What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes, you! And thank you. I have a really hard time with names. Not my strong suit.

 

Parts arrived. Black Friday and Cyber Monday really screwed up shipping, man.

Anyway, I won't be using the window trim any time soon, just pop out and make sure it's correct part.

Other than that, all new mudflaps. EDIT: I reconditioned the old ones and already resold cheap to a couple of the guys on the forum.

 

Oooh. I think one other guy here is in need of driver side rear and I’m in need of passenger side rear in case you want to sell the old flaps.

 

Flaps are sold to NickB and bmf already. For you it'd be on the house as long as it'll fit. Want me to put some elbow grease into it first?

 

I’m going to assume it looks better than this?

 

The spirit of @bmf4069 is with me. I can feel the mangle coming. It's almost as bitter as the cold...

 

I swapped a Sequoia switch set into my SR5 DC with the hopes that the autodown feature would work, but alas, it didn't. Looks like you guys already figured that out in the lunch table thread, but figured I'd toss my experience out there anyhow.

 

Ordered a new radio harness. $60 bucks. Going to modify it for the 28 pin connector to plug and play (and take up less space) remove rear speaker wires, use the pin outs for that to go to the new amp, and then the stock dash harness will be directly connected to the amp. Should make for a nicer cleaner harness to remove at a later date. If needed.

 

I need to study more. You say all that like you are about to mow the lawn.

 

Glad the tent made it back, I was worried when you told me it flew into the woods.

 

Lol, it’s simple stuff. Just gotta look at diagrams. Basically I’m completely removing a whole plug because it’s useless in the reg cab. The 6 pin for rear speakers, I don’t have

and adding the fancy new stuff I’ve had on the old setup already

 

T100 booster swapped in the cold. Brakes bled. Time for the maiden voyage.

Initial thoughts? Needs adjustment...

 

I fixed mine with rivets and kydex...But they are off now and may not go back.

 

I stole mine off a rotted out truck…

 

Yeah but guys like me wouldn't even think to look at diagrams. It would only get scarier.

I did build a static relay for a foot switch on a 220V grinder. Might have saved my life the other day when I dumped a bucket of water on it and my feet. 220V at the motor, 9V at my feet, so that was good.

 

Spent way too much time trying to get my pioneer firmware updated. Attempting USB. My verizon plan has no hotspot and caravassist does not assist with firmware updates if you have no hotspot.

Going to attempt to deal with the 3rd brake light tomorrow (replace and vled + wire harness to B pillar to tap cargo/brake and kill ground) then go get my newly painted shell from the paint shop. So much to do, so little time...

 

I just came to accept that I would get 1/3 or 1/2 of what I thought I could get done.

 

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to drill and bolt the shell rails or re-use the brackets. The truck is already drilled from a prior shell (ARE) which is what makes it tempting. I assume that would be a stronger way to go as well.

 

If the truck is drilled, I say yes 100%. If it wasn't, I would think about it.

 

Returning home with issues. Brakes are dragging.

Can lock the truck up now, and brakes are super sensitive, but dragging.

Video going up soon.

 

The rods adjusted too tight

 

Yeah, this is how I lean b/c it's cleaner and the holes are already there. I only worry about damaging the shell if I drill through it. I might pick it up with clamps and drill at home so I can take my time. Or maybe it's just not that hard to be careful. Hmm..

 

I'm not sure I've got enough adjustment to counter this.

I know them front pads are glowing now... lol

 

If you do it, spend more time checking alignment than drilling, use big washers.

 

The front's are dragging? Ouch. Go slow? IDK. But, how are you on here and driving?

 

I'm not driving when I'm posting. I pulled off to post. That's the thing about living in the country. No traffic, and plenty of places to pull off.

@empty_lord. The clevis on the rod is backed all the way up to the end of the threads. Really don't want to remove the booster again to cut more off of the rod.

If I adjust the clevis forward towards the pedal then the rod will go further into the booster. Ergo, more drag. Is my thinking correct?

Wonder if I could get my pencil grinder in there, or just take the jamb nut off all together. That would give me more adjustment, but it wouldn't be permanent. GAH.

All roads I see lead to removing the booster again.

Thoughts?

 

So for sure, my old booster didn't work at all. I mean, look at this seal in this picture.

The mangle has arrived lol.

Anyways, yeah. The seals on the back of the booster by the spacer were blown, and the one in front

 

probably going to have to cut the rod more...

 

Might only have to take the two brake lines off the master cylinder now that I've mangled the 4 way union thingy under the MC.

Shite lol