What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes for the price, they or Okay. They were rubbing at first in the coils but I'm at max lift height for those UCAs. I would prefer JBA or SPC but I can't justify that price.

 

I read that thread a bit but IDKWTF that guy did to his truck to do that.
I can tell you my truck hasn't done that.

I have the non-uniball setup. Indiana is salt-country for 1/4 of the year and I didn't want to be on the hook for extra maintenance on the truck. I want it easy to live with.

 

No kidding

 

Have to pay $100 for shipping in order to get the replacement per MM warranty agreement. They dropped it down to $80 for me since they’re back ordered.

The MM performed awesome, and it was great that it was bolt in. I think everything deserves a second chance, I just don’t want to swap the radiator twice, or pay for 2 coolant replacements.

the CVJ boot didn’t tear, but it did pop off and spit it’s grease everywhere. I caught it pretty quick and was able to hose clamp it. It’s been good since then.


I’m getting really sick of replacing parts that I’ve already replaced so I don’t have to replace them and then need to replace the replacement anyways.

 

Is that return (core) shipping or shipping (replacement) to you?

 

Shipping to me. They don’t take the core back.

 

I thinks those rads are $450? Whether you use it or sell it, seems like a bigger loss not to get a replacement and eat the $80. Maybe sell it if this seems like it will be an ongoing issue.

 

yep, I agree. Now I just need to decide if it’s worth the extra work to swap my stock radiator back, or just park it for the next 2 months.

 

I vote wash off the salt and park it.
Let the Ram rot in salty hell.

 

Man, that sucks. I really wanted to go with an aluminum radiator from Champion or MM and read a few of these early failures. I put in a new Denso back in Sept instead, but would love a bulletproof option. If you do go the replacement route, here's to hoping it was just a fluke. Keep us posted!

 

I think I'll be doing inner and outer tie rods.
Other than the rods themselves, and boot ties, do I need seals or anything?

 

I have the part numbers somewhere if you want, OEM?

Somewhere in this list, not sure which items are unrelated as I'd have to comb through them.

 

I'd go new denso and then sell the MM

 

Nope. Just the right tools for the inner tie rods. I used a pipe wrench myself to grab the ball end and twist it off. Just make sure you secure the inner rod so you don't twist that and ruin the internal seals in the process. Need a skinny wrench to grab rhe flat spot on it. You'll understand when you pull off the dust boot.

 

I'm looking at Serra Toyota right now, I don't seem have a problem with part numbers, they don't have a bunch of variations and I'm using my Vin @Thank you @daveeasa! But what parts? Outer and inner tie rods, anything else? Or maybe I need part numbers if that tells me what to get...

Edit: all good Dave

 

Thanks @Jack McCarthy !

 

Oh and I think they corrected me to two of the clamps and I think later on Dan told me I also need the boots. I know I got new boots. I can try to find them part numbers too.

From memory it was inner and outer on both sides, boots x2, clamps x2

 

I put new boots on a while back so good there. So clamps and rods. I think I'll order near you, 1% difference San Diego vs Serra Decatur

 

My order was one of the 3 mcgeorge sites but sweet if you got a local setup. Come visit and show me how to fix my truck?

 

Still 120 miles for me to San Diego, but maybe next time I come down! Might visit UCSD or USD if the kid gets in. Or just take him surfing.

 

Problem with that is, the ram is a really nice NM truck with no lick of rust, even on the rockers.

meanwhile, the tundra has Swiss cheese for rockers.

 

This is happening.

I never use stop leak products but given my current situation with a light VC leak along with a potential cam seal leak, and this stuff makes a bold claim it won't over-swell gaskets plus is safe to be used at any point between oil changes, I'm giving it a go.

While it's totally possible the sealant for my VC is the issue vs. the gasket itself, and the cam seal may actually be showing old oil and was repaired by a previous owner ... I'll give this a try and report back in my dedicated leak thread if successful. I dug pretty deep on this stuff and found numerous gearheads swearing by it for engine use.

Supposedly works pretty quick. Looks like 1 bottle does 6L, so I'm just using one bottle in the truck and glossing over the extra half liter. Only have time to idle for 10min right now, but have plenty of driving tomorrow heading to the dealership south of town to pickup my new PCV and misc other cowl- and alternator-related parts.

 

Good luck @shifty` . In other additive news, I put some Seafoam in the crankcase and gas tank. Oil doesn't seem any dirtier, but the engine is in good shape already. Going to shoot some aerosol Seafoam in the air intake and play with some syn Lucas Oil this Weekend.

 

I wonder if that would help the v slow leak I have in my PS rack...

 

I used Trico tri seal for my rear main seal leak. Worked great for a couple hundred miles then it re started again. I'm dreading this seal replacement but I have the seal already and a full shop at my disposal to perform job myself.

 

Brand new fluid looks great! And my new lines feel good. No leaks so far.

 

It will, have used it on 2 yota racks and it fixed them

 

It works pretty well. Stopped a leak in my old Jeep until the new steering pump showed up, and I dumped about a quarter bottle in the Tundra rear axle last summer and it still is leak free from the wheel seal.

It's one of the 'snake oil' products that seems to actually work as advertised. At least for small leaks anyway.

 

Some goodies for working on my truck came in today at Home Depot.

 

Nice!