RCI Rock Sliders Install

2019 Tundra SR5 TRD 5.7l Double Cab

You will need a second person and a jack to assist holding it up. I used a floor jack and some assistance from my wife to keep the slider from falling off. Once you have the slider jacked up to the frame, it stays there.

There are some brake lines you'll need to move so it's not pinched between the frame and sliders.

I wanted to post this because I looked everywhere about how to install the last two rear bolts on the driver's side. The gas tank is in the way and couldn't fit my hand between the frame and the tank.

I know this could have been done in one day, but I ended up taking two. I started later in the day. And I had to figure out how to get the bolts in those few hard to reach places. I looked all over the Internet and tried to find something on YouTube. I received some good ideas. But nothing I felt comfortable with doing.

I installed the RCI skid plate a year ago and remembered I had to use a telescopic magnet and a mirror to find some bolts and washers I dropped between the slider and the bottom of the truck. Which worked because I was able to find them. You can't really see in that area.

So, I used those two tools to install the last two bolts on the driver's side. The bolt that goes on the top of the frame (1) and the one on the bottom facing up on the frame (2).



You're going to have to remove the factory skid plate for the gas tank if you have one. Remove the 6 bolts.



I used these three tools for this hard to reach areas. I don't remember where I got that rachet. But Home Depot has something similar that also expandable.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...Zax8OKhYkNiRMGWnyIRoCEuUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

For the top bolt, I took the washer that goes inside the frame and put it on the magnet. I did put it on the very end so that I could see where the hole was and just feed it onto the bolt.



I then just fed it onto the bolt.



Same thing with the lock nut. With this one, once I figured out the nut was on the bolt, I used the magnet to push it against the bolt, and start to hand tighten the bolt just until the bolt grabbed it. Once I knew the nut was attached, I used rachets to tighten the rest of the way.



For the bolt facing up, I had to use the mirror so I could looked down at the hole in the frame. You may need a good light to see in this area. I was able to reflect the light off the mirror.

I did the same thing for this bolt by using the magnet the same way. Offset the washer and nut on the magnet to place it on the bolt. When you get to the nut, use the magnet to apply some pressure and hand tighten the bolt until the it grabs the nut. Then tighten the rest of the way with ratchets. With the bendable ratchet, I just bent it at almost a 90 degree angle inside the frame on the nut and pulled down in the handle to apply pressure and I tighten the bolt with another ratchet.


Another thing I had to MacGyver was on the passenger side. You'll find that a bolt goes in near the brake line and is touching it. I was worried because I wasn't sure if the line would rattle against it and wear down. So, I remove the bolt and put the bolt facing out. The head of the bolt was slightly touching the brake line. So I took some loop clamps with rubber inside and added it around the brake lines that touched the bolt. Then I used a bolt and nut to lock them into place. Now the clamp touches the bolt and not the line. It doesn't seem to be pinching the brake line.





I'll keep checking this fix and see if it still works later. Just wondering if it'll move after driving around.

There is a hole in the frame on the passenger side that is inside a cross bar and you can't get your hand in. It's towards the rear. I just used the same procedure with the magnet to get the washer and nut inside and used a ratchet to tighten.

Lastly, I still had some holes in the frame and sliders and ran out of bolts, washers nuts from RCI. So I went to Lowe's to get more. I didn't find them at first but my wife found them just as I was about to go to Home Depot. These are only the items for the smaller holes. Just in case you lose any, here is a pic of the bags.


Good luck!

 

Nice write up for those who are installing these sliders! WKOR had welded on plates to rods which allowed us to slide it in there without having to use extra tools.

 

That's cool. I was going to just leave no bolts in those holes but my OCD didn't let me. LOL.

 

HAH, none of us would have wanted to let that happen. There are those who get sliders who aren't willing to drill into their frame... for the bottom side 10 grade 8s.

 

Did I get the wrong bolts for the bottom of the frame?

 

I just noticed, you may have.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Bolts/Grade-8/N-5yc1vZc26wZ1z1by9v

It'll be in the fasteners aisle where the pull out carts/bins are. Usually it's the middle-bottom cart that will contain all your Grade 8's at Home Depot.

 

Hhmm.. not sure. I saw M8 on the package. Looking what RCI sent and what I got, both bolts were labeled the same on the head. I did actually look at it yesterday before I used them because I wondered the same thing. Yeah we got these on the pull out drawers that usually hold the specialty items.

 

Grade 8's are to be the strongest bolts on the market for these types of applications and that's what I've been seeing while installing skids and sliders. I'm not sure if it'll have a detrimental effect, but I hope I didn't kick in your OCD again... LOL

 

Naw I'm good. I'm sure they're the same. And they're Grade 8s. Believe me, if I didn't see similarities, I would have went back. Thanks for looking out though. I'm keeping my set up.

 

Step 1 of mine done. Washed, por15 degreaser, scrubbed, scrubbed & scrubbed, drying in messy basement now. RCI Cat protection is slid under the table in that box.

Por15 metal prep tomorrow.
Pot15 base and spray paint the day after.

Kid and I are doing it as a father son project.

 

I like the rock sliders alot. Good luck with installation. Took me awhile to figure out how to bolt them in rear the gas tank without having to unbolt it and move it over. There's no room for your hand. had to use a magnet and a ratchet that bends to feed the washer and nut in and hold it place for the bolt. I also had to slightly move the brake line on the passenger side to fit one or two of the bolts. the line rubbed again the bolt so I took a small clamp with rubber inside and placed it on that part of the brake line to prevent wear. Follow my directions earlier in the thread and hopefully that'll help.

I just did my CAT Guard last weekend. I got the Transmission Plate without holes. So that took awhile in the 100+ heat. Definately will need someone to help you hold it up underneath. since I bought the Transmission plate and guards together, RCI told me to install the plate, line up the guards and mark the holes, then take it down to drill.

have fun. Let us know how it went!

 

@2point5seconds

I'll be using your post as a guide. I may fab up a shimmysham nut/washer holder with a wire coat hanger and hot glue. I think one of the other slider makers send that nut/washer with a similar mod (WKOR).

Por15 metal prep, rinse and now air drying. I'll pull them inside for the night and then por15 base and top coat rattle can tomorrow.

I am super excited to finally getting some sliders on. We had the stock nerf bars on originally but I quickly removed them for dog jumping in safety (gap). I didn't want steps again, even though I don't do any serious off-offroading, I wanted something sturdier and 1 piece. One & Done. They weren't cheap to ship to Canada but I can live with the added expense.

 

Nice!

Man I really like the sliders. I had some cheap running boards before. But I was at Joshua Tree off roading and didn't see a ditch. I wish I would have had the sliders then. I don't think anything was damaged but the added armor would have been nice.

The added kick out towards the back is nice to get into the bed. It also helps when I want to get into my Decked Tool Box.

I was stationed up in Alaska, so I know how much more shipping is outside the lower 48. It'll be worth it though.

Fyi. I also used a floor jack to help raise it up to start bolting it in. I just but a rubber pad on the jack so it wouldn't scratch the sliders

 

If you loosen the straps on the gas tank, you can use a pry bar to move/shift the tank over just far enough (less than an inch, really) to allow you to get your hand up in there for that last bolt on the driver's side. That maneuver might require a third hand, however, I was able to do it by myself.

 

Yeah. I was worried about moving the tank and busting something open. With my luck gas would have been everywhere. LOL

 

Forgot to mention, maybe do it when your tank is nearly empty. I stacked some 2x4s underneath the tank as I was expecting it to drop or maybe settle, and perhaps it did, but I can't remember. Anyhow, it was no big deal. That extra half-inch or so was all I needed to get my hand on up in there.

 

Humidity, wind and temp are all good.

First application of Por15 is on.

 

Thanks for posting this write up and your experience, I will need this at some point in the future. Love RCI.

 

Pretty happy with how the Por15 and Rustoleum Flat Black turned out.

 

2019 SR5 Crewmax

1 down.....1 to go.

Prepped frame yesterday, cleaned etc.

A lot of finagling, jacking, re-jacking, sourcing socket and wrench sizes.

A couple m8 bolts left, but we are going to wait until it's cooler and we aren't sweaty and frustrated

 

Drive Side done.

Still have some M8 to install and will buy some extra. We have about 8 x M8 locations or where there are opportunities for bolts/nuts but only have 4 or so left.

We have to contact RCI to figure out where the last large bolt on with the large backing washer goes, on the rear of the driver side. Where it went in on the passenger side, the driver side is too small and threaded.

Overall, we are happy with fit, finish and install. Wife is happy to have a step again too.

 

I had to buy extra bolts, washers, and nuts. They give you enough to bolt the rock sliders on, but if you want more support, you need to get more.

The back bolt near the gas tank is the hardest. Either move the tank, or use the method I did.

Not sure this is good or bad, but when I install RCI's stuff, I always have extra parts that I didn't need. LOL. I always triple check though to make sure I got everything bolted down correct. When I first installed my engine skid, I had full large washers and not the half moon ones in their directions. Then I call the next business day and they always say it should be okay.

 

Good write up w/some seriously helpful pointers

My RCIs are on order as of yesterday!!!

 

Definitely worth installing. Since I've had them on, getting mud and snow off my boots is easier. They stamp the holes up to give that traction which I like. Good luck!