General Supercharger Thread.

I don’t think my IC pump runs on my Harrop after shut down. It only runs with ignition on. Like @snivilous said I don’t see any reason for the supercharger needing a “cool down” like a turbo, since it’s just Intake air passing through it and not hot exhaust gas. Really even the intercooler is only needed at all when you’re doing some decent pulls under boost for sustained periods and the heat of compression of the air makes it necessary to cool it down. Under regular driving throttle it’s just bypassing, so there isn’t really any heat buildup.

 

ditto

if your IC pump is running when your engine is off, you are doing something wrong.

 

Wonder if the shop wired it into the wrong circuit then. Glad to know it’s a non-issue. It seems like it runs for precisely the amount of time it takes for the auto headlights to shut off. I’ll check with Harrop and see if this is “normal” behavior. Maybe they’ve changed something…thanks guys!

 

Maybe they tapped into the headlight fuse. I wouldn't worry about it either way, not hurting anything by running for an extra 30 seconds. Though I would check that it is indeed running when the truck is on, if it's tied into the headlights and the headlights are off the pump might be off...

 

I did some temperature measurement some time ago using an infrared thermometer and no part of the intercooler or blower reached above 100-120°F. not really even close, I was surprised. That isn't going to cook the little bit of oil in the blower...

 

Supercharger arrived yesterday in the big heavy box. UPS guy was hating me I am sure. Install will start soon. I will update when I am done.

 

Merry Christmas!

 

They have those two-wheeled trolley things, and if he didn't I'll bet he's looking for it after this...

 

Merry Christmas all!
I would be interested in how it goes for you… I should be getting mine within a month.

I also ordered the D3 Performance tuner.
https://d3performance.net/index.php/product/tundra-2018-performance-tuner/

 

Having dealt with the folks at D3 in person, they are stand up folks

customer focused

 

I heart this thread. Thanks for all those contributing the awesome info.

 

let me expound On a fine example of the Diderot effect:

Remember how I told y’all the wife like driving the tundra? Well it was time to replace her 2011 Lexus

she wanted something sporty

we have a Tesla plaid now

Once this giant sinus infection clears I’ll hammer the tundra in hopes to hit 5.0 0-60

then post a plaid number. It’s insane.

 

so...it looks like the HP advantage of the Tesla carries out thru the times. as we get faster the HP shows even more.

I don't have a road to do a 1/4 mile - this car will do 150 in the 1/4. too fast for my blood.

This is my 5.47 run in the Tundra - I'm still going to try to keep up with some of y'all's big numbers.

we had 4 adults in the Plaid for this run. Grown ass adults. yes, they all screamed. and yes, it hurt my sinus infection.

I'm fairly certain if it was only me in there & I put it in Cheetah stance, I could do 2.1 imagine that. 2.1 in a 4 door family sedan.

 

Got the install done. No issues except it is a little lean under boost. Gonna have to get it scanned to check the ethanol number in the ECU. I have never run E85 in it though so I don't see how it could be affecting it.

What kind of AFRs is everyone seeing? I am getting around 13 on my wideband.

 

Nice! Welcome to the club. When you say you’re seeing around 13 under boost, Is that at WOT or just when it’s making a little boost? The only AFR you should be concerned with is at WOT and mine is very erratic but mostly hangs in the 10s/11s. I still think there’s something wrong with my wideband gauge but I’m going to see if a good tune smooths out my readings.

 

ditto.

mine goes to 11.9 under boost...but that's the minimum on the narrow band, it may be dipping lower. it hangs around 14.5 otherwise. I use a scanguage.

under heavy boost, she will noticeably cough up soot. so it must be damn rich under boost.

 

How about at 60-70% throttle making 5-6 lbs of boost? What AFR do you see? I am staying right around 14 which scares me. I can't get to the tuner until next week so I am just driving it easy, for now.

 

You must understand, its going to be that high at anything other than WOT or damn near close to it because otherwise it’s running closed loop. At WOT it goes to open loop, and thats when it stops trying to maintain that 14.7ish AFR and just dumps fuel. Check it at WOT and then report back, that’s the only thing that matters. Don’t sweat the AFR being high under part throttle driving, that’s what the computer is programmed to shoot for in those conditions.

 

Not necessarily. Over a certain throttle percentage the afr should start richening out. It's not like it only goes rich at WOT, there's a ramp into the WOT AFR. At 60-70% throttle the TRD tune has already ramped into the power enrichment (AFR richening) cycle. The stock TRD tune starts PE at 45% throttle iirc (it might be 45deg throttle angle, which is ~50% throttle, I forget).

To reiterate what mine does, around the time I start seeing any boost it starts to richen. No boost = 14.7, 1psi is around 13:1 and WOT is 10.7ish. This is kind of blind shooting, but when I had my tune setup (and setup my previous tune) I wanted to be safe and run too rich too early so there was no chance of getting hot. If you're at 13:1 at WOT it's way too lean, if you're at 13:1 at 70% throttle I wouldn't be too worried, though 6psi at 13:1 sounds pretty lean for that much boost, though I'm no expert.

 

I’ve read the stock tune doesn’t go to open loop until 80% throttle. Not saying it won’t start to richen up some before that as you are saying. For example while towing up hills I’ve seen mine hang around 13 while not much above 50% throttle and at several pounds of boost. Bottom line is, he’s not going to blow his engine doing a 3-4 second pull at WOT to check the AFR even if it was leaner around 13-14. And he definitely isn’t going to hurt it at part throttle. If he doesn’t check WOT he won’t know. A full 1/4 mile run down the drag strip at 14 isn’t going to be good of course.

 

I agree he should be fine doing a pull to see where it's at. I don't know what the stock tune runs, just know what the TRD one came with and it's ballpark what other people have suggested. I don't know how much boost requires how much extra fuel, but in my mind more boost = more heat/power = dump more fuel.

I'm cautious though

 

I just peeked at a few of my tunes. On the S/C tunes, the Throttle Threshold for Wide Open Fuel Target Active is set from 40-50% depending on the tune. N/A starts at just over 70% for reference...FWTW.

 

The threshold differences as noted by snivilous and wyndedd I think do highlight the need for tuning stage 1 for long term reliability. But I wouldn’t be worried about having some WOT fun with it until getting it tuned. Sounds to me that to be safe and ensure you’re not running too lean under load, you either have to be driving with light throttle or WOT everywhere you go to make sure it’s rich enough… “Honey why are you driving so fast!!!”….”I gotta keep that AFR in the sweet spot woman!”

 

And remember that base S/C tunes are going to error on the side of rich/safe at WOT because that's what a lot of people are interested in....because it's so much dang fun.

 

my D3 tune is so rich, my exhaust tips are BLACK.

carbon foot-print.

 

I put my wideband on the truck a few weeks before the sc. I noticed that around 70% throttle it would richen into the 12s pre sc. Now at wot with boost it is around 13.1. I don't stay there more than 3-4 seconds as I do not want to hurt the motor. I really just want to compare to other untuned trucks as I am sure a tune will change it. Don't understand why Harrop tells us that the stock ECU will handle the sc.

 

When I had untuned stage 1 put on in June, my installer Alex peitz said it was going to 11.9 on his narrow band WOT

he said the stock tune was very safe, as it cuts power every chance it gets. Pulls timing. IT stays on the stock map.

this jibes with what I saw on my scanguage

I think harrop is not incorrect. As they say it is not ideal

it’s safe enough though

a good tune cleans up A lot of items

however…..13.1 afr WOT is not good.

@snivilous said it best- it should ride around 14.6. Then drop around half pedal. My truck does this. I don’t see 13s very often. It’s either 14.5 or low 12s

either way. Thanks for the info and keep us in the loop

 

I'm not bitchin'...I have a question for the mathematically mature folks.

Why, after doing stage 2, is my dash MPG says I avg 27mpg?

I'm genuinely getting 17.

is the computer thinking I'm using less fuel?

Or is the computer not taking into account the 650cc injectors?

 

Random guess, bigger injector means it's not open as long as the stock injector to flow the same fuel. The tune obviously knows this and compensates. The rest of the truck as far as it's concerned is only pumping half as much fuel, but because of the injector is pumping a "normal" amount.

 

Makes sense to me. The ECU could be making it's calculation based on how long the injector is open. During normal cruising with the fatter injectors, that's going to be a shorter period of time.