What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I ordered brute force. The WK are so good, but I wanted to save money. Waiting quite a while to see how I did.

 

Their kit looks nice and good pricing for what you get. Serious off-road stuff. Mine are more for looks and to help my old ass get in the truck.

 

Ha, I still have no idea how serious I am in my little 2WD, but we will find out…
Just got off the phone with a garage raised diff guy. Interesting…

 

theres also a pic (maybe photoshop) of like quintuple shackles.

 

Something something angry pixies. something bzzzt. something something letting the smoke out.

I'm no expert on vehicle electrical systems, but I've also always disconnected the negative cable before welding on a vehicle. I shouldn't actually say always, I've forgotten sometimes. Fortunately, I've never actually fried anything. I think modern vehicles have enough safety systems and fuses put into them that the odds of frying something are reduced. Better safe than sorry though.

 

When welding on a vehicle, I ALWAYS disconnected the neg batt cable 80% of the time. Safety never takes a day off!

 

I think I’m an 80 percenter lol. I did shock myself the other day with no gloves on. That was new.

 

60% of the time, it works every time.

 

Gen 1 Sundays are the best

 

A little light mounted today.

 

I've never been shocked by a welder and I rarely wear gloves, didn't even know that was possible

 

I guess it is if you put your finger right next to the wire. First time for me…lol

 

why would you put your............. nevermind

 

Update on this, I went to toyota.com/owners and punched in vin. NOTHING anywhere about security nor keyless entry, and i have both an alarm and keyless, so obviously aftermarket. That being said, would i still be able to find a keyed fob? As long as its the correct keystock and FCC ID then I should be good to go right?

 

I would probably ask a locksmith? One familiar with auto keyless entry that is. I'm not sure myself and don't have requisite background to give solid advice. Alternatively, if the price of trying isn't too high you can try but the programming sequence/instructions are likely specific to the module so you want to know a thing or two about the receiver as I see it.

 

gotcha, so I'll do as @EvilMilkshake suggested and look up the company from the # n fob. Also, as it's aftermarket, I'm sure the receiver will be much easier to locate. Thanx guys

 

Snap a pic off the bottom of the remote, showing whatever numbers are embossed in it. If I don't recognize the remote, I can do a little digging for you when I've got a free minute.

One company (DEI) owns many of the major alarm brands. You may also want to hunt for the brain of the alarm. Usually you'll find it as a 3"x5" (ish) black box zip tied up under the steering wheel (or thereabout), although some seem to like hiding them behind the driver's kick panel. May or may not have any LEDs on it.

 

Totally farmed my ninja hidden wiring for the moment, but all working…

 

Miraculously, I escaped unharmed. It was unfortunately my fault, but no one was hurt(except for my ego). My Dog was actually in his crate in the back seat when it happened, but was also fine. Thank He was in the crate. I had spent a lot of time with him in the truck driving to different trails and what not, hence the stills at the end. Anyways, now it’s time to search for a new truck.

 

I found lots of them...

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=fcc+id+elvat5c

 

I called the 800 number. It's the helpdesk for the Voxx company of brands. My guess is it's a Prestige alarm, or possibly CodeAlarm. Definitely aftermarket.

So, answering the question I think you had elsewhere, yes, your vehicle has an aftermarket alarm. You can contact Voxx if you need replacement key fobs.

https://www.voxxelectronics.com/

 

@RUSTYNUTS called an installer buddy of mine who has an actual book to look this shit up. I was right, it's a Prestige alarm.

His book shows you'd need to buy the APS15CH or APS25CH remote fob as a replacement. Their part number is APS02BT2, I confirmed at their site they still make it. You should double-check visual ID at their site by plugging in the Prestige brand APS15 or 25 at their key fob transmitter locator page and it looks like here is the programming guide.

 

I thought this was interesting for anyone interested in knowing how well certain "trim restore" products work. I highly recommend you stop here, expand the post I'm quoting and look at the pics for when I first applied this over a year ago.

14 months ago, in the thread I quoted, out of 4 mudflaps I had that were chalky and grey as hell, I treated the rear passenger one, only one treatment. I started to do a treatment on the passenger side but stopped for testing purposes, wiped off the dab as you can clearly see in the pic below.

I haven't touched them since. I replaced my mudflaps this weekend with fresh new ones. Here's a side-by-side picture of the two rear flaps.

Really shows clearly what one treatment of Griot's Garage "Trim Restore" product is capable of doing. 1 treatment, 1 time, this is what you can expect after 14 months, with regular baths, washing, etc. If I'd have been smart, I'd have removed the chalky residue from when I compounded out the paint on the truck, but ...

Griot's trim restore product (10858) works. It won't get them as black as new, but it will get them dark again, and not require constant re-applying.

 

the box under the dash is actually Karr, I checked voxx thru your link and karr is not listed. I'm thinkin the remote is just a replacement. I'll look into Karr later, gotta get a closer look at the box for model #. I was just trying to find out if i could get a key/fob combo with my current system.

 

Oh shit, I forgot you're in SW USA, which is, like, the capitol of KARR installs. Those boxes are a damn plague, kill that shit with fire. Sometimes the brains are up under the dash. Other times someone stuffed parts of it into the driver kick panel. They've been the cause of numerous reported failures: Power windows or locks stop working. No longer able to start the car. Parasitic drain of battery within 1-2 days. And everything in between.

There's a few write-ups on how to unwire it. You may want to check for the RS3000 box to see if it was installed at the factory - I think maybe @daveeasa may have pictures of where it's located. Dealerships would install these KARR systems, even on the trucks with RS3x00 systems), because they only cost $100, they could have their technicians half-ass install them with 30 mins labor (hence why many are butcher jobs) and charged anywhere from $1,500-$2500 markup for adding functions the truck already had.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/bizarre-window-lock-issue.96881/#post-2462108

I highlighted up some threads there with more info, on a thread where the OP's power window stopped working. But there's also a YouTube video (or was) showing how to locate and unwire everything for the KARR system.

As a former installer, I'll tell you: Car alarms aren't perfect and often have components start failing 10-15 years out, which can be really annoying because they splice into door locks, power windows, horn, ignition, battery, and can impact any of those things. Most weren't built to last. If I were you, I'd consider going to a competent shop and having a newer system, something by DEI like Clifford or Avital, and have them completely remove the old KARR system for $50-100 (that's all I'd have charged).

 

My Taco had a KARR up under the dash. Easy enough to remove it. I still have it in a baggie, like a jar on a shelf only I have no room for extra shelves. On my Taco it was up inside the dash behind the driver side cubby. Removing the Tundra panel under the steering column and driver kick panel should make tracking it down straightforward (follow the T taps).

I do wonder if those of us with rs3000 had any upgrade path to 3200 if we could get a receiver. But now that I'm $100+ in on flip fobs, I'm probably keeping as-is. I would like better range, wondering if I could solder in an antenna lead or something.

I really dislike car alarms, they never once helped me out, tons of falses, quick and easy to disable by a decent thief, even with the battery backup I had. I'd prefer something more like a cat shield than a siren, nobody gives a s about a car alarm going off. I wonder if it's possible to use a horn which chirps but doesn't wail, but I doubt anyone would do that.

 

I thought most OEM keyless entry systems used the radio antenna? Most cars I've ever owned with OEM keyless entry did. I seem to recall on some 1990s Hondas, they actually routed the damn antenna lead into the head unit (using HU as a bridge), and unless you took special care, removing the factory radio killed keyless entry totally. Totally piss poor design. I think METRA included a jumper or something in their kits, but your typical neanderthal DIY'er who just cuts factory harnesses was left scratching their head afterwards. I remember fixing a couple BITD.

 

Fascinating. I can experiment with the OEM antenna vs my 17" flexi one and see if I can detect any change. I would be impressed if my '02 were so fancy. I assumed a separate internal antenna. I mean, shoot, my garage opener has awesome range from a 6" wire out the bottom, doesn't seem like it would need a full FM mast for short range RF.