What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Mines a dumpster fire by comparison

 

In other news, the T3 has a CEL. P0420

 

Man those are great pics; great pad you have there! I'm with you, I prefer the woods. This is a pic from earlier this year coming up my driveway from work.

 

I’ve still got a little play in my steering wheel after new front suspension/axles/SR bushings and alignment.

anything else I can try?

 

I do also after new coil overs and upper/lower ball joints. Mine is when going over railroad tracks or bumps. I think it’s my rack. Just another $600 for Toyota parts….

 

Have new rear shocks to install on the sequoia. 200k miles and I'm pretty sure the current ones are original, so figure it's time. But it's currently single digit temps. Think I'll wait for a warmer weekend. 20s would even be nice...

Anyone have experience on Sequoia? The upper mounts look like an awfully tight fit. Probably just go straight to cutting out old ones.

All new front suspension will come this spring.

 

@daveeasa -- here is the final light selections for the HVAC LED upgrade:

$9 AUXLIGHT Amber Yellow T5 37 74 2721 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb, 3030 Chips Super Bright 12 Volt Replacements, Interior Dome Map Dashboard Indicator Instrument Panel Gauge Cluster Lamp Lights (Pack of 10)

Amber T5 74 bulbs

$14 Alopee 10 Pack 194 Bulb Warm White Led 2700K Replacement for 168 194 W5W T10 Led Bulb Car Interior Lighting RV Led Light Bulbs DC 12V Only

Warm white 194 LED bulbs
Green silicone bulb caps -- You need the T10 for the 194 bulbs. I got some T5s too but they were so tiny. If I can find warm white T5 74 LEDs, I'd prob order the T6 covers. The trick with the covers is the LED bulb has to actually look like an LED bulb AND be the right color temp to be warm first, then green to match the instrument cluster. Now for those that don't have surface mounted LEDs on their instrument clusters like my '06, you can get away with more flexibility and go all 6k LEDs etc.

 

I have a little play in my steering as well. I think it's in the intermediate shaft. Probably worn u joints.

 

I have checked my steering shaft a few times and can’t find any play. I just think that there are a lot of wear points in a rack and they add up after awhile. The shaft seal has a drip also so it’s only a matter of time.

 

I had to climb out the passenger door last night, parking was tight.
When I am putting too many cars in the garage I go nose to the corner, jack up the back end & push. Just easier. What you did was a lot of precision.

 

Yeah, those are in a bitch of a spot. I heard someone recommend a open end wrench with an angled head?
I'm going to Kroil mine up real good, planning on a front suspension rebuild and a 2.5" lift on the Sequoia towards the end of the month. New wheels and rubber too.
Let me know how the rear shocks go, good luck!

 

2 things…
A.) seat belt
2.) almost 10% tax. Man that sucks for you guys…I thought 6% sucked cause Montana has 4%.

 

Seat belt was on in the first picture. My arm is just blocking it mostly.

That's TN tax. KY is 6%.

 

Changed my oil for the first time in 12 months. I love that I can just run a hose from the Fumoto valve to a milk jug.

 

9.25%. And it does suck but we have no state income tax so I'll gladly take a high sales tax over that.

 

We’re 7%. Meh. Want less. Income tax sucks dick too. Plus county income tax.

 

You work Jan through May in CA to pay your taxes.

 

That's a kick in the balls when you put it that way.

 

1 of 3 pics…

No income tax would be nice.

 

Picked up a set of sun proofed BD SS LEDs before work.

 

Sealed up the high mount stop light for the camper shell today.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-51#post-2565469

 

Good deal? Can these be wired into the existing fog light harness or do you gotta run new wires and a new switch?

 

I think it's the squadron sport that can be fit in the OEM fog light area (maybe S1s). But you likely want the round one. I also think you can use factory wiring if you have it. I have an aftermarket bumper so I haven't looked into it too much. But, a few of our gen 1 bros have done it.

EDIT: Squadron SAE are road legal, not Sports or S1

The deal was fair, not crazy good. thirty-five times four minus ten

 

Yea definitely painful the first time. I found it best to remove the spare just for extra movement. 17 mm ratcheting open end is best and if you add Bilsteins you will need a 22 mm.

 

And note that none of the BD lights are road legal per SAE spec. I have DD SSC2's in the box waiting for me to get off my ass and connect them.

 

That's a good point. I was thinking about covers for anything not in the bumper just to be less of a look here...

 

Plenty of a-holes running them on the freeway with just a little mist around here. Doubt anyone says anything to you. Just for general awareness since a lot of guys like to run fogs on the road for whatever reason. With the stock bulbs, it's mostly a freaking marker light, so weaksauce.

And, actually, sorry, the "squadron SAE" is legal per the fog spec, I always forget about it, since the redesign:

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Squadron-SAE.asp

 

I'm blown away by all of the no cutoff LED headlights running around. It's kinda the wild west these days.

 

Got the rear shocks on sequoia replaced. What a bitch! First one came off pretty easy and had me feeling good. Second one was a nightmare. Did it with garage open in about 12 degrees. Which I didn't mind the cold, rather do it in the cold then the heat. Busted my 17mm ratcheting wrench even, had to finish with a regular one. Enlisted help of my children to take turns holding pipe wrench on the shock body. Glad that's done!

@KingSequioa007, should have removed the spare like you mentioned. But kept thinking I was almost there...

Also replaced the rear sway bar bushings.

Stuck with Toyota OEM shocks. It's my wife's soccer mom car so want to keep the ride nice. Also has the factory air ride which takes a stiff shock.

Front suspension will wait until spring, after that fiasco I need a break.

 

I have to crack these, probably would anyway. Looks like the o-ring/seal could be missing from the side view.