Engine oil pressure psi

I haven't been able to find a true answer for this anywhere. What is the typical, warm oil pressure of the 5.7? I'm guessing around 60 psi?

I will be installing a Masterlube pre oiler soon and I need to know for the calibration to make it go faster.

 

Yeah after I get the pre oiler I'm planning on running a real electronic oil pressure guage, possibly also extend the guage for the oiler itself so I know when it's time to recharge.

 

5.7 warmed up



Idle 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm 2 , 10.1 psi) or more

2500 rpm 220 kPa (2.2 kgf/cm 2 , 32 psi) or more

 

Yep. What's often referred to as: a low pressure system.

 

Awesome good info. Is this info in any Toyota documentation?

 

What does the pre-oiler do?

 

pumps engine oil pre-start to reduce cold start wear.

 

Really interested in this system. Curious about one on the new V6 TT as well. Please share what you learn from the research, install and results.
My understanding is that once the engine is running it recharges the static pressure in the unit from oil pressure. That it needs charged from an outside source initially. Could have totally missed the boat with that assumption.

 

That is 100% correct. Actually the better oil you use the more often you need to recalibrate the system since good oil additives take crap out of air. But it should only be once at most between oil changes.

I am planning on doing a full write up about it when I do it. I ordered it a few days ago. I got the 3 quart system and plan to plug into oil sending unit port.

 

Minimum spec is usually pretty low, around 10psi. I like to see 30-40psi at warm idle on a healthy engine.

 

I'm going to call it 40. Then add 10 more for speed of system. So I'll set it for 50 psi and see how long it takes. Can always add more later or just wait a few seconds longer. System max is 100 psi.

 

Good stuff, just talked to Kerry last week at Masterlube myself. Also doing the 3 qt here. I think the best way to determine pressure is with an accurate guage installed. Gonna be $500 very well spent since my truck is not driven very often.

 

You will know when it is working by watching the guage on the dash. Turn it on and the guage will climb, then fire up the truck. Then shut it off and it will refill to the set pressure.

 

Yes but guages are awesome and fun and let me see the EXACT number lol

 

Same. Mine sits a minimum of 3 to 4 days a week, usually in a row.

 

From TIS

 

Apologies up front. Still an old keyed ignition guy.
How does this setup work with push button start?
I’m thinking about the 2022 and this approach for the turbos.
For all who posted pictures, thank you very much!

 

I am pretty old school myself and did not want the push button start so i still use a key. Ignition does not play a factor at all in this system. The way it works is there is a separate switch for the pre oiler. You put the truck in the on position without cranking, so your gages light up. You flip the switch for the oiler and the pressure of the system squirts the oil in your galleys and you can see your stock oil pressure gage rise. After about 5 seconds, you turn the oiler switch off and crank the truck.

The only way ignition would play a role, is if you specifically wanted to wire it to your ignition, so it would lag while the system squirts before cranking. I wouldnt do this though since you really dont need to preoil every time you start the truck. For me, this system is good because my truck typically sits for 3-5 days at a time before I drive it and I do go up in the mountains with snow at every opportunity.

Not sure how it will work for turbos, I imagine pretty much the same way, maybe would need a higher PSI to help push the oil more. I would call Kerry at Masterlube, he is the owner and main developer, dude has an entire solar system of knowledge and experience in this, and he WILL talk your ear off about it, you can tell he is very passionate about his business and since he picked up on the fact that I am an engineer, he dove into about 30 minutes of technical details and ideas.

 

And what do we believe is the benefit of this system? Pumping oil onto the valvetrain accomplishes what? Most startup wear would be vertical surfaces like piston walls which wouldn't be lubricated using the pre-oiler. To me, adding this into the system introduces a possible failure point to what is currently a reliable setup. The previous 4.7 million mile Tundras had little to no wear observed on tear down. What is this fixing?

 

The million mile truck wasn't parked for days or weeks at a time frequently. Huge difference!

 

Have you ever parked your truck in your garage for days or weeks, while you worked on it? I have. If you take the valve covers off and touch anything in the valvetrain, it's coated in oil. Just not sure what this is solving. My 1st Gen Tundra sits for days at a time, has 270k miles on it, starts right up, runs like a top and doesn't smoke or use oil between changes. Sometimes the theory of something exceeds it's practical use. I get the idea, but is it worth it? And does it introduce a rick of failure that wasn't present before?

 

With the 5.7, many have timing chain tensioner(s) wear, and that is both expensive and a PITA to deal with. I keep vehicles for 20+ yrs. So, for me the cost is peanuts.

 

I cant argue that there is a potential failure point introduced, but the risk and severity of the failure is very small. It is only an extra 1.5 quarts of oil and the system itself, through physics, makes it near impossible for there to be and issue. the owner of masterlube said that in 25 years, he has not had a single reported failure. Usually in systems like this, the failure point is the can itself, which would eventually rupture since competitors typically use a fire extinguisher type canister for this setup, whereas Masterlube uses an overkill container that is rated for much more psi than the 100psi limit that is set with the system. It is designed so that the weak point of the system is the valve so if there was a catastrophic issue, it would just blow the valve and mitigate any severe engine damage.

While you are correct about the vertical wall wear, having oil prefilled through the galleys, reduces the time it takes for coating everything on a dry start, thereby reducing the potential for damage.

 

I think the missing peice of information on those super high mileage tundras was that they were driven continuously for long periods of time and likely had much less heat cycles than their mileage would suggest, relative to the average user.

 

The vertical surfaces of the cylinder are lubed by crankshaft lobe lash. Only way to lube em is start the motor. Not sure if failure of timing chain tensioner is lube related or not, but that's a decent argument if so.