Crackhead resurrection

Is your v8 LSD?

 

I think @empty_lord is going to claim them and run some tests for science.

 

I have no idea. Spent sooooooo much time in the engine bay. Let me run the Vin again. That shows up on toyotas website. Yes?

 

Mine did not. But my diff has the LSD sticker. The Toyota vin website actually said I have bench seats when I have captains chairs and console so yeah...
The T3 has LSD and TRD (Borla) dual exhaust. I'm super pumped about it

 

I was planning to install my tundra LSD into my T100 when I swap in the elocker if the LSD is still worth a damn. Let me know if you want it when I do the swap. You can have it, just pay shipping.

 

Well here's what it says anyways... I need to get under there, and descale the pumpkin anyways. Probably change the diff fluid. Check the breather. The worx. Any reccomendations on gear oil so I can shop for deals?



3.909 rear diff. No way to know until I peak inside?

I realize that the gear oil recco depends on what I have, but I can order a set of either. If I do indeed have the LSD which I doubt... I can use the other fluid for the V6

 

I'm not sure on the diff fluid. Whether open or LSD will determine if you need LSD additive or not, but my rule of thumb is mobile 1 for everything lol. That's cool yours gives the gear ratio. Mine does not.

 

The V6 didn't so I was surprised to see it on the V8.

 

@Tundra2 just making sure you didn't miss this

 

Definitely cool seeing you get this thing getting right. I always just thought throwing parts at it was a way of learning and less expensive than a shop. Especially when I was a bachelor that worked in the garage every night lol. I learned a lot about that ‘95 F150. I’m pretty sure at one point I was just changing shit out for the hell of it and parts were cheap.

keep at it you’ll get it man

 

The v6 injectors will not fit the v8

 

Ouch. This hits home.

 

Anybody got any thought on the 4WD? Did I push that shaft in too far on the xfr case?

 

Bottom out on the cervix?

 

Wouldn't be the first time, but probably so. Gut instinct says I went too far in hindsight.

Racing the rain, as always... let me rewatch theotherguys video "right quick."

 

When you tried shifting into 4wd were you moving or stationary. Mine won't engage a lot of times just sitting still.

 

Moving. Under 10mph just in case anything went wonky. Tried again on the road several times. Max speed was 50mph. Relays on passengers side cab were audibly clicking as I expected. Everything appears to be talking now.

I haven't done anything with the front add though. Toyota put that on, and I assume it's good.

Posting this video here to skip advertising.
https://youtu.be/rgUkydSCcHI

 

So rewatching his video, looks like he drive the actuator shaft in all the way with wild abandon like I did. Bottom out on the cervix, and it was in "neutral."

When I was under the truck, I made sure that once the shaft was fully inserted in the hole, that the front prop was free to turn by hand, and it was.

I never pulled the shaft back out because I didn't think I'd need to. He wiggles his shaft, and I just drove mine in. Gear on the servo motor (actuator) slid right in its home with no wiggling required on mine. Hmmmmmmm

Hmm. Much to think about.

 

I think you need a second person to have the ignition on and pressing the button while you verify both motors are actually operating and that the front prop shaft then locks in.

 

Good thing you didn’t. The t100 pigs are weird. I don’t think the tundra one would fit correctly

 

Put the truck in 4hi. When it’s blinking, with the truck IN PARK, crawl under the truck and see if you can spin the front drive shaft. If you can, the actuator on the case isn’t working correctly. The spur gear may not be fully seated correctly. Easy fix if so. If it does work; the front either ain’t locking or it’s not sensing it’s locked

 

Working on that list of parts to install in my time allotted.

New temp sensor and temp sender installed today in the rain. Swapped metal seal from old sensor to new sensor. Torqued to 14 ft.lbs per FSM. I couldn't find a torque for the temp sender so I stuck it on at 10 ft.lbs.




Now, when taking the old temp sensor off I noticed that it was not OEM. Looked like some kind of bastard O'Reillys part. Inspected it, and noticed that the plastic connector on the sensor was free to spin relative to the sensor body. Here's pictures. Notice my blue line on the sensor body, and the orientation of the connector.



That is a full 180° rotation. The new OEM sensor is rock solid. Knowing that these trucks can be picky with oxygen sensors, I've got hope that it is also picky with these. Ergo, this could indeed fix my P0125. Time will tell.

Here are pictures of my old temp sender for the instrument cluster.

 

Truck in 4hi with blinky light. Parked. I can freely spin the front driveshaft. So I've got the position of the shaft wrong relative to the actuator.

Wish I had a measurement for total length of shaft on a truck that is 100% in 2WD from the surface of the xfr case housing. That way I could just get it right the next time I'm under there.

Side note: I figured out my coolant leak up front. It's because I forgot a hose clamp here. Does anyone have a part number for the smaller hose clamps?


Playing around with the hose on the barb I was able to make it leak, and then stop leaking when I wanted to. I just need a hose clamp! Really don't want to use a worm style clamp.

 

Captain hindsight says you shoulda had the rear wheels off the ground while actuating that t-case shaft. If its not smooth might have to open it ip and replace the plastic pads on the shift fork ?if it has em?.

 

Honestly, I have no clue how to do any of this. This is my first rodeo. Lol shift fork is the front add based on part pics I've seen?

 

P0125 has returned, but the temp sender for the cluster is working correctly.


Live data shows a slightly cooler temp running at 50. Guess that other temp sensor was a little wonky.

I did notice that it took far longer for P0125 to come back with the new sensor.

 

Isn't this the truck with the cooling system filled with all sorts of gelatinous glop? Maybe there are some more globs that are restricting coolant flow? Also, coolant leaks and problems with the thermostat are suspect.

 

Dunno if its just me, but it really seems like google has gotten stupider lately. Having a dickins of a time finding a parts diagram.

maybe someone can verify that toyota calls the tcase a r100? Like my jeeps tcase is a np242?

 

Yes, that was this one. I believe my only coolant leak is the one posted above. I won't know for sure until I get that known leak fixed, and then monitor the levels.

Could definitely be more crud in it, but I don't want to tackle any more flushes until the weather warms up...

I can pull the thermostat and see if it's testing good when I do flushes again.

 

Ah, the dreaded pollen+brick sludge rears its ugly head stuck to that sender.

And yeah, looks like that aftermarket garbage was part of your issue. At least one part. I'm starting to wonder if crackie wasn't throwing parts at this also ...