball joints I installed years ago.

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/...-toyota-tundra-and-sequoia-models-179757.html

 

I am going to use the old turkey baster tomorrow and try and swap in some synthetic tranny fluid.

 

Have you ever swapped the fluid before? That's the only thing I can think of that might help. Might be better to do a flush instead of just the turkey baster.

 

Got 90 minutes to work on the truck today, not enough to tackle laternator and drive belt, but progress is progress.

Re-secured the alternator harness bracket to the alternator. "Wasn't me", but I tracked down the right bolt and replaced it.



New oil cap installed. FYI y'all, it's not necessary to order the gasket separately, so now I have a spare oil cap gasket I've got no clue what I'll do with.



PCV replaced; when shaking the old one, you could feel the check inside was sticking. It wasn't stuck yet, but was definitely pretty chunky in there. Not sure if/when it was replaced before.



Wiped in any excess oil around the frame and block etc. so it could penetrate into the metal, and I can better track leaks moving forward - and, for what it's worth, no cam seal leak. Small passenger valve cover leak is completely gone. Driver side almost gone, and now there's zero leaking onto (and down) the dip stick brace and tube after

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 treatment and 2.5hrs of driving now.

While skid plate was off, I went ahead and gave it its first bath ever, and I'll hit it w/some PB Blaster before reinstall.

 

If it makes any positive changes tomorrow I’ll go down that road as I have some orings that are weeping at the rack that need attention

 

Energy suspension steering rack bushings. Feels good man.

Ordering drive shaft center support bearing and u-joints.

 

ATP

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 update: https://www.tundras.com/threads/hey...-cover-valve-cover.100798/page-2#post-2600547

 

@empty_lord
Did you do that one horizontal line that runs across the rack that isn't a part of the p/s lines kit?

After my p.s. line rotted out & dumped on my buddy's freshly seal coated driveway, I had the shop install the p.s. lines kit. 1 month later that 1 line that wasn't included blew out. I was so pissed they didn't bother to mention there was another line just as rotted not included. Like I want to drop the truck off 2x instead of 1x.

 

The one on the rack itself? That one comes with the new rack. And my racks barely 2 years old

 

I have had two things done by a North County Powder Coat in San Marcos which I’m pretty satisfied with. Neither was auto but I swear I saw rims there last time I picked up. They were fair on pricing too, lots of colors, friendly staff.