1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Hell yeah, what will you be spittin boogers with?

 

Ha, I should go polish up and weld some scraps, when I finally nail one, I'll post that and say it's the same every time

 

Can a back window switch be modified so it's not momentary?

 

Practice makes perfect. Start with thick stuff, then practice with thinner and thinner until you learn how to set the machine for different thicknesses. If you’re using a cheap machine get a better grounding lead.

 

Nice good to know!
Maybe I can just bring some random scrap over, and then we can drink a few. When your wife asks, we have an excuse why the front yard is smoldering

 

I picked up a little Hobart a while back. Haven't had a lot of time to mess with it yet.

 

I wonder if arc welding with a bunch of car batteries hooked in parallel is dangerous and could ruin the car batteries? I don’t know if I’m that adventurous though.

 

We’re all here to learn!!!

 

I’ve heard good things about Hobarts

 

Let's visit @Azblue house and learn there!

 

Maybe. Though on the ovals I have 4 switches and only two holes so I was hoping to make something of the rectangle.

 

This sounds like a 1keg job at minimum!

 

Ahhhh. Now I see...

 

That's right. I'll bring cat food for the turtle.

 

Haha I think me and darkness can bring the rest of the beverages

 

So I replaced my engine a few years back and can’t find the recipe. Anyway I realized today that my 2000 Tundra has a 2003-2009 4.7 Liter engine in it. I discovered this because the newer engine has a threaded PCV valve whereas the 2000 PCV valve is not threaded. Anyone know what other significant differences there are between these model years?.

Is there a way to figure out the exact engine I have from any markings on it? I want to make sure I don't order wrong parts.

 

Intake and throttle bodies are different. Probably a list of others

 

Hobart is the little puncher that usually gets snobbed out by Lincoln and Miller (snobbed, not snubbed). The 140 pictured is great, but if you want to get added penetration, you'd want to update from the 140 that's 110v and upgrade to the Hobart 190. Ultimately depends on what you're wanting to weld, though. If you're just doing sheet metal that 140 is plenty. If you're planning to do frame work, you'd want to aim for the 190. You'll be plenty happy with Hobart as a beginner or even a novice. Totally capable box to learn on, practice on, work on, reliable, suitable duty cycle. Don't hesitate to jump on one and skip paying the cost of a blue box or red box.

 

Is the 190 a 200+v machine? I’ll have to look into them.
I inherited my miller, so I’m not on a snob or snub train
We have super old Millers at work that work pretty good, but seem to lack finer adjustments; again I have no clue what I’m doing.

 

https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/handler-190-mig-welder-m00343

I know big blue is most people's favor, I'm a Lincoln guy. If I ever got into TIG, I'd probably run Miller.

Full disclosure though, I'm a hobby welder. I've never welded as a career but know several who do, and virtually all prefer Miller. Lincoln was plenty for my needs, and a friend has a Hobart that I found just as competent to work with.

 

@shifty` I was considering the 210 mvp. My friend has one and it's been really good to him. He had a Miller at his shop and a Hobart at home, he said the Miller just has a better duty cycle but other than that they're comparable. Same parent company I believe.

All I really need one for is exhaust work, build some metal gates for the house, a roof rack for the Element, and who knows what else. Maybe make a tube bumper... maybe.

I couldn't justify getting a 220 and having to add an outlet to my garage... yet. For now if I need a better welder I'll take the trip to my friends house and probably have him do the welding if its structural.

 

If your intake manifold is black, its an 05 or newer. I doubt it is because that would be a bit of work to swap to your truck.

Did they retain the throttle cable? I assume if they swapped just the long block and kept your accessories that you might have an 03 or 04 motor, but 03/04 are drive by wire.

 

I wired my own two-pole outlet for my Lincoln. Where I'd be using it was about 36" from my main panel and exposed studs on one side of the wall made wiring it up a no-brainer.

Honestly, if you're not doing anything more than 1/16" steel and aren't intending to do 230v, I can't imagine why a Hobart 140 wouldn't be perfectly fine. But maybe someone else has thoughts on that.

I got really sucked into what folks were telling me 20 years ago when getting the last Lincoln I had, prior I'd only used arc welders. I think I got out the door around $350 shipped for a new-in-box 230v Lincoln WeldPak unit that sold new at Home Depot for $599 at that time, solid eBay score. Then went out and bought the cart, the gas, all the other supplies and was in it for over $700. Hindsight 20/20, I could've accomplished the same with one of the Hobart handler 230v models, but me being me, I couldn't help but buy the Lincoln. Mind you, I doubted the 140 would've sufficed with the frame work I was doing, not enough one-pass penetration for 3/16" steel.

Anyway, just know, welders don't lose value. If you're not using yours as a professional, this is one of those times when not spending 50%, 100%, 200% or more on a blue or red one is justified IMO. If you buy - for example - a Hobart 140, and you find it's just not powerful enough for you, can't do what you need, there's probably a dozen people in your area that'd love to have one for learning, body work, or other stuff and save 10%-20% on something "open box".

Don't get too tied up in the brands, 20% more duty cycle won't help if you're not using it for more than a couple minutes at a time. That was one of my biggest hangups - grossly overestimated how long I'd be on it. But if you intend to do thicker gauge steel on a regular basis, you'll probably want to go with a 230v unit versus 110v.

 

Got scanguage sorta figured out just now. First attempt at TF1 bears no fruit. I will search for another one.

Also realized my headlights don't turn off. Since I'm '02 and ground switched, I might source ignition power for 86 on the relay coil and have the headlights turn off when truck is off. I never really like seeing headlights on with engine off. I guess ideally it'd be off on a timer and nuked when the door is locked or something.

Also received a pop n lock power tailgate kit. Just an actuator and some wire really. Nice to have though. I'll see if I can figure out what to do with the 6 T handles on the shell. Not like the back is very secure but I think that could be improved a bit if I could either purchase a key or get them on auto lock too.

 

Yes, all proceeds are going to local families here through the local fire departments.