What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Wrapped up the long box install tonight by flashlight, and got a chance to see the Diode Dynamics lights for the first time at night.

 

What a great truck!

 

I always thought that decal would make a good beside decal also….the nerd in me coming to the surface.

 

I got my Gator floor liners today so I put them in the truck a few minutes ago. Started the truck and it was bouncing off the rev limiter. I was like WTF? I quickly realized that I installed the driver side mat over the gas pedal so it was pinned to the floor when I started the truck. Lol

So far, I really like the fit of the front liners but I'm not really happy with the back liner. It is kind of peeled up by the doors. I'm not impressed. I'm hoping they will kind of settle down after a day or two and if it warms up a bit.

 

Fed the beast

 

Did the leather wrap on the steering wheel with a loncky kit off Amazon. This took more patience than I expected, almost more than I had but it came out ok. Also, finally worked up the courage to drill the holes to mount the switches for the heated seats.

 

yes sir! 3-4 hits and popped right of, thank you!

 

Drivers side Done!

now for a test drive and alignment in the morning.

 

This is the Way. Was going to put this one on the other side but it got messed up. The nice place I got the from is shipping me a replacement.

 

wheel came out great. Spoiled rear seat passengers!

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it!…yea I’ll absolutely be coating every vehicle we own from here on out, worth it!

Thanks for checking it out!…beautiful dog ya have, and yea that’s my sidekick, he’s with me just about everywhere I go!

 

Wow, this thread gets a lot of posts! As stated in some of the previous responses, it's worth it IF that includes paint correction - but major paint correction would probably be a lot more expensive. And no coating I know of is done when it is applied. There are things to do to maintain it, depending on the specific product. The maintenance is not complicated or hard, but it needs to be done. And the definition of "lifetime" can vary. $1500 every 10 years is worth it to me for the added protection. I paid about that much, but it included ceramic coating of all the windows as well, AND a good hydrophobic coating on my windshield. I really don't need my wipers very often at all. And mine was done right after I got the truck new, so no paint correction was needed.

Good points, but as I mentioned before, it's worth it to me to reapply every 10 years.

 

Anyone get there’s done 10 years ago that can give us an update?

 

Ordered my loncky kit just a few days ago, if it ends up looking anything like yours when it’s finished, I’ll be very happy!

 

Can you give us more info on the heated seats? Where did you tap into power? What heaters did you use for the rear seats?

 

A little on the mud flap, where it sticks out. Will be trimming it today

 

Alcans and Timbrens arrive today.

 

Finally lost the new car smell so time to hang an air freshener

 

Not to quote myself but the rear liner has settled well. I think it was just a bit deformed from being folded up in the box and the fact that it has been pretty cold. The rear liner formed much better to the contours of the vehicle after sitting for several hours and having the truck cabin warmed up. Just posting in case anyone else is thinking of getting these Gator Liners this winter, the rear in particular does take time to settle into place. I had Weathertech liners in my last car and I liked them but it was honestly almost impossible to get them clean with the texture. That's why I decided to get these Gator liners.

 

Put the bunny back in the box...

 

I used Rostra heated seat kits 250-1870 off Amazon. 4 total kits. They also make a kit that is compatible with toyota blanks for the buttons but I didn't see that when I bought mine over the summer and I'm unsure which, if any, of the blanks in the tundra it would fit. I installed the elements when I put the katskins in over the summer but had not completed the wiring.

I used two "add a fuse" type splices and pulled power from the fuse box in the engine bay. I bought a kit off Amazon that came with 3 add a fuse connectors and a bunch of spare fuses. I tired to grab power from two things I thought wouldn't have power unless the ignition was on that also had 20 amp fuses. One being the windshield washer sprayer motor and the other being the rear defrost, I was wrong one of these still has power and I need to find another place to plug it in so they dont get accidentally left on. I will update when I move the add a fuse tonight. Each seat has an inline 10amp fuse on the wiring harness and I spliced each pair of seats together to go to the add a fuse.
I used 14ga red marine (tinned) stranded wire to come off the add a fuses and go through the firewall right at the large wire gromet behind the fuse box on the firewall. I connected my splices with marine/waterproof heat shrink splices and I also had some red heat shrink laying around that I went over the connections with. Once inside the cab I ran the two 14ga wires under the dash to the center console. If you have never opened up your center console, the whole top of the center console comes off starting just under the front of the armrest all the way past the most forward cupholder. The bolt just in front of the shifter under the console is what I used for my negative connection for the two front seats. I then popped the rear panel off the center console, which pops off easy in the crew max pulling up and toward the back seat at about a 45 degree angle. Without removing anything else I was able to pull the carpet up just enough to pull the other 14ga wire back to the middle section under my esp storage bins and pull the wires forward for the two switches. The center bin has some room underneath so that is where I left most of the wire bundled up. For the rear ground I ended up scraping some paint off under the esp bins and running a self tapping screw right into the body. I got under the truck and sprayed the bottom of the self tapping screw with some Fluid Film until I can get it on a lift and seal it better somehow.

 

IF I had to do it again, I would unhook the battery - Wait 15-30 minutes, pop the little side covers off the steering wheel and undo the airbag with the torx screws and remove the plastics. Mine came out fine but it would have taken substantially less time to take those pieces off and properly tape the inside edges of the leather behind where the plastics go back on. My garage is not big enough/long enough to open the hood, I would have had to move it outside. The leather is very thin where it tucks in and I could see how someone would easily tear it. I would probably still do it with the steering wheel in the truck but I do have heat in my tiny garage. Make sure to have good light from the back of the wheel and front of the wheel.

 

Well….took the truck in for the alignment this morning and the dam cam bolt tabs were broken - 2 add a couple hundred bucks to cost And of course they didn’t have them in stock.

 

Replaced the old halogen lights with pro leds and an ihacker harness. While I was at it I replaced the grill and hood bulge. A little more chrome to get rid of but big progress last night.

Before

After

 

Looks great and big difference! where did you get your grille?

 

Thanks! I got the grill here:
https://www.truck-accessories-guy.com/products/toyota-tundra-2014-current-trd-pro-grille

The hood bulge was from Amazon.

 

Not a bad deal. How was the fitment of the Amazon bulge and the paint match?

 

Hood bulge was close to stock fitment. A couple mm more gap at the ends. I was able to manipulate it a little closer by holding it down while I tightened the bolts.

Both of the blacks matched dead on. I was a little nervous when I ordered but took a shot and am happy with it. Wanted to be a little different than all the color matched ones you see running around so I went with black.

 

I am a fan of contrast and the black and white certainly adds a stormtrooper effect to your truck.