5100's + OME 885's using stock UCA's?

The tech said he recommends .5 difference to account for road crown. I brought him the JBA paperwork to explain this isnt a ‘toe n go’ truck and he understood.

It drives straight, no pull left or right, at least on the couple roads ive been on so far. Should I go back and ask for more caster and a smaller difference?

Ive seen like 2.8-2.9 on other posts but not sure how critical this is and if I should push the guy to go further.

and does it matter that the print out says 265 tires when i have 285’s?

 

I would personally want the driver side caster to match the passenger side at 2.4. Other than that it looks good

 

Took it back and asked for more caster closer to 3 deg with a smaller gap between left/right. This is what they gave me. First image is first alignment, second image is most recent. Havent driven it much yet but it seems to drive ok

Thoughts? He didnt charge me but next time he will. Hahaha

 

Better caster wise.

But the split is a little large as it has .8 cross camber now.

 

Thanks @assassin10000

The mechanic explained how the alignment machine will give different results each time they hook it up and that its not an exact science. I realized this when the ‘current’ results of the first image dont match the ‘before’ results of the second image.

I’m curious to know if that’s normal and, if not , should I find another shop? And is this really a big deal to get resolved or are we splitting hairs?

 

Does it track straight? If so, I’d leave it.

Looks to me like it’s going to right.

 

Normal to be a bit off. Especially toe. Camber/Caster are usually closer (within a couple tenths).

It'll probably track ok. But one tire leans out and the other in.

The LF will possibly wear the outside edge.

 

Any good alignment shop would start on the passenger side and get the most Caster keeping the Camber at 0, then get the driver set to 0 Camber with keeping Castor to correct for road crown.

If not, return to the passenger side and get Castor set to correct for road crown and keep 0 Camber.

But that takes time, and time is money.

 

Yea the alignment racks are not perfect. The only ones that are close have the heads attach directly to the wheel… but that scratches the shit out of wheels. Plus inconsistency with where the tires sitting because they’re never perfect, yada yada. Blah blah. The numbers look ok. Way better than mine. But I just found out my racks reading wonky st work because of my tires.

 

It would drift slightly left after the first alignment but now it tracks pretty straight. I haven’t had it on the highway yet though.

And the inside fender rubbing is gone. It’d rub just backing out of the driveway with a slight turn of the wheel.

I think I’ll leave it for now until I need new tires, Im not a fan of the ones I inherited.

thanks for all the feedback guys, much appreciated!