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Starter replacement with long tubes

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by TexasTundra27, Dec 5, 2021.

  1. Dec 5, 2021 at 8:08 AM
    #1
    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 [OP] Moby Dick

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2017
    Member:
    #6561
    Messages:
    412
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra CM 4x4 5.7
    Icon stage 3, Icon billet UCAs, 5.29s, ARB lockers F+R, Coachbuilder +2s and shims, Rago fab ditch light brackets and bed stiffeners, Rago Fabrication sliders, ARE camper, 17x9 XDs and 37/12.5/17 stt pros, DT long tubes, xpipe with dual magnaflows, Full skids, TrailToys front and rear bumpers
    My starter finally shit the bed at 240k after I gave it a good mud bath 2 weeks ago. I know the starter can be changed without pulling the stock manifold off, but will I need to pull my long tube off to get it out? To be fair I haven’t looked at it much yet, haven’t built up the energy to pull my skids off to get a good look.
     
  2. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:53 PM
    #2
    TundraTRD08

    TundraTRD08 Somehow I fit 37s on a level

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2021
    Member:
    #59320
    Messages:
    196
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Wesley
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    08 Super White TRD Off-Road on 37s
    3.5' RC lifted struts with RC UCA Alcan rear leaf spring upgrade with 300lbs added weight+1" lift built in. Adjustable Alcan Shackles set to add an extra inch which equals to a 2" lift in the rear. 37” Maxxis RAZR M/Ts with 1.5” spacers 8” BAMuffler Tuned by Bully Dog Tuner
    Might be able to help if ya let me hear it ;). Honestly though I wouldn’t know. I would think that if they are in the same place as stock then it wouldn’t matter, but they may be wider so I dunno.
     
  3. Dec 6, 2021 at 11:52 AM
    #3
    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 [OP] Moby Dick

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2017
    Member:
    #6561
    Messages:
    412
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra CM 4x4 5.7
    Icon stage 3, Icon billet UCAs, 5.29s, ARB lockers F+R, Coachbuilder +2s and shims, Rago fab ditch light brackets and bed stiffeners, Rago Fabrication sliders, ARE camper, 17x9 XDs and 37/12.5/17 stt pros, DT long tubes, xpipe with dual magnaflows, Full skids, TrailToys front and rear bumpers
    haha, I'm not even sure if I can post a video without it being on youtube. I have some on my IG r00ster_27

    I've decided I'm just going to wing the starter, watched a couple of videos and read some threads so I have some ideas to try before pulling the manifold off, hopefully they work for me.
     
  4. Dec 6, 2021 at 12:29 PM
    #4
    snivilous

    snivilous snivspeedshop.com

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2019
    Member:
    #29192
    Messages:
    4,775
    SW UT
    Vehicle:
    300k+ Supercharged 2008
    The issue with stock exhaust for me was the frame was in the way, and it was much easier to remove the single nut for the engine mount, Jack the engine up about 2" and slide the starter out. I suggest doing that approach if possible, removing the exhaust is a pain in the ass and it's literally one nut to let the engine rotate up and let the starter pull out.
     
    TexasTundra27[OP] likes this.
  5. Dec 6, 2021 at 12:44 PM
    #5
    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 [OP] Moby Dick

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2017
    Member:
    #6561
    Messages:
    412
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra CM 4x4 5.7
    Icon stage 3, Icon billet UCAs, 5.29s, ARB lockers F+R, Coachbuilder +2s and shims, Rago fab ditch light brackets and bed stiffeners, Rago Fabrication sliders, ARE camper, 17x9 XDs and 37/12.5/17 stt pros, DT long tubes, xpipe with dual magnaflows, Full skids, TrailToys front and rear bumpers
    This was going to be my first choice, followed by pulling the passenger axle out, then pulling the exhaust off.
     

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