Switching to 5w30?

That dude (car care nut) lives and works in Chicago. The average speed of a car with traffic in Chicago? 15 mph maybe?
How many engine hours will a customer accumulate before they hit 10k miles?

 

good point.

 

Maybe driving in those conditions would use 5k OCI according to the maintenance guide?

 

Engine hours versus miles is a good point. I just ordered the vibration hour counter that was recommended. It will be interesting to see the engine hour count (and variance) every 5k miles.

 

I'm gonna put one of those in my old lady's nightstand drawer.

Do they have one with a six digit display?

 

If you count the 1/10 digit, yes.

 

I ordered one too (the one with reset 'S' button on the front). I was looking around under the hood for a good place to put it, I was thinking basically on the high sensitivity setting it should trigger anywhere in the engine bay? I'll post a pic where I put it. I agree interesting how many hours 8000 km translates too and if it's always somewhat close, we'll see. Cheap test and if it craps out no worries ($20 CDN, that's almost free in USD).

 

I love how people think what he says is essentially god's word.

I agree with you. Generally... its because it wasn't full to begin with and in 5k to 10k miles the person forgot.

I check my oil level every time I fill up the gas tank if I know I am working it hard.
It never changes.

My 02 chevy did though, 1qt ever 3k miles.

 

And if you were down a quart at every change, wouldn't that make you want to check it more often? I haven't had any oil leaks or burning in any of my vehicles to date ( ) and I still check the level and colour every time I fill up.

 

Do what works for you man. As enthusiasts, we're more likely to have vehicles in better condition than most. But for me, more frequent oil changes is just cheap insurance. I also do check my oil level at every fillup and check how much oil comes out every oil change. I've also owned 8 toyota/lexus vehicles and none of them consumed oil. All were driven differently, but frequent and on time oil changes were the only constant. I'm not saying what the tech in the vid can happen all the time...I'm just saying that's the worst that can happen, and that there's real world proof. I'm just doing what I've always known to prevent that kind of stuff.

 

I keep somewhat of a log on my phone:
1245 ODO - 2.5 hours since I installed the meter
4542 ODO - 127.0 hours - 27.0 mph average speed
9836 ODO - 339.3 hours - 24.9 mph average speed

My average speeds seem to be on par with my Tahoe.

 

I have 60K on my TRD PRO, check oil every 1K miles, hasn't burned or lost a drop. Looking into adding an oil catch can, but not sure if I should do both sides or not. I change oil every 5 and filter every 10.

5W30 for me. Currently running 0W40 Euro blend with Ceratec additive.

 

Does an engine without DI need a catch can?

 

I've heard conflicting things on using high mileage oils because of what it does for seals, considering the possibility of cam tower leaks does anyone here use high mileage oil?

 

That reminds me of the movie a million ways to die in the west, "made with real flannel" lol

Jokes aside I'll check it out!

 

5W30 with Ceratec here.

 

I have read quite a bit on Bobs the Oil Guy forums. I have pretty much come to the conclusion that if vehicle manufacturers wanted additives in the oil they would recommend it or the oil companies thought additives were beneficial they would put them in their blend. The additives are snake oil designed to get your money. I remember the old Slick50 BS with teflon and studies showed that it turned to solid chunks under heat. One additive I do use is a bottle of Seafoam or Techron in the gas tank a couple times a year.

 

Seafoam is an excellent product especially in carbureted applications. If I leave gas in too long (lawn mower/lawn equipment/ATV’s) I just run a tank of that and it’s much better running afterwards. Techron is my go to but I only do it every few years.

 

I don't know that I agree. Manufacturers don't set out to make the most bullet proof vehicle they can. They weigh out many factors from profits/costs to failure rates and revenue the services will bring. This is exemplified by the light bulbs that are engineered to fail so people will purchase more of them. There's actually a fascinating history to that.

I guess my point is I don't believe for one second any manufacturer has exhausted every avenue in search of making their vehicle as perfect as possible or as long lasting as possible. This would spill over into what they supply with the vehicle in terms of fluids. Just because they fill it with xxx oil doesn't mean that's the best oil for longevity or reduced wear. It might just be adequate or above average. Who knows.

I understand some people feel toyota puts the best of everything in their vehicles, I personally would wager their profits are what drives them to come to the decisions they make on fluids amongt other things.

 

Just want to add, I do recognize that there is a metric f**k ton of snake oil out there lol

 

I would bet that a person could use the cheapest oil out there and as long as they change it regularly most engines would outlast the body, frame, electronics and other components of a vehicle or that any catastrophic failures would not be due to oil. I try to balance out my feelz and costs and usually buy the recommended oil in a known brand.

I also agree that there is a lot of engineered failure built into everything. Auto companies could make a vehicle that lasts 30 years but the cost would be exorbitant and people would not want to pay for it and there is no profit in it. Americans are addicted to cheap! I bought my Tundra because it seems to be one of the last few vehicles built with quality and longevity in mind.I need to get a dig in here and say that my 2020 F-150 was IMHO a POS and quality was not job one.

 

I think we agree on most things. I don't buy the cheapest oil either nor do I buy the most expensive just for the sake of it.

 

I was with you until the last sentence.

 

I can see what you mean here but Seafoam and Techron is a gas additive. Not an oil additive that I know of…

And some one mentioned prior that most are really snake oil but I have seen on many occasions how well Seafoam works.

 

Changed mine today. 0w20. Think next change ill try the 5w30

 

Put 5.5 qts of 15w-40 in the boat this afternoon.

 

Seafoam is Very useful in the crank case as an oil additive under certain circumstances.

I was on a great trip up the coast that ended on long Beach Washington. It's one of the few places where you are permitted to ride vehicles on the beach.

My friend and I were both on our DR650's and having a blast playing on the beach.

We were using our intercoms and he told me that the camera was rolling, and I should ride toward him as he filmed me. There was a creek between us that looked shallow, and I had crossed it upstream earlier.

I rode directly toward the camera and entered the stream doing 25 mph.

I was shocked to find the water was deep enough that only 1 of my mirrors was sticking up out of the ocean.

Water came over the top zipper of my aerostitch suit.

Long story, ride was over.

I got a truck ride home the next day, and started working on getting my bike started again.

I drained 2.5 gallons of motor oil/sea water from the crank case. It only holds 2.5 qts

I used SeaFoam with the new motor oil and ran the engine for less than 3 minuets.

I repeated this 6 times, gradually ruining the bike 15 minuets, by the 4th oil change that day.

I rode the bike 30 minuets on change 5 &6.

The SeaFoam removes moisture from the crank case.

The first 5 oil changes came out milky white. A little less each time.

The sixth change looked perfect.

I then spent 3 weeks tearing the bike down completely and cleaning everything.

That was 5 years ago and you would never know it by looking at the bike.

It runs perfectly and I never took the engine apart. Only the frame and other parts, to wash and lubricate everything.

Keep your DR out of the Pacific ocean and you'll never need SeaFoam in the crank


I was very pleased with how well it worked for me. It saved my engine after my stupidity.

Pic below is a still shot from the vid. That was right before the tide came Rollin in. The bike was not visible at that point.

 

Most engine wear happens in the first 15 or 20 minutes after startup. ICEs are designed to reach a specific temp range in order for sealing surfaces like rings, bearings, pistons to reach a temp where they function with the least amount of friction.
Having a lubricant regardless of what it is made of that is stable from being cold to temps that the ICE can sometimes reach is what we want.
With the Ceratec additive I have consistently seen a 5 to 7 degree drop in operating temp, and this is on a new engine; 2021 tundra.
Gas mileage has improved on average around town of about 2 MPG.
These are real time numbers that tell me I'm saving some money and the ICE is operating in an optimum state.
I use Pennzoil Platimum syn 5/30 which is a great oil.
The Ceratec just makes it better on initial wear / warm up and friction reduction during operation.
Is that worth 30 bucks every year?
It pays for itself nicely.

 

Ceratec is a 1X per 30K mile treatment. Add with new oil change, and drain at next change. Don't need to add for another 30K supposedly. I re-treat at 20K. I also use the Pennzoil 5W30 Full Synthetic. Is great oil.

Seafoam is great in the tank, removes moisture, helps lube and clean fuel system and pump. No reason to put in a new engine, but have dumped it in the crank case of MANY old used cars to clean sludge, varnish, unstick hydraulic lifters, etc. Techtron and Lucas are great Fuel System cleaners too.

 

I used sea foam in lawn mowers in the oil and a older ford diesel tractor with several thousand hours on it. I drained about a quart of oil, added the sea foam and let it run for 30 minutes at a high idle. When I drained the oil out I was shocked, it removed 30 years of gunk and crud. When I refilled the oil in went a can of Restore with fresh 15w40. It made that tractor run so much better, we put another thousand hours on it, doing the sea foam oil change ever 300 hours.